I was recently putting heat SHRINK (edited) on the connection between my brushless motor and my ESC. I used a hair dryer to do it, but now the esc isn't working. When I plug it into my RX and put in the battery, the servos respond-just not the motor. Also, the esc doesn't make the usual "beep beep" noises when I plug in the batt. I took off the cover and looked at the inside-no mosfets or the like are blown. Is the esc dead, and should I just replace it?


thanks
-Max

Make sure the throttle stick is all the
way down, when you plug in the battery.

Bob

thanks. I just tried that, but it did exactly the same thing; the motor didn't respond, the esc didn't beep, and only the servos worked. I made sure this wasn't the reciever's fault by plugging it into a different plane, where it worked perfectly.


-Max

It sounds like the Esc is not arming.

Bob

My guess as well.

First make sure all of the motor wires are connected.

Then turn on the plane and ESC.

Take the throttle ALL the way up, move the trim all the way up.

Then take the throttle all the way down, and move the trim all the way down.

See if it then arms.

thanks!

just tried it, with the same result [:@] servos worked, motor didn't.

Is it possible that the esc overheated way too much when I was blow-drying the heat shrink (the heat shrink was about 1-2 inches away from esc)? It usually beeps when it turns on, regardless of whether there's a TX or even RX plugged into it.


-Max

It is unlikely that the hair dryer overheated any of the surface mount components. However it may have caused some solder to flow to an area where it should not have, possible shorting things out or preventing proper function. Low temp solder can be heated to this point by a hair dryer.

The actual "beeps" do NOT originate from the ESC at all!

Rather the ESC pulses the motor windings to produce the tones you hear.

If the motor is disconnected or improperly hooked up, you will hear NO tones from an otherwise working ESC.

Also if the ESC is not seeing a signal from the receiver it will act much as you've described.

Check that your throttle channel is working properly by hooking up a servo to the throttle channel.

Also you may want to perform a continuity test from the throttle RX plug back to a surface trace wire on the ESC itself.... of course this is done with everything unpowered!

also check to make sure you didnt pull the insulating cover back and those wires arent touching metal at the motor...Rog

Make sure that your throttle control is not reversed on the radio you're using. You can check this by putting the stick to the full throttle position and then plugging in the battery (make sure the plane is secured first!) and see if you hear the arming beeps.

This one little thing cost me a newesc, motor andbatterysetup to learn about when I was relatively new to RC planes.

Ah.. you put heat SHRINK not heat SINK on this. I was wondering where you were gonna use a heat sink to dissipate heat to.


And before doing some of the stuff recommended, take the prop off. 5 stiches on my right index finger is why.

CGr.

Ah.. you put heat SHRINK not heat SINK on this. I was wondering where you were gonna use a heat sink to dissipate heat to.


And before doing some of the stuff recommended, take the prop off. 5 stiches on my right index finger is why.

CGr.

Also make sure if you have throw limits enabled on your TX, you undo them. I reversed channels about 300 times before figuring that one out.

I feel your pain... literally!

A very good point.

You know I thought he meant HEAT SINK, but what you are saying makes far more sense given the original post.

e.g. "some heat sink (should be SHRINK!) on the connection between my brushless motor and my ESC"

That being the case, the ESC is probably just fine, but he may have to resolder a bad connector or has a broken unexposed wire.


I've often cut into the heat SHRINK covering on ESC's to put heat SINKs onto the cooling "plates" used on the MOSFETs.

I've never understood WHY ESC manufacturers INSIST on putting heat SHRINK OVER surfaces that need to be dissipating heat!!!!

That's like putting insulation around a stove to keep it COOL!!!

It makes no sense.

That was my thought too, but I wanted to stay out of the discussion because I wasn't sure I understood correctly.

CGr.

And I believe you understood best of all!

Bottom line, please jump in when in doubt!

wow. thanks for all the replies. Sorry for my screw-up in the first post-I meant heat SHRINK my bad

I tried what you all suggested-the motor twitched some, but besides that didn't do anything. still no beep-beeps. I'm sure that the throttle channel is working, because I tested it in another plane with a different esc/motor.

any thoughts on this?


thanks
-Max

Did you test the throttle channel on that receiver on another plane?

Which ESC are you using? Does it have an on-board BEC?

yes, I tested the throttle channel on another plane; it works perfectly.

[link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4713&Product_Name=TowerP ro_BM2409-18T_/_25A_BEC_/_8x3.8_Prop_Combo]I'm using this ESC[/link] and it does have an on-board BEC

Okey doke. As I said, I was following the thread, but somewhat confused based on the original post. Next time....

CGr/

CGRetired; sorry for the confusion-I neeeeed tu chek mie spelllling!

That means the negative and positive connection from the battery to the ESC are good.

The fact that the servos move also means the signal wire connection is good.

However given you are not hearing beeps, either ( in order of likelyhood ).

- One or more of the wires to the motor has been disconnected or has a bad solder joint
- One or more of the motor wires is cut or broken
- The Throttle range is not sufficient enough to arm the ESC.
- The ESC has been damaged

When faced with the above my first move would be to REMOVE the heat shrink from the motor connectors and check continuity with a meter between the motor wires and the ESC circuit board one at a time.

You should have installed bullet plug connectors between the ESC and the motor.

Start by disconnecting these and putting a meter on a plug and the solder point on the ESC.

If you fail to get continuity you've found the problem.

If this works, pull the motor, hook it to the ESC, and check the continuity between the motor itself at each wire's entry point, all the way back to the ESC.

Any failures undicate the problem.

If this works, time to get a new ESC.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...OLS/Categories
Well if you dont figure it out, this guy has good prices and service you'll have it in a couple days not weeks...Rog