I had been asked a couple of times, so here is a picture of a Hangar 9 remote glow adapter for use in a cowl situation where you don't want to put a large hole for the glow ignitor, or putting a glow ignitor upside down into a cowl could be awkward. Ialso built a Vanessa Rig CGchecker, and found out that using my old style pencils in a 2x6 base was A: too shakey, and B: just a touch inaccurate. The Vanessa Rig showed Iwas a full 1/4 inch in front of the recommended starting CG point as printed in the manual for my P-47

<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt" class="MsoNormal"><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman">I love the hangar 9 remote glow, splashily the lead that goes to the plug. I wish I could find a place I can get just the lead. Any one have a suggestion. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span></font></font></p>

For $7.99 that seems like a good deal.What do you use to plug into the cowl to power this, just 12 volts and a special plug?

Here's a picture Cappaj1. You just connect your glow igniter to it. Also don't forget glow igniters are 1 cell, 1.2 volts I beleve. 12 volts would produce a very hot glow plug but only for a split second.

http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Def...ProdID=HAN3025

I use a glow driver that you just unscrew, and put a common D cell battery into. Iaverage 4 - 6 months on a battery.

I have a brand new remote glow driver still in the bag that I was going to use on my Excelleron 90 (inverted OS 1020 AX) just for the convenience of not having to figure out if I have the driver on correctly.  Although I since switched over to a Radio South Pro Driver so there is no doubt if it's hooked up correctly or not.  if the LED's light up, you got a connect.</p>

However, I'm still planning on installing that remote driver.  I just need to find the time to do it.</p>

CGr.</p>

Iwish this had been a little larger plane, Icould have mounted the fuel dots and the remote glow connector inside a hatch, with a door, making it a very clean looking installation.

I would reccommend that a remote glow lead be avoided in an inverted engine installation especially so if no reasonable glow plug access is providedthrough the cowling. This makes clearing a hydrolocked engine virtually impossible to clear without cowl removal. That is likely to cause lost flying time and frustration at the field on occassion.

John

How about an engine facing diagonally downwards and to the side?

If I get hydrolock for any reason, I just flip the plane upside down and flip the prop back and forth to clear it out and give it another try. Better than removing the cowl on a remote glow adapter or pulling the plug.

Any engine mounted past 90 degrees will be more succeptable to hydrolock even inadvertantly such as someone carrying the airplane carelessly With the nose down when there is fuel in the tank. Now if there is a remote glow lead and/or no through cowl access to remove the plug you have just removed the best way to clear a lock and that is removal of the plug then hitting with a starter for a few seconds.

I unless I am competing in a precision scale contest then doing the following will save a lot of lost flying and lost days at the field:

With every cowled airplane I always provide;

reasonable access for a glow driver as well as removal or replacement of a glow plug.

reasonable access for adjusting the main needle valve and without special tools

reasonable access for adjusting the mid range needle or bleed screw.

reasonable access for pinch tuning which mean an exposed section of the carb feed line through the cowl.

John

Bingo,

Here is a couple of pictures of the hatch I incorporated into my TF P-47 build. I haven't taken any pics of it completed, but the receiver switch, charging jack, fuel dot, remote glow connection, and air retract fill port are all located here.

On my super skybolt and my P-47 topflite, I opted for remote or on-board glow. The skybolt was converted to direct due to the onboard glow was making tuning the low end a nusance. But one or two times I did flood it, all I do is rotate the prop until the carb or exhaust port is open and tilt the plane that way to get the fuel to flow out. On a fully enclosed engine for scale looks, I try not to punch excess holes if I can get away from it. On the P-47, the fuel and glow have a hatch that you can access the glow and fueler. The skybolt and the jug bolth have the main needles out in the open for tuning, but that is all. I even try to hide power switches, it also serves to protect them from castor oil residue too. If you have really low clearence inside the cowl, but want remote glow without anything sticking through the cowl, you can use a 3/32 wheel collar drilled out to .101" and replace the setscrew with a short 4-40 thread cap heasd bolt, grind the chrome plating away on the side and solder your wire to the side of the collar and slip a piece of plastic between the collar and the plug for a insulator. Snug it, but don't go nuts, you can snap the tip off the plug with the torque if not careful, now your done and it's the same height as the top of the plug tip and secure.

I have remote glo drivers fitted to all my aircraft that have inverted engines, fitting a normal glo driver on an inverted motor is dangerous, especially the part where you have to remove the glo driver with the prop spinning.  I have never had any drama with engine lock up and after seeing people trying to remove glo drivers from inverted engines decided that it is simply the safest way to go. Have used them on all sorts of four stroke motors and never had an issue with them. Most of my cowlings are fitted with 4 screws, if I have a problem it takes about 2 minutes to remove the prop, undo the screws and get to the motor.  If the choice has to be made between convenience and safety I will run with the safety method any time.