opjose; thanks. I took off the heat SHRINK awhile ago, and made sure all connections were good-they were. I had those bullet connectors on my connections before, but I heard that heat SHRINK was better guess I screwed up there!

ok, just want to make sure I understand this. I get that you want me to disconnect the esc and BL motor, but after that I'm not sure...do you want me to put the + and - wires of a battery tester on the esc/motor wires? And when you say "If you fail to get continuity you've found the problem" do you mean if I fail to get current I've found the problem? I'm not a really technical guy, so excuse me if I sound stupid here


thanks
-Max

No, current is power, continuity means there are no breaks in the wire/connections doesnt matter if the wire is 2 inches or 20 feet long if there is a break or bad connection there wont be continuity from one end to the other, you need a test meter for this if there is cross continuity then there is a short,,which is likely the problem.....Rog

Heat SHRINK tubing does not provide for continuity between two points. Somehow the wires must be joined UNDER the heat shrink tubing.

This can be done by soldering the wires together ( after sliding a bit of tubing down so you later can move it up over the solder and heat the tubing to guard the solder joints ), or by soldering bullet connectors to the ends of the wires, putting heat shrink over the connectors and joining the connectors... The latter is how it is usually done.



Sorry you started off talking about Mosfets, etc. which indicated to me a knowledge of electrical circuitry and components.

What you need to do is to use a meter to be sure that you can get a signal from point A to point B.
Doing so establishes that the wiring and connectors between points A and B are all good.

So to use a CRUDE ascii diagram...



||||||||+______||||||||||||A_____[<_____A|||||||
||LiPo||............||| ESC ||B______[<____ B||Motor
||||||||-______||||||||||||C______[<_____C|||||||


The "[" represents the female bullet connector, the "<" represents the male connector. Underscores are wires. Periods don't exist.
Both should be soldered to their respective wires.

To check continuity, you would press a probe from the meter with the LiPo DISCONNECTED ( it doesn't matter if the probe is positive or negative ) to point "A" on the ESC and point "A" where the wire is soldered into the motor itself.

If you get low resistance then current CAN flow between the two points when the motor is running.

The same with all of the others.

Heat shrink ALONE cannot be used to hold wires in contact with each other, etc.
You need a GOOD and permanent electrical connection.

BTW: remember that BEFORE you solder anything in place you typically have to put heat shrink further down onto the wire, where it will NOT get HOT.

Once you have the joints soldered you move the tubing back, and heat the tubing with a heat gun ( not hair dryer ), to get it to cover the soldered areas... but the soldering job itself must first be good!

If you haven't done this sort of thing before ( which it sounds like you haven't ) get some help if possible from other club members.
It pays to have someone guide you through all of this the first time you do anything.

opjose;
awright, I got it. The only reason I know about mosfets and the like are because I constantly blew them on my falcon 40 (heli) I've done lots of soldering; no fine-tuned soldering, but this isn't very complicated so I'm all good I realize that heat shrink doesn't conduct electricity, but since I had the wires from the motor and esc tightly wrapped together, I figured it wouldn't make a difference if I had heat shrink on top of it for insulation.

okay, I just finished soldering all the motors' wires to the esc's wires. For some reason, the motor works perfectly now! Maybe they didn't have a good enough connection before...I don't really know. All the connections were solid when I checked them before, so I honestly haven't the foggiest idea why the motor didn't react before

thanks for all the help everybody, I would've chucked the ESC if I hadn't had help here


-Max

Yup, it's exactly as suspected a bad connection or solder joint.

That's why I wanted you to perform a continuity test to see where the problem was.

Solder itself is not a great conductor, so you really need the items to be soldered to be in contact with each other and solder to flow over these areas.