i started my engine for the first time today with a few minor/beginner mistakes. first i was fliping the prop backwards for the longest time and then after about 100 flips of the prop i realized my line to the carb had a hole, and then i got the thing started and i realized that i could not shut it off cause my rod to the servo was too long and i could only take it down to half speed[X(], lastly i did not have the prop properly tightened so it broke a little of my spinner. but in the end i had it running and attempted a little tuning.
my one question tho is when i had it at full speed the nuts that held the rod stoppers (i think that is what there called, there the little things that connect the push rods to the servos) would rattle off. since this is very dangerous what would u guys suggest I do? plz and thank u.

I very seldom recommend getting help since I tought myself. But man it sounds like you really need to find someone local and get some help setting up the plane and maybe test flying it for you and maybe even a little buddy box time before you hurt yourself or someone else. In the long run you will enjoy the hobby more if you get help now.

Hmm.. Well, there are several items that you should have been aware of, or should have been told regarding linkage from the servo to the carb throttle arm.

The whole process takes a few minutes to set up and get right before you even attempt to start an engine with throttle control. Let me take a few minutes to outline this for you and maybe help you get off on the right foot here.

First of all, it is very important to make sure your throttle servo is centered and that you have selected the right "hole" on the servo arm for the proper and correct end-to-end movement from control from the transmitter. This involves setting up the linkage for full movement WITHOUT binds on either end.

Next, you have to determine what is full throw for the throttle arm on the carb.

Ok. You have both, now you have to combine this so that you have full movement from idle to full open without binds on either end. You DO NOT want to have the servo move further than full open or full closed. This will draw lots of excessive current from your battery pack and severely shorten flight time. Binds are bad.

Ok. Next step is to select the proper hole in both the servo arm AND the throttle arm so that you have full and unhindered movement of the throttle linkage from full closed to full open... including trim and the engine cut-off switch or button if you have that on your TX.

Once you are happy that there is full movement without binds.. meaning that on your TX throttle stick, fully closed means fully closed on your carb without movement of the servo beyond fully closed on the throttle, or fully open on your carbg without further movement of the servo beyond full open does not occur.

Hey, this takes a little time in the initial setup. If you have a computer radio, don't.. DO NOT rely on end points at first. Use this only after you have the mechanical adjustment correct, then fine tune it using the end-points on your TX.

I've outlined a process in a previous posting on how to do the servo centering and basic adjustments on your throttle.

I will try to find it and put this in a subsequent post in this thread.

CGr.

Take a look here.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83...tm.htm#8375449

This outlines the process of adjusting and centering linkage.

CGr.

my problem is that the rod stopers come unscrewed. wat can i do about that? is there anyother types? if so id like to know.

Are you using metal clevis on your throttle, then using a stop nut on the end of it?? If you are using metal clevis you should replace this with a nylon clevis. The reason for this is the metal to metal contact between the clevis and the throttle arm can create RF interference for your radio when the plane starts vibrating. If you replace this with a nylon clevis, you will not need a stop nut on the pushrod.

Ken

I'm wondering if this is his "rod stoppers"?

those are it n492em. but i think there a lot cheeper than that cause they came with the trainer and the instructions are crapy and the materials dont seem to fit the way the instructions say they should. they come loose and the rod that connects my engion is the wire that is just bent into a Z formation at the end. Like this >(z)

if you guys could show some images of these clevises and the materials that your talking about that would be great. thnx

Get yourself a piece of 256 rod threaded on one end and a 256 nylon clevise. Screw the nylon clevise onto the rod and use that end to attach to the carb arm. Use the other end to attach to the servo arm with the fastner that you have. If the set screw does not stay tight when you tighten it up with a screwdriver then apply a small amount of blue loctite to the screw threads and then tighten it up.

toothman,

It may be you don't have things quite right.
Post some pics of your setup. And, we can see if we can help before spending any more $$$.

EJ

sorry but i dont know how to post pics. but i do think i have things backwards. i will work on it for a little while and see if i can get some pics around.

Along with the help here, it will do you a world of good to seek out a modeler who is willing to help. This will be in the form of "hands-on" experience of which you can see and do for yourself!