What glue is best for these nylon hinges?
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=DUB119

How much glue is necessary in the slots to firmly hold the hinge?

Epoxy or Gorilla glue are two of the more popular choices for these types of hinges. If you use make sure you get a little bit of oil or vaseline in the hinge itself so that the epoxy will not get in ruin the hinge. If you use gorilla glue make sure you have firmly secured the control surface. Gorilla glue expands as it sets and if the control surface isn't secured then it will be pushed out of position.

Of the two I personally use 30 minute epoxy. Stay away from 5 minute epoxy as that won't give you enough time to get the control surface in place before the epoxy kicks off and sets.

Ken

Why, [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX67&P=7]Hinge Glue[/link], of course[&:]

Those are very good hinges, but slightly more work to install. Some people drill through the surface to "pin" the hinges with toothpicks. But that is a lot of needless effort.

To insure that they can never come loose, I score the plastic with an Exacto knife about a dozen times on both sides, top and bottom parallel to the hinge pin, so the epoxy has something to grip besides the little molded in holes. I have had crashes where the hinges have been torn apart at the hinge pin, but have never had a hinge pull free from the balsa that it is glued to.

As to glueing, I fill a clear soda straw with the epoxy, flatten one end and insert it into the hinge slot. Then just squeeze a little into each slot. Then just wet the surface of each hinge and slide in. Definately use the vasoline on the pins before and very slow epoxy.

Here is a picture of a horizontal and elevator hinged with the Du-bro hinges. Can you see them?

Yes, lots of vaseline but only on the metal and rounded hinge parts.

Hinge Glue by Pacer. I also drill a small hole in the hinge slots so i can squirt the glue into the slot. I sometimes drill through the wood and hinge then pin with a tooth pick. It's a lot faster and stronger then cutting holding slots in the hinge itself and will never come out.

Use a tooth pik to apply vaseline or oil th the hinge pin. DON'T GET OIL OR VASELINE ON THE FLANGES OR THEY WON'T STICK!

Don't ask how I know[>:]

Please use the Hinge glue. It will hold much better than epoxy on plastic hinges and won't clog up the centre pin as bad either. I then use round tooth picks with wood glue to pin the hinge. Works well and never a failure. Unless you are flying smaller models such as maybe .25 size then I would use the larger medium size hinges instead of the small ones you listed.

I'll stick with epoxy. I know it and I know it works, and I have NEVER had one stick on me. I also use a lot of CA hinges too. I guess it's mostly CA, but I do use the hinged hinges (department of redundancy department).

CGr.

I have used 30 min epoxy too and it works just fine. I have had hinges get stuck though, and have had to cut them and re-cut hinge slots. I like the hinge glue just because you don't have to mix a proper amount of epoxy each time and can apply it right from the tip of the bottle.

I am using these hinges on a 1/2A scratch build I am planning on starting later this week. I will probably be using the hinge glue unless I get contradicting opinions. Can the glue be used on other applications? I don't want to buy such a big bottle of glue that will very seldomly be used?

All these claims of how well their hinge glue works, yet they feel it necessary to drive a wood peg though the hinge to hold it in place. It doesn't add up. Then you have to cover over the toothpick holes with additional covering or paint.

I many have installed a thousand of these hinges with just epoxy over the last 40 years. They don't pull out if the hinge surface is prepared properly.

How about lightly sanding the hinge surface to help give the epoxy a better holding surface?

I don't do it that way, and have no direct experience with that method. But with course grit (80-120) it should greatly increase the surface area for the glue to grip. A friend that did do it that way seemed to have good results, but I didn't examine his airplanes after hundreds of flight (his didn't last that long).

Same hinges are slightly cheaper at Tower http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD943&P=7

Thank you bruce, with this economy every bit helps.

Can canopy glue be used for these hinges? I already have a bottle of that, rarely used.

I definitely wouldn't use canopy glue on hinges.

Ken

No!

Canope glue is for canope's. It is somewhat soft and does not work into the grains of the wood of the trail edge where hinges normally go, and is no where near as strong as CA or Epoxy, or others. No, definitely not. Use what's recommended. Saving a few pennies here is not the way to go.

CGr.

I think some people are going to peg the hinges regardless if they use epoxy or hinge glue. I use hinge glue and don't pin the hinges. Some of the test that I did before I started using the hinge glue on scraps showed me that the wood gives way before the hinge breaks loose. It is just how I do it. Doesn't make it right or wrong.

BTWI also use the hinge glue for my Robart Hinge points on my 1/4 scale.