I have a Spektrum DX7. When it becomes availeable (in stock) i'm planning to upgrade to the new JR 11X. I figure I need to individually input in all the programs for each individual plane and helicopters. I'm not planning to change out the RX - only the TX.

Question: if the DX7 has 5 clicks LT on the Aileron - when I get the New JR 11X and give it 5 clicks LT on the Aileron would the outcome on the servo be the same? Can I just input the same settings as the DX7 for the JR 11X? Or, do I have to start over?

LT meaning left trim?

I would imagine that it depends on the resolution of one transmitter over the other and if the receiver is capable of handling that. Do you know if the two are compatible, meaning is the old RX ok with the new TX?

CGr.

CG is correct... resolution is the answer... DX7 has 1024, the JR has 2048bit resolution... so it wont be the same... theoretically 2clicks on the JR would be proportional to one click on your DX7... if you need to know why I say this I can draw a pic to explain...

In all honesty, trying to dial in the trim settings for each plane could actually cause more problems than it may solve. You're best bet is going to be simply flying a trim flight for each plane and re-trimming out the plane. Once you have the plane trimmed out you should then work with each plane to mechanically adjust the plane so that they trim on the radio is as close to neutral as possible. If you do this for each plane then moving a plane to another radio in the future will not be an issue since the plane itself will be in trim and not need the radio settings to trim it out.

Ken

Thats what i just did. Before i changed anything i turned on old Tx and measured all the control surfaces and noted them down on paper. What each was when in trim. and at max. Then changed over. had all new 2.4G TX and Rx. Every thing needed reprogrammed. Exp, end points. etc etc but when done rechecked the control surfaces to sub tim and they all flew great just a click here or thier of four planes.
Rich

The best way I have found to do it is to mechanically trim the plane in the begining (adjusting the clevises on the control horns) after the initial trim flight so the trim levers are always set to zero. I find it takes an average of two-three trim flights before I have the plane mechanically in trim. Then when I move to a new transmitter I know the plane is basically in trim with only minor if any trim adjustments needed. This past winter I got a new Futaba 8FG and it was easy to move a number of planes over to it from my 7C Fasst system because they all were in mechanical trim.

BTW, in the days before computer radios all trim levers were mechanical and could easily moved between flying sessions so it was necessay to mechanically trim the plane if you did not want a unhappy surprise on the first flight of the day.

Bruce

First yes the old RX's will work with the new radio.

Second YES you CAN make the trim steps work in the same manner. You will merely have to manually find the setting in the new radio "Trim Steps" page that gives you the same equivalence of the old radio.

When you are going to a higher resolution system, you'll normally find all you have to do is double the number of steps.

I've taken configurations over by hand from one radio to another JR this way, and have not had to perform ANY additional trimming on the new TX.

Otherwise you can merely copy the settings from one TX into the other..

I had about 6 planes when I change from a D7 to DSM9. I found the easiest process was to place the plane on a flat surface and using the old radio measure all the control surfaces with a ruler with respect to the flat surface and writing down the data. I measured neutral deflection, full up, full down, full left and right. Then I would set up the new radio and bind, then using a ruler and the data, adjust the trim accordingly. It was NOT perfect, but it did give a great starting point.

Or, before you switch transmitters, remove all the electronic trims by making manual linkage adjustments . . . which you should do anyway. When I get bored in February I cancel out all my sub-trim settings by doing it "the old way" and adjusting the linkages in order to zero the sub-trims.

Yeah, Charlie. This should be a normal part of the initial setup and part of the focus on the first several flights for a new plane. Once trim is added, it should be subtracted out mechanically so that your trims on the radio are as close to 0 or centered as possible.

I spent some time with my Goldberg Skylark 70 but could never get it exactly right until the "club pro" worked with me for about an hour one day. Now that plane flys like a pattern plane.. after take off, minor trim for the set throttle level, then hands off and it flys straight as an arrow. Then I pull on the elevator and go straight up with hands off and it goes straight up with no input. Inverted flight uses a very slight up pressure on the stick and it too goes straight as an arrow.

So, as also suggested in other replies, spend a little time with the mechanical trim to get the radio transmitter sticks as close to centered as possible with the plane in full and just about perfect trim and you will never have to worry about changing out transmitters.

CGr.

Thanks for all the answers.