Nitro equates to heat in an engine, so it helps in breakin, so by that account yes it helps the longevity of the engine....but once you get higher than about a .15 %5-10 should be fine.....the smaller engines are often softer metals and only run for minutes, and often by the time it hits the ground its cooled down anyway..depends on whether its a racer or a floater...Rog

i run 0% in my .40 sized 2 strokes, some of them i can tell no difference (w/o looking at a tach), they run the exact same as they do w/ 5%-15% (gms.47, os .40fp, os.46la, magnum.40 gpa)
my gms .47 will idle at 1800-2000 rpm on 0% nitro all day long.
others like my ax55 you can tell its lagging a bit 0%
new enginess dont like 0% as much. my new mangums (2 .46's and a .52) run on 0% but dont idle perfectly or have good throttle response, however the more i run them the better they get, when i throw 5% in them its a noticible difference, but give them a few gallons and they wont mind the 0%.
my magnum .52 4 stroke would run on 0%, the idle was is a little high at 3000 rpms, it likes the 5% much better (idleing around 2200 rpm)


as for more nitro wearing out your engines faster, unless you have predetonation issues (the engine is fireing before the piston gets to the top of its stroke), it would make such a tiny difference (if any at all) between 0% and 15%

This is incorrect, Nitro runs cooler than methonal alone.

Gasoline provides 18,000 BTU/pound. Methonal 8600 BTU/pound, Nitromethane provides 5,000 BTU/pound. The amount of nitromethane also provides some cooling, making the charge a bit denser and increasing power.

I have used 3 in 1 oil on all my OS but never thought of the gun oil it would thin! I will try it thank you!

Mobile one works great in any non-pumped engine. Never use any after run oil in a pumped eng like the OS and YS. The oil will attack certain parts in the pump.

I have always used transmission oil and marvel mystery oil 50-50 on all my non OS and a light oil like 3 in 1 for my OS I have no YS engines! But should not use even the 3 in 1 on the OS? Thanks Bob

If you want to use mystery oil, get the air tool oil, it has rust inhibitors that regular marvel mystery oil does not. Air tool oil alone works well. No real reason to mix it with ATF. Ask 50 guys what they use and you'll likely get 50 different answers on what to use. The best idea (IMHO) is to run the engine completely dry at the end of the day unless you're going to fly again in the next few days.

Drain the fuel from the tank, place the engine at normal start throttle and try to start the engine. Continue to do this untill the engine refuses to even pop. NOW add a bit of after run oil and spin the engine over by hand.

Long storage is a bit more oil and plug the muffler outlet and intake with a paper towel or plastic. The idea is to keep humidity out of the engine.

Does Nitro %age no matter 5% to 20% make any difference on the 2 Cycle engine either with Bushing or Ball Bearing?

Mody

Thanks Mastertech, I have been using that methed for a long time, learned from an old RCer but this old dog does not mind learning a new trick! thanks again! Bob

Hi,
I drain the tank, run the engine DRY to make certain there is no fuel in the crankcase, use a short length of ALUMINUM tubing to couple the feed line and the pressure line together, then use a few squirts of Air-Tool oil in the carb. Flip the prop a few times and put a paper towel plug into the Carb opening and another paper plug in the Exhaust. I then CLEAN my models with 409 Spray. My Van is clean and there are No Drips from the exhaust port.

WHY ALUMINUM Tube ? Check your old fuel tanks that have Brass tubes, if there is any fuel inside the tank, it turns GREEN from the brass pick up clunk and the brass tubes. I still use the brass Clunk, but all tubes are aluminum and I always DRAIN the fuel back through a filter into my fuel jug.
Ken

it gives you slightly more power, maybe 250-1000 rpm depending on how much you add.
that is a given for all sport engines (os,gms,tt,th,jba,sk,magnum,evo,ect) some st engines do not like above 5% nitro
on some engines it improves the idle (lowers it, makes it more reliable), on others it doesnt make a noticible improvement

on bushing engines the nitro advantages are not as noticible. due to the fact they tend to be ported much differently.

thats about all nitro does for you besides break the bank.
a gallon of nitro costs about 60-80 bucks depending on the market
a gallon of oil cost 20-25 a gallon
a gallon of methanol costs 3 bucks a gallon.
useing those prices, asumbing we are mixing 10% nitro heres what each individual ingrediant would cost
60*.10=$6 for nitro
25*.18=$4.5 for oil
3*.72= $2.16 for methanol
so nitro is by far the most expensive thing in our fuel.

im mixing my own fuel, 0% nitro, 16% castor oil, for 7 a gallon. if i add 5% nitro its about 10 bucks. thats all i will ever need, no sense in paying 15-20 bucks for a gallon at the hobbyshop

A gallon of 15% nitro at LHS I paid nearly $20 to $22, which ain't bad, and by using 10% nitro a gallon fuel would be less than that. I'd have to look up the option to make your own fuel if it costs less if it doesn't make any substantial difference that it ain't worth it making your own, just go and buy from your LHS.

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There is no one correct amount of nitro to use in 2 stroke motors. It depends on the size of the engine, and the altitude of the field you fly at. If you run smaller sized 2 strokes ie: .25- .60 ci then 10-15% nitro is probably ok. If you run a bigger 2 stroke like a moki 1.8 or 2.1 then 5% nitro should be fine. You can increase nitro for higher elevations such as Colorado where I fly. The air is thinner than sea level, so a little extra nitro helps ignition and idle. I use 7.5% nitro for my moki engines. I have tested RPM'S with different amounts of nitro and found that anything above 7.5% nitro makes no difference in power in my moki engines. The O.S engines up here all run well on 15% nitro- most being in the .40-.50 size range. My advice is to experiment for your needs and stick with what works! Good luck.

Is it some sorta advertizing or desperate cutting-edge marketing you are trying to do over here in this forum where I don't see it makes any sense. Would you mind explaining it to us?

That is correct. It runs so cool that the AA fuel dragster engines do not even have a cooling jacket, nor cooling fins, the incoming charge of nitro and air is all of the cooling it needs.

That said when run lean nitro will detonate and overheat the engine much faster than a lean run on methanol

To all Please ignore this post which I'm pasting underneath in bold, it did not mean for you, I saw some kind of junk in the forum from china so I replied back to it. Sorry and please ignore it Thank you

Is it some sorta advertizing or desperate cutting-edge marketing you are trying to do over here in this forum where I don't see it makes any sense. Would you mind explaining it to us?

I ain't wore out an engine yet. Been flying for 33 years. I must say the engines have not been in my planes that long but. Run what ya brung. It all does the same thing. If you are going for a record then play the fuel/prop/power game.

I am going to disagree... been flying for a while.. I noticed how grungy my fuel looked as I pumped the unused Glow fuel back into the one gallon jug. By the time I used up the gallon of fuel and got to the bottom of the jug, the "new" fuel was really dirty...

Currently, as the engine runs the black carbon from the engine exhaust is being blown from the muffler back into the tank to pressurize it. This black carbon is a potential source of engine wear in my thinking. Combining this fuel with black carbon in it with my pristine new fuel was abhorrent to me.

My solution is to pump all the unused fuel out of the airplane's tank at the end of the day into a separate "used fuel" container. Next flying day, I pump the "used fuel" back into the airplane's fuel tank and then switch to new fuel to top off the tank. This way, I am using up the "bad" fuel as I go and my fresh fuel always looks brand new. The "bad fuel" never gets as dark as the old method. How can that not be better? I am never running fuel that looks as bad as when pumping the unused fuel back into the new fuel container.

It works for me..

Armody,

Why are you going to reduce nitro for summer flying? Is it a cost thing?

FYI. Higher nitro buys quite a bit in the heat of the summer when air is thinner due to heat and humidity, both of which reduce the available oxygen the engine needs. If you are flying trainers it won't matter that much. But when you start flying higher performance planes it makes a considerable difference

Do run the engine dry after every flying session. If you use brass tubing in your tank, make sure you don't store fuel in it long term. Brass and methanol will react over time and will generate acetic acid (vinegar). This acid is responsible for corrosion in your engines. If you have ever taken a tank apart after it's laid up for a year, you can smell the vinegar. BTW, it's a good idea to open thetank after every couple years and replace the silicone rubber line to the clunk...inspect the brass tubing for greenish residue. If you see any, replace the brass. Use plastic tubing if possible. Nylon or polyethylene are great to use in the tank

If you are not going flying for a few weeks, it's a good idea to use after run oil in the engine. I use good ol castor oil when I store my engines for the winter. About 10 drops is all it takes. Turn the prop to distribute. Another great after run oil is Marvel Mystery Oil

MattK

Hello MTK,

The plane I'm using currently is Hangar 9's P51 Mustang PTS MKII, everything is the same there except for RX and TX. It has Evolution engine PTS which is around .45 ci. Infact I have not found any problem with it running as I'm using 15% Nitro mixed fuel. I had a plan to fly tomorrow, but there is a weather advisory saying the wind may reach upto 22Mph so, [:@][:@][:@] tomorrow I won't be able to fly.

My second plane is Great Planes Escapade ARF, which I've completed almost 70% and as I should have had my engine JBA .56 2 Stroke, as per e-mail of the owner that it's been lost in shipping by USPS, so he said he's gonna send me another engine which I'm supposed to get this week prolly end of this week. First thing I gotta do with that engine is to break in which I was told over here by senior member that for break in I gotta use 10% Nitro and prolly 11X6 engine for more rpm and gotta run at least 3 tanks, then it would start running better and I guess am not sure, after 8 tanks I would start running it lean with 15% Nitro. Well summer is about to arrive but outta blue winter kicked back in and Temperature is in 30's now. Anyway, Do I have to continue with 15% or go for 10% as nasty heat of Texas is coming up.

Thanks

Mody