have trouble making Z bends or bends for the fast link in the correct spot can I use these for ALL servo connections instead of Z bends or fast links?<u><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><font color="#0000ff" size="4">

</p></font></font><u><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><span lang="EN">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXD927&amp;P=7</span></font></font></u><font size="4"><span lang="EN"> </span></font></u>

A lot of people will tell you never to use those on a control surface.

I'm not one of those people. I use them all the time. Just be sure they are tight and use thread lock.

I agree with Minn, I also use them all the time and never had a problem. Use the allen/hex type like you showed and NOT the ones with the screwdriver slots because they tighten easier/better and ALWAYS use the metal keepers. It's OK to use the plastic ones during set-up while you are deciding which servo arm or which arm hole to use but always fly with a metal keeper.

I've got to add a however. I wouldn't use the EZ conectors on ailerons, rudder, or elevator on any plane above a 40 size, and maybe some of the 40 Size rockets migh need a more secure linkage.

Don.

Ditto, Z bends cause more problems then they solve. Been using dubro EZ connectors for years with Zero issues, locktite and metal clips

if ya plan on staying in the hobby

z bender I use the z bend at the servo side then. But better yet I've been using these and they are awsome. e z links just make one 90 and hack off the end

use it on a threaded end push rod and use a clevis on the control surface side.You only have to be within a 1/8 inch which is allot of wiggle room. I was leary of them at first but they held up on everything from 40 sided aerobat to 1/4 stuff.

threaded pushrod

EZ link and a threaded clevis on everything for me. The clevis can break, but it's not going to rattle loose.

IMHO DuBRO MAKES THE BEST Z-BENDER !

I will be using the Better swing keepers http://www.hobby-lobby.com/swing_kee...18442_prd1.htm

photo 1: The Better swing keeper
photo 2: One bend about quarter inch from end
photo 3: Line up the holes in the keeper with the hole in the horn
photo 4: Slide the bend in the wire into the holes of the keeper and horn
photo 5: Snap the wire into the slot of the keeper
photo 6: Ready to go

So easy.

Get one of these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XXC81&amp;P=ML .They make perfect Z bends exactly where you want them.</p>

Paul</p>

Those pliers will stress the metal at the bend - possibly leading to metal failure  The DuBro one won't do that....

I just used them on my new Ultra Sport 60 with a 75AX in the nose. This is not only a rocketship, but it is also my new "Baby". I have complete faith in EZ Connectors. Just be sure to tighten the screw. You need to hold the brass barrel with a plier as you tighten. Just using the pushrod to hold it is not strong enough (And use threadlock)

+1 what Minnflyer said. I've been using the E-z connectors for over a year now with no problems, I have them on my Venus, Escapade, Something Extra, Avistars, and the Balsa Nova. I've never had one come loose. kow.</p>

Also, don't ever reuse the keepers, metal or plastic.
This is a recommendation from the Du-Bro rep.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter

As I said, I never fly the plastic keepers and the metal ones usually get destroyed removing them or at least damaged. To me they (metal) are a one-time item which is why I use the plastic for test fittings. So they (metal) don't get re-used by me either. Too cheap to try to do so. IMO.

When you say EZ connector with metal keeper, could you point me the real stuff so I don't mess up my new reactor 46? Thanks
SDG666

The picture in this link shows two EZ Connectors, two screws, two plastic keepers and two metal keepers. Personally, I use the plastic keepers, but some people prefer to use the metal ones:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXD927&amp;P=7

Personally I don't use the EZ connectors because I had a bad exerience with them. I had one come loose in flight, and the only thing that saved the plane was a blob of epoxy that was on the pushrod. It was the elevator and the blob gave me just enough up control to actually get the plane back on the ground. And since then I haven' t used them. But I will conceded that I didn't use thread lock on them either. So I'm not saying to not use them, but if you do use them make sure you use threadlock on them and get them very tightly secured.</p>

Ken</p>

It's easy to get confused.  The OP said Z bend.  Another said EZ Links, and yet a third said EZ Connectors.  Almost to many ZZZZ's.</p>

EZ Links:  http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXAZC3&amp;P=0</p>

EZ Connectors:  http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXD925&amp;P=7</p>

Z Bend:  http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XL475&amp;P=ML</p>

Personally, I use the EZ Connector only oh the throttle, and the EZ Link on the servo end of all of my control surface linkage  with a securing type clevis (Safety Lock Kwik Link) on the control surface end of the linkage.</p>

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXWH33&amp;P=7  (This one is 2-56.  They also make them in 4-40)</p>

The problem I found with Z bends is that the perpendicular part is not exactly 90 degrees and will cause minor binding and some wear in the servo arm hole... at least that's what I think would happen.  So, I make a 90 and use the EZ Links listed above.  Ummmm.. in all my years... ahem..  I've never had one fail.  Never.. umm.. that's in all my years.  Ok..ok.. </p>

CGr</p>

</p>

</p>

I use them on GIANT SCALE Gassers all the time no problems at all!

However there is a simple precaution you can take other than the locktite, on larger planes, that solves all of the complaints about using quick EZ type connectors. I do this when I use EZ connectors on planes larger than .90's.

Just throw small collars with grub screws, ahead and behind the connectors, and use STAR type affixing circles, not the plastic ones.

The wheel collars will act as a secondary "backup" in case the EZ connector slips, yet these can still be adjusted quickly at the field.

It is almost impossible to remove the STAR type affixing circles without cutting them out.

Do it this way and you'll have something even more reliable to what those who DO NOT use the EZ connectors end up with.


You have to be careful with Z bends, some of the benders put too tight of an angle on the bend, weakening the angle and causing it to break in flight under stress.

Don't ask HOW I know!

I use z-bends on the servo end, and quick-links on the control surfaces.</p>

I choose the z-bend on the servo end for a couple reasons. </p>

1. I've used different quicklinks, and if set up properly, some have ended up colliding/binding/interfering with the center of the servo control arm when at the extreme ends of the travel. </p>

2. I don't trust the EZ connectors from slipping (on the screw side) or coming off the servo arm (on the underside with the retainer) locktite or no, I just don't trust 'em. Their holding power is all based on linear friction and presure.</p>

3. EZ connectors on the servo arm can be difficult to access if/when you're making adjustments. I prefer to make the adjustment at the control surface end. Not the servo end.</p>

Some have argued that z-bend "hollow out" the hole in the servo arm. That may be true. And I can see that as greatly possible if the bends are not sharp and precise. If the bends are actually arcs then yes, definitely. If the bends are crisp, then the top and bottom of the servo arms also contacted by the horizontal portion of the rod. An EZ-link has just as much potential of hollowing out the control arm if the bend isn't crisp and tight.</p>

I choose quicklinks on the control surface end for the following reasons.</p>

1. There has to be adjustment somewhere. I prefer it on the control surface end, because it's easier (for me anyway) to adjust them there, then trying to dig into the fuselage and adjust it at the servo.</p>

2. If used with a piece of fuel line to assure/maintain closure, I haven't run across binding issues. (Where the link ends up hitting the control horn.</p>

</p>

But the best caveat (and  used most often here) is: </p>

</p>

Do what you find works best for you.</p>

Personally, I use this version http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE114&P=ML , but that's just me. I don't use pliers or thread lock but have no problem with those that do. Again, my choice and that is what this is all about. Been using these or similar for close to 30 years now and NEVER a problem. Seems reliable to me.

Yeah, just TRY to remove those star wheels!

You have to practically chew them off.

Like I said in post #15, I destroy them usually taking them off and NEVER try to reuse one.

I am sold on these EZ connectors suggested by bruce88123 and others that us the same http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE114&P=ML

I will be using those for all my connections on the servo end, steering arm, and throttle arm. With the metal star keepers and locktite.

I will be using the swing keepers http://www.hobby-lobby.com/swing_kee...18442_prd1.htm on the control surface horns.

I will also be using the swing keepers on the dual aileron horns with nylon clevises at the servo end.