I really hate working with CA,smell etc..

My question is what would be the best glue to use for building kits ? How different is Sig Bond from the regular glue used to glue wood?

If you are assembling an ARF there's not much variety available, you're going to have to use CA. But if you build kits you have plenty of choices. I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue for my kit builds. Take a look at my LT-40 build thread to see how I use this glue. [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm[/link] . I also use epoxy where it's needed. The only time I will use CA in building a kit is to harden threads that have been cut into wood, such as wing mounts.

Ken

have a small fan blow across your face, it helps keep the ca fumes away.

I'm trying to learn how to build kits...you can't fully enjoy this hobby unless you know how to build....

Thanks a lot for that link...for sure I can learn a lot from it.

I use Wood glue some CA and Epoxy on my builds FWIW

Bob

My Tiger 2 kit is almost entirely epoxy, My kids hated the CA smell I used a mix of 6 minute and 30 minute epoxy for everything I could. It did lead to more sanding fingerprints then CA would have however. LOL

I used mostly CA for several years. I was constantly getting headaches, and my eyes were always watering. I wore goggles and had a fan blowing across the building surface. I rarely use CA now and my headaches have quit and my eyes don't water near as much. I don't know if the CA was the cause but as I mentioned, I rarely use it anymore. The difference in weight of the model is not that significant. Speed yes. I use mainly Titebond. You can thin it downwhen sheeting wings and you still have a good glue joint, with plenty of time. Choice of glues is left up to the builder, as it should be. As far as I am concerned, I am retired and not rushed for time on building, so I use Titebond. Home Depot, Lowe's Hardware stores sell it in different sizes, and it doesn't cost a fortune.

I got my dad back into building after many years and every time he uses CA he get's a head cold,does this sound crazy?I told him to use elmers wood glue,I like it better then tightbond,dry's faster.

OK, why can't we use other glues for ARF's. I have not put that many together and was wondering.

we have so many different kinds to use? It might take longer, but is that a problem.

sticks

Well, I should have clarified my statements a bit more because there are other types of adhesives used on an ARF. What I was referring to is that many of these ARF's engineered where they expect you to use CA, and using an alternative adhesive is difficult to do in many places. But don't get me wrong that CA is the only adhesive used on ARF's. Epoxy, threadlock, and Formula-560 are some of the other adhesives that are regularly used on ARF's

Ken

Hi,

thanks, I wonder if we should not spend some time on the alternates to using ca glues. It seems that there is a growing problem with CA, the more we use it the bigger the problem.

Has anyone built a ARF using glues other than CA???

sticks

Ok, I think I could put together an ARF with wood glue and epoxy but what about CA hinges? you need thin CA to wick down into the hinge.Does gorilla glue have a place in this hobby? I never got around to use that stuff.

Zap has a nice non CA glue for hinges called Zap Hinge Glue. Works great. http://www.zapglue.com/Hinge.html

I'm using titebond 2 and CA only when i have to like in CA hinges.

titebond 3 is hard to sand and has the same strength like titebond 2.

mxaexm: the Midstar particularly likes titebond as the wing is not sheer web like 4* and even there i used titebond or other aliphatic glues.

i have some weakness to CA so i try not to use it, when i'm using it i also put a mask and fan.

I have assembled several ARF's,there's not alot of building to them, glue the CA hinges in, got to use CA for that, if there is 2 wing halfs to put together, most ARF mfg. recomend epoxy for that, install tail V. and H.stab another case for epoxy, or a Titebond type glue, really thats about it.

other than the hinges, and strengthening screw holes,theres not alot of CA needed, if you chose to use hinge points on the control surfaces then that removes the CA entirely from the picture.

screw holes can be strengthened by using a thinned down version of titebond, thin to a watery consistancy drip a little in the hole let it soak in for a few min, then take a toothpick and open the hole up, to remove the exess glue,dip the toothpick into the hole wipe the extra glue on a papertowel.

let it sit overnight, screw hole is plenty strong.

Does this stuff smell bad? http://www.zapglue.com/Hinge.html

I think one has to size up the project. If pins or tape are not used for assembly where parts have to be held until cured, then ca us used. You can use anything on hinges as long as you keep the joint clear, a little vaseline takes care of that. In building a kit, ca is a quick glue if you want to make headway. If not, then pin (very securely of course), glue (with any glue, as stated above, the Elmer's wood glue is great), sit back, bbq, watch the ball game, come back tomorrow and continue. You have to remember that the purpose of ca is to make a FAST joint or joining, and is used for convenience. Other than that, use what ever you like as long as it is strong, and all the wood glues are. Have fun!

cowboydfk, the Zap Hinge Glue smells like Elmers and even kind of looks like it. No caustic, nostril attacking fumes.

You can also use Gorilla Glue and Gorilla Wood Glue. The Gorilla Glue is especially nice in that you can moisten the hardwood side of a connection before clamping to gain better adhesion as well as gap filling from the resulting foam. But you always have to clamp or it will expand the joint so use where appropriate. The clamp time is only an hour so its fairly fast.

While I wouldn't use anything but thin CA for CA hinges you don't have to use CA hinges.

Ambroid & UHU are another good quick dry non-warp adhesive alternative but not fume-free. 30 minute epoxy whenever strength and vibration resistance count. 15 minute epoxy where strength is less important but epoxy is what I want to use. That's the shortest worktime epoxy I'll use anymore. I find some epoxy irritates my sinuses when mixing too.

The only things I don't like about the carpenter glues is their tendency to introduce a warp and the slow cure time.

Regards,

Clay

CA was originally developed to help hold wounds close on the battle field.

As such it's actually pretty inert.

However it reacts to the liquid in your mucus membranes, causing tearing, sinus problems, etc.

Add to that it's tendancy to vaporize into very fine particulates, and you get the reasons for all of the complaints.
We tend to hover over our work right in the line of the rising CA particles, exacerbating the problem.

A cross blowing fan works great to direct the fumes away from you, but you must be upwind of the CA, and well away from any rising fumes.

don't get me wrong, I use CA and do try and use a fan with good ventilation thats a very good statment.

I just don't want to have a problem with CA, I wiant to be able to keep using it as long as I can.

sticks

Gorilla glue does make a wood glue not expanding. I use it alot. It grabs fast, dries more clear than titebond. I like to do transparent and titebond or elmers has a tendency to show up. I cannot use CA, very allergic to it. I even invested in a very good mask, only to spend my money, didn't help. I do use the pacer hinge glue on robart hinge points. I do a fair amount of scratch building, not to many ARF's.