I have already mounted my motor and ran one tank through it. After the first break-in i had one of my landing gear screws back out and it reminded me that i needed to lock-tite some of the screws on the plane. I've put blue locktite on all the landing gear screws and i'm sure i need to do this to the motor mount also. I really don't want to go through all the process of removing the motor/fuel tank/covers and what not so i was just wondering if i can just put a dab of the blue locktite on the backside of the screws would it still do the job? I don't know if the locktite will seep into the screws like thin CA or not. If not, would it be an ok idea to just drop some CA on the screws since i'm not planning on removing them anytime soon? Thanks for all the help!

I would take out each bolt one at a time,
then put blue locktite on each one and tighten
them.


Bob

Your mileage may vary.

There is a very thin, wicking Locktite that you might be able to find at industrial supply places which will work its way down into the threads. Other wise a drop of CA might be better if you don't want to pull each screw out.

Hi!
I never use Loctite on my engine bolts!
Been flying for 34 years.

If you tighten your bolts properly and use blind nuts on the back of the fire wall (which you should ) you do not have to use blue Loctite.
Neither do you have to use Locktite when you mount the engine to the engine mount.
Beware that Loctite destroys plastic mounts. For mounting engines to a plastic mount I use either metal screws or drill and tap my mounts.
You can also just drill the mounts and use lock washer nuts but it's nearly always difficult to reach them if you have a tight cowled in engine.

Thanks Jaka, I did not know that bad reaction between plastic and Loctite.

Blue Loctite cures when confined in the absense of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.
Hence; no much locking effect if the compound is applied outside the male-famale thread interface.

Note that CA can be dissolved by nitro fuel.

In addition, anything on the expossed thread only will not avoid the bolt to loosen at least a little.

Some silicone caulk over the thread and the mount, or a counter nut on the expossed thread may do the trick better than CA.

theres this stuff called vibratite....works better than Loctite (thread locker) its not cheap, but a little bottle goes a long way... I use it on cowl screws, hatches....stuff that i remove more regularly. It lasts about 20 cycles unlike threadlocker which is a one time use... You simply brush it on, sparingly though if you put too much, especially on small bolts you'll have a hard time screwing them in

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/p..._thread_locker

I much prefer this method over using nuts and bolts. It really only works well in metal mounts though.If oneuses a taper tap for plastics or Glass reinforced mounts andyou don't go all the way through with the tap, you can create a "tight" thread that grips the bolt nicely. But this isn't my own personal preference.
I've been using the DuBro anti-vibration mounts lately and like them a lot.
I prefer shanked,stainless, cap-head bolts with allen key heads with a plain and spring washer. In an ideal world HT bolts would be the order of the day, but stainless looks so much better. The shank avoids marking of the engine bearers by the screw thread. The cap head allows you to get at the engine mount from one side only, with a narrow tooland on some models with tight installations it's the ONLY way to get the enginein and out.