This is a good point. I would imagine that higher current applications, such as high-torque 3D, or high G maneuvers that have servos "wanting to hold" the elevator or rudder in a certain position for "long periods of time" will be the ones that draw the most current.

By warm, I think warm to the touch, to the point where we actually note the warm - to - hot feel of battery leads is approaching a point where perhaps larger wires may be needed. But, how would we do that for battery packs that come ready-made with wires attached? Of course, we can make our own, but that's more for an experienced person that has good soldering knowledge and techniques.

CGr.

Early RC (before Proportional) required the hobbyist to know how to do most of the radio interconnect and dig out the iron to finish the job. Things stabilized in the mid-60's to plug and play. But with all the various types of models and radio equipment today, we are back to the wild west again.

Short, small gage wire can carry some really large current draws, mainly because of the low resistance. A good example is the wires to the brushes in a large Router motor. There is high current draw there, but the brush wires are so short, there is very little resistance. The resistance is what causes a wire to heat up and burn out, or in our case heat up, increasing the resistance and lowering the voltage at the load end. The use of a larger gage wire on long runs reduces the overall resistance of the wire. The same is true in your house wiring. 14ga is standard for 15A outlets and lights, but when you reach a long run, somewhere around 80ft, the code calls for a larger gage wire, IE12 gage. There is alsoa limit on the drops, IEoutlets or switches , on a run because each of them add an amount of resistance. Servo leads are the same, The more extension plugs along the path, the more voltage drop at the servo. I'm not sure any of our stuff though requires 18ga wire.

Don