There was a recent post in one of the forums in which people were talking about sheeting technics, and someone had posted a neat idea: the thought was to tightly wrap a stretchy material over the sheeting so that the sheeting conforms to the shape of the structure while the glue cures. The stretchy material in question would actually stick to itself. The person who had made this post actually had a link where these stuff could be bought (I think it was a farm supplier.)

Next time I come across a good idea like this I'll be sure to write the details down. No matter how hard I look I cannot find the post in question. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

That would have been me!!!

The material is called Co-Flex. It's used in veternary medicine, human product is called Co-Ban and is MUCH more expensive than the Co-Flex is. You can order at the address below (many more with a Google search). Or you can find a local sorce for it. Local farming supplies stores will have it as well as most local farm Co-ops.

http://www.doversaddlery.com/product...cd2=1260552963

Ken

Co Flex

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9296472

RCKen & Minn - you guys are truly a duo!

Thanks!

Yea, like Abbot and Costello

What's the man's name on first base?

I don't know's on third!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sShMA85pv8M

Ken

Too funny!

So here's a silly question: you'd think a roll of 5 yards would be plenty for a typical sheeting job, but since these are only $1.5 a roll, how many rolls should I get?

One roll is PLENTY for doing the fuselage on a plane.  I usually keep 5 or 6 rolls around here though as this stuff is REALLY good for wrapping the foam around battery packs as well.

Ken

I just ordered a half dozen rolls. I need to stop reading these posts, no shortage of good ideas that cost money!

I recently got "inspired" by another post on the topic of Kit Building Tools and ordered myself a Dremel set and the GP hinge slotter (yes, I know, the Dremel is a must have!)

I asked on the other thread, but how messy is co-flex if you accidentally apply to much glue and it dries the co-flex to the sheeting? Is it an easily sand-able material?

You could always lay a sheet of plastic food wrap or waxed paper over the wood before applying the co-flex

Don't you worry about twist when using that technique?

I was thinking more like Mutt and Jeff

If I recall correctly, in the old thread someone had suggested to wet the sheet first, put it in place and let it dry. Once dried, the sheet would already be in the desired shape, making gluing much easier. The first time I try this technic I think I'll do this to get the hang of it.

Thats exactly what I do, and is a very recommended practice. However, I still wrap the sheeting when gluing to assure the best adhesion. As for wrapping in wax paper first, sometimes the most simple ideas slip even the greatest of minds (not that mine remotely qualifies) .

Al Rabe, who is expert at molding sheet to fit, uses two inch wides strips torn off an old bedsheet.

You just spray the wood with a 50/50 blend of water and ammonia, let it soak in for a while and start sheeting. I pre bend/form a lot of the smaller sheeted parts using different things like spray paint cans and different objects by sparying and using rubber bands to hold the wood until dry. Next time I build something like another Sukhoi I want to try the co flex, I just heard of it when Ken did the post. Sounds good to me.

The Co-Flex doesn't have a huge problem with sticking much. It's got a coating on it that does pretty good with not sticking. Remember, this was designed to cover wounds with, and they don't want it sticking to dried blood. But if it does stick to an glue you can easily scrape it off or sand it off. I wouldn't worry about it.


Ken

I highly recommendt this outfit for co-flex and 3M bandages. I have bought for them for decades and their customer service is not to be exceeded! http://www.jeffersequine.com their current price as of 12/11 is $1.24/roll for co-flex bandages.

I have horses and have been using this stuff for years to wrap ankles, knees, etc. when one of them comes up limping. I buy it at Orscheln and it is CHEAP. Any farm and feed store will have it and, yes, it works wonderfully well for this purpose. It comes in a roll like an Ace bandage and is available in some awful purty colors.

I use it a lot in my work as a nurse. It has an adhesive coating that is designed to only stick to itself and not to skin. It can be stretched fairly tight or not tight at all and it peels off of itself fairly easily.
A tip with this is to use a magic marker to color the end so you can find it for unwrapping.
Another tip is DO NOT WRAP IT TIGHT over batteries and foam because when you compress foam you loose the shock absorption ability. also this product has a crepe like surface when UNSTRETCHED that is somewhat shock absorbing.

A couple eh? Burns & Allen maybe?

No need to use ammonia on balsa. Just add a little Simple Green to the water. Ammonia plasticizes subrin and lignin, but there is little of either in balsa. Some have said that ammonia makes balsa brittile, but that is hearsay.

Recent reading on similar topic lead me to try an Ace wrap (could have been here).
It was for a fiberglass epoxy lay up of a rounded fuse top. I had a wood version to use as a shape mold.
stuck the orignal in a bag, pulled a nylon knee high over that, (left over from my bank robber career) light spray of 3m77, a single layer of some med weight fiberglass and a second knee high. Wetted it out with epoxy stuck that whole works into a bag and then Ace wrapped it.
It came out fine. it retained the dark color of the knee high
(Darker stockings disguise better[8D])

Long way to go, but it would work just fine for shaping balsa too!