hello. im about ready to start covering, and i was wondering. is there a difference between a monocote iron, and a ultracote iron? is there a difference in temp range, and does one iron cover those temps? also, do i need any other irons? ive seen trim irons, but the vidoes ive been studying on here dont use trim irons. thanks for the help everyone.

The iron will work with both Monokote and Ultracote. Just adjust the temperature as needed. As far as a trim iton, I use one on the smaller corners and such.

An iron is an iron. There can be a temperature difference from iron to iron too and you can't go by what the true temp is by the little dial, you get used to the iron you have over time and use. My old iron gave up the ghost and I still haven't gotten used to my new one. I use the heck out of my trim iron too but it's not a must have item. They come in handy though.

I have the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXB361&P=ML]Coverite 21st Century Sealing Iron[/link] and love the temperature adjustment. I bought the matching trim iron and was disappointed with it's performance. I use a [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ28&P=ML]Top Flite Trim Seal Tool[/link] for detail work.

Stan

Most of the irons out today will handle both Monokote and Ultracoat. Every iron is a little bit different, even irons from the same manufacturer. The best thing is to learn your own iron and where to set it for each type of covering. Get a pocket thermometer to accurately set the temps on your iron. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXB352&P=7  Also, learn how each type of covering is worked BEFORE you start actually covering a plane. Practice using is on scrap materails before you start working it on the plane.

Ken

This could be a blessing or a curse, but the Hangar 9 iron http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=HAN135 has a twelve foot power cord.

The 21st century iron http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB361&P=0 has a five foot cord. This is the one I have and sometimes I think I'd prefer a longer cord.

I like the Hangar 9 iron as it has the longer cord and is real close on the temp settings. It will do both coverings. I have gotten so used to my trim tools that I can't cover with out them. I think they are well worth the money. Good Luck, Dave

My old iron was the Horizon unit. When it burnt out I happen to have one of the old style Hobbicos with the wood handle NIB. It's kind of cluncky compared to my old Horizon and it's taken some time to know where the heat should be set but I finally got it figured out. My Trim iron fell off the bench and the thin shoe broke and they have no replacements for that. I will have to replace that iron soon.

ok, thanks for the information. now, do i need a boot for the iron? also, i have an infrared thermometer, will that be ok to check temp on the iron? i know i have another question, but just cant think of it right now.  oh, ok, remembered. this is an engine mount question. is it possible that the mount isnt straight? i remember reading on here about right thrust being built in, could this be the case with my engine mount? i measured the engine to the firewall, and i got less gap on the right side than the left. this engine is so tight in the mount, there is no room for left/right movement, so im hoping this is this "right thrust" im hearing about. thanks again.

Any accurate thermometer is fine. I use the "socks" but a lot of people prefer not using them. You can buy white cotton socks in the baby dept of Wal-Mart for a very low price and they aswell as the stuff from the hobby shop. I've heard of using the fingers from cotton gloves on trim irons but have never tried it.

I've never heard of an engine mount built to create right thrust but anything is possible. How about some specifics of what you actually have?

its a midwest aerostar 60 its old, the date on the instructions is 1987. from what i understand, its still made, and i got it for a really good price, so i got it. it looks straight, but i put a screwdriver between the back of the engine, and the back of the mount, to make sure i could get fuel line through there as per the instructions, and i noticed the gap difference. like i said before, the engine fits very tight in the mount, so there is no right/left movement,  but you can slide the engine barely from the front to back of the mount. thanks for taking the time to read this and give me some help with this. i need to make sure this is right so i can learn to fly with the least amount of problems.

You definitely want the engine to be snug between the mount rails. From what you're describing I think you are seeing the "right thrust" and everything is normal.

What you will find the trim iron useful for is sealing down loose pieces of covering or trim in tight spots, once you have completed your plane and started using it. Or, if you need to make a repair or patch which gets in between the control surfaces. I bought one at a swap meet, but didn't think I would use it much. I was suprised how much I did use it.

ok, well, ill just hope that the mount is giving me the right thrust, ill read through the rest of the instructions, maybe itll say that. just dont understand why it would need that, unless at full throttle the engine torques to the left because of crank spin. but anyways, thanks for all the good info. glad i have a place to go to ask. im sure ill have more questions in the very near future. thanks again all.

Actually i believe the plane torques to the left because of P-factor or prop-factor not crank-spin factor.

skeeter