Hey guys,I got a .new .46 evoloution engine and the instruction say no breakin needed,how true is this?I do intend to at least run a tank or two through it when the weather gets warmer,was just wondering if it gets run at the factory before it goes to the stores?

I have one of those, just in case I ran the first tank a little rich but it actually performed very well when I leaned it for the second tank.

There is a saying..........believe half of what you see and nothing of what you read and you will be ok

You can read stories from posters saying that because of the new CNC machines and closer tolerances that no break in is needed. Truth is that all of the parts in your new engine need time to meet with one another. Microscopic roughness will cause extra heat, the parts will polish together and will become harder / more durable with use. Light loads and richer mixtures are in order for any new engine. I am thinking the manufacturer wants to promote no break in required so a person new to the sport can skip this somewhat intimidating step[X(]. Just try to start a post entitled "Engine Break in" and see what happens

I don't fly any engine prior to putting it on a test stand and running it some. Some engines I only dial in and then fly really rich and then deadstick them for landings. Some I fully break in on the test stand.

The Evo 60 I broke in last year spat the most metal I have ever seen an engine produce and it took 6 full 10oz tanks for it to reduce some. The fuel tank needed to be flushed after the break in. This would have gone unnoticed if mounted on a airplane, to eventually foul the fuel filter or carb later down the road.

The test stand will allow you to see exactly what its doing prior to bolting it to your expensive airplane.

Some of the Evolution engines purport to be run, tuned and broken in at the factory, which is why that claim is made.

Not withstanding this, you are best advised to treat the engine as new and continue to break it in.

The Evolutions are infamous for producing the grey "wear" goo at first. By the time this disappears they are fully broken in.

Ok,should I run this engine rich then lean then rich and so on like my instructions say for my OS?would two tanks on the bench be enough?

If what opjose says is true (and I'm sure it is hehehe), two tanks will be enough, at least, it was for mine, by the third thank there was no grey residues.

You will eventually need to move or eliminate the needle valve limiters

Also if have to put a new glow plug in it, use a hot one such as the OS A3

oh yeah.. I had to remove the two of them

Yup that sounds about right.

And as w8ye mentioned those limiters HAVE to come off...

The limiters would have been a great idea for a newbie if someone else tuned the engine first then put them on for the newbie...

But as they come from the factory they are rarely in the right range... Out of 6 Evolution engines, I've only found one set of limiters that had an acceptable range.

All my engines are Evolutions. I own a .46NT, a .46 NX and a .61NX. Don't believe what you read in the manual. Get a Engine Stand or put it in your plane and BREAK IT IN!

I had to rebuild my .46NT engine and replace both front seal... front and rear bearings less than a year when I ordered the engine. And I always go a little rich when I run my engines.

Always break in your engines... or they will break on you.

Will do,I think it might be nice this weekend so mabe I will take a trip out to the garage and run some nitro though it,I gotta run my ST.60 which is also new,I better take a trip to the lhs to get another gallon of fuel.Thanks guys.

Every Evolution engine I've dealt with has required a proper break-in. Here's the process I follow and it seems to work very good for Evolutions:

Remove the limiters.
Run one tank through it sloppy rich at full throttle - like rich enough to 4-stroke the engine.
Tank two you run at full throttle and alternate between peaking the engine for 10 seconds and going rich to just breaking into a 4-stroke for 10 seconds. Repeat this process for the full tank.
Tank three - tune the high-end needle to about 400 rpm rich of peak, then adjust the idle mixture for proper transition. It's now ready to fly and finish breaking-in in the air.
You'll know when its actually broken in as it'll seem to fall on its face. Usually happens about 11 or so flights. When this happens, you need to change the glow plug and make sure the muffler pressure nipple is clear. Then fire it up and turn the high speed needle rich until it almost wants to fall out. Then set both needles to get 400 rpm rich of peak and a good transition. Then you're set to go and will rarely have to touch either needle valve.

Hogflyer

Yup that infamous "Grey Goo" gums up the nipple.

hey guys, now that we are talking about breakin in... is there a problem if I use old fuel to break in? let's say... 3 or 4 years old [&:]... maybe 8 or 10

It's the best use of old fuel I can think of

If the fuel has been kept sealed, away from sunlight, and out of temperature extremes, there is no problem with old fuel per-se.

However if any of those is not true, throw it out.

oh yes, It has been kept away from sunlight... it won't be a good idea to use it to set the idle adjustment right? I mean, I can try but when I'm back to "good" fuel I'll need to set adjustments again, am I correct?

Well ALL fuel you run through the engine should be "good fuel".

Age alone does not make the fuel good or bad, as it tends to hold up pretty well.

Some guys here have run 10 year old fuel on their planes w/o problems.

Now that said, when you switch mixtures you may have to tweak the needles a bit, but usually not much.

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If the fuel is cloudy, not the original color, etc. don't use it.

This is correct. Reset the needles when you go to the good fuel