typhoonclassflyer

I looked around on horizon hobby and their engines started in the 300 dollar price range. I came across these two engines on troybuiltmodels.

17cc - http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/RCSSV17-H.html - $179.00
26cc - http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/RCSSV26.html - $209.00

Questions:

These engines are made from a Chinese company. I don't know where the engines are made from from horizon hobby. On the manual they tell you your warranty. So, how do these engines compare to the horizon hobby engines? They say the 17cc engine will power 60 to 90 size aircraft, so would this be better than glow engines? Also, what do you need for a 60 to 90 size (17cc) aircraft and a 120 size (26cc) to get it going? I have a 6 channel receiver and don't worry about the servos but for these engines what type of battery, starting equipment, or another things you might need? Other things I might need to know tell me?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You will need another battery pack to power the electronic ignition. You will also need a special stopper in your tank (Gasoline will disolve the supplied stopper)

You will also want to keep your radio gear at least 12" from the engine and do not use a metal pushrod to the throttle.

Aside from that, not much difference

typhoonclassflyer

So, what do you need to start the engine? Do these look like good engines?

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Most guys use a good pair of leather work or construction gloves and put their unused hand behind their back. You might also check over in the Gas forum

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_142/tt.htm

CGr.

typhoonclassflyer

DO you needseparatebatteries for the engine andreceiver?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yes

oldtyme

Mike,

I've been flying a long time but am also new to gas engines. Does the "keep the radio gear 12" from the engine" apply to engines that are using a magneto? I am using a Zenoah G62. Also for the guy that asked about how to start these engines, I bought a rear mounted spring starter for mine but Sullivan also makes a starter called the "Megatron" designed for these larger engines.

Andy

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Don't forget the gas engines needs a different fuel line!!! There are a couple but you can always find Tygon in most LHS. I use the G-62 and yes, the 12 inch rule of thumb will apply. You want to keep your electronics as far away from the engine as you can. No metal rods going to the engine. It has been said that you don't pick up the RF with 2.4 but we have found that to not always be true. Starting the G-62 is simple with the spring starter. Mag off {you do have a mag kill switch don't you??} Choke until there is gas flowing out of the carb a little, prop turned to the back of the spring, switch on, let go, engine fires!!! Gloved hand is still something you better do, a nice welding glove works very well. If the smaller gassers will start with most any good electric starter, after about 30cc you will need a big starter but they hand start so easy there really isn't any need unless hand starting makes you nervous then you really better get one of the big straters or make one. I had one I made from an old Toyota car starter. One friend set up his bug cordless electric drills as a starter.
In the gas engine forum you will find a lot of good info. All of the basics.
Gene

fxstb

Something else you have to consider concerning glow/gas engines for a small model is the extra weight (engine and extra battery pack) and the ''most of the time'' less power of the gas engine. I would say that a 17 to 20cc gas engine is ok for a 60 to 90 SCALE model but if you are in to acrobatic flying it could be a handicap. An other thing is the larger size of the gas engine that often translate in to more cowl cutting depending of the model. And yes a good electric starter with a good battery will start a 17cc easy.

Rodney

I fly quite a few older engines, mostly Quadra with magneto. I use regular 72 MHz FM radio and have never had any interference problems. I do use a non conductive throttle pushrod (usually nylon) and make sure I have no metal to metal items on the model that can rub together or vibrate. I find it difficult to keep 12 inches between receiver and engine, most of mine are probably in the 8 inch range with the battery and associated wiring right behind the engine and no problems in the last 15 years of gasoline flying. I do keep thing separated as far as possible though to minimize the possibility of problems with RF. Be sure to use a resistor type plug. If the part number has an R in it, it most probably a resistor plug. Keep you kill switch wiring in front of the firewall. In answer to "do you have to use a separate receiver and ignition battery", the answer is YES.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I used to set mine up as well as I could but I have even set them up with the throttle and choke servo on the engine box right next to the engine without problems. Then I finally got bit and the RF latched onto me. You do the best you can as far as keeping things away from the engine. Each battery, RX and Engine will also need there own switch.