When is it okay to go bigger?
#26
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
I have to disagree with the most recent post about being more of a pain to fly the bigger ones. I, within the last year, came into a good deal on an 1/4 scale aerobatic bird. I have flown only .40 - .60 sized glow planes in the past 20 years or so. If I'm pressed for time I take the bigger airplane. Either way I have to bolt the wings on, fuel, and fly. The big difference is when it's time to break down. I really enjoy not having to cary the cleaning equipment and taking the time to clean the mess off of the glow planes. The fuel is obviously much less expensive too.
Like I was saying that I got into it because I found a good deal and there are good deal to be had so it doesn't need to be that expensive to get into. I got a 1/4 scale sukhoi 31 RX ready for $500 bucks. You can easily spend that much on a glow plane.
The flying is different. Most are saying that flying the larger planes are easier to fly and this is mostly true. The only thing about it is that a small error causes alot more damage and cost alot more money to repair. For instance I see alot of the new to gas guys breaking alot of props. The props wind up costing at least 20 bucks a peice. I actually find the bigger planes a little (not much) harder to land untill you get used to it.
Whether you are actually ready for it, only you know that. I agree with the saying " only fly what you can afford two of." At the end of the day if you don't wreck the plane I think you will enjoy flying the bigger planes better.
Like I was saying that I got into it because I found a good deal and there are good deal to be had so it doesn't need to be that expensive to get into. I got a 1/4 scale sukhoi 31 RX ready for $500 bucks. You can easily spend that much on a glow plane.
The flying is different. Most are saying that flying the larger planes are easier to fly and this is mostly true. The only thing about it is that a small error causes alot more damage and cost alot more money to repair. For instance I see alot of the new to gas guys breaking alot of props. The props wind up costing at least 20 bucks a peice. I actually find the bigger planes a little (not much) harder to land untill you get used to it.
Whether you are actually ready for it, only you know that. I agree with the saying " only fly what you can afford two of." At the end of the day if you don't wreck the plane I think you will enjoy flying the bigger planes better.
#27

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Yes you have made some very good points on the gas verses glow, I was once thinking bigger to go gas! But the gas engines are now getting smaller and looks like we will get them for the sixty size and even the forty size! Both sizes are offered now in gas, I think what it will amount to is we just all have to fly what we can afford or have room for. The smaller gas engines excite me allot, Because you are right glow fuel is getting out of hand on price and even a big spark plug is cheaper then that lttle tiny glow plug! So I am very much with you on the gas verses glow, you win that point hands down!
#28

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My advise is to skip all the 25-28% BS and go straight to 30% or larger. The wing loadings are MUCH better at this size. I went straight from 1 year of flying 40 size planes to 30% DLE-55 gasser. I LOVE IT! The power and lack of mess and crap you need to bring to the field will make you smile.
#29

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From: Greenville, SC
ORIGINAL: albsurfer
victorzamora, I disagree about Aeroworks weights. They are pretty light-weight in the 1.20 and lower categories. The problem is that the airframes will come apart if crashed or wingtips hit the ground during flight easier. Take a look at comparable wingspans, lengths, and weights of GP, Phoenix Models, and Seagull Models planes. I have the GP Extra 300 SP which has a 55'' wingspan. The aeroworks .46-.61 Edge is 5.5 lbs with a 60'' wingspan and will fly great aerobatics with a .46 TT Pro, .46AX, ST .45, and more. It will 3D with a .55AX or a .61 of almost any MFR. BUT... if you crash, there is usually more damage to the Aeroworks frame & wings because of airframe and wing lightening of weight.
Also, Heavy Metal Thunder & PMD have very good points. Research what they have said in this forum.
ORIGINAL: victorzamora
My biggest plane was the Aeroworks 60/90 Extra 260 until Christmas this past year when I got my 88'' Extreme Flight Edge. It's more nerve-racking to fly, and I've been into 3D and IMAC for a while.
If you're just wanting to do sport flying, the big planes really won't fly that much better. There's nothing impressive that a 150cc plane will do in the world of sport flying compared to a 40-sized Ultra Stick. The only difference is size and awe. I mean, I just think that if you're only doing sport flying....then ego is the only reason to get a big plane.
Also, stay away from Aeroworks. They're pretty and easy to build, but they're heavy and fly relatively poorly. None of their planes make weight, and they're all snappy (confirmed up to 50cc).
My biggest plane was the Aeroworks 60/90 Extra 260 until Christmas this past year when I got my 88'' Extreme Flight Edge. It's more nerve-racking to fly, and I've been into 3D and IMAC for a while.
If you're just wanting to do sport flying, the big planes really won't fly that much better. There's nothing impressive that a 150cc plane will do in the world of sport flying compared to a 40-sized Ultra Stick. The only difference is size and awe. I mean, I just think that if you're only doing sport flying....then ego is the only reason to get a big plane.
Also, stay away from Aeroworks. They're pretty and easy to build, but they're heavy and fly relatively poorly. None of their planes make weight, and they're all snappy (confirmed up to 50cc).
Also, Heavy Metal Thunder & PMD have very good points. Research what they have said in this forum.
#30

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From: Greenville, SC
And Paully, the main thing about flying a bigger plane is to not let them psyche you out. If you're afraid of it, you'll do something stupid. But if your approaches and landings are good with your Pulse XT40 (the best 40 plane I've ever flown, I love it!). Big planes just take up more sky and make your knees knock because your wallet is afraid of crashing. Get a good set-up, build it well, have an experienced guy help you with the motor AND look it over, and do frequent preventative maintenance. Do those simple steps and you'll be just dandy. Just...dont' be afraid of the big ones. Remember, they're still just R/C planes....the same sticks control the same things, this one is just bigger.
Do you have any plans for a set-up? A good set-up is your first step towards success
Edit: I totally agree with Eganwp, there's no reason to go 25-28%. They're about the same price and don't fly nearly as well.
Do you have any plans for a set-up? A good set-up is your first step towards success
Edit: I totally agree with Eganwp, there's no reason to go 25-28%. They're about the same price and don't fly nearly as well.
#31
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From: Plainfield, IL
I'd love recommendations on a plane/setup. I was set on that Aeroworks, but it sounds like that might not be a good idea.
I plan to ask around to see if there are any used ones for sale at my club, but if not...What should I get?
I plan to ask around to see if there are any used ones for sale at my club, but if not...What should I get?
#32

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From: Greenville, SC
It all depends on what you want to do with it, and what kind of plane you want. I had a bad experience with Dietrich/TopDawg. Aeroworks is heavy (read other threads, you'll see it's more than just me saying it) but if you don't feel like you'll EVER want to give a hard elevator input of any kind (like recovering from an ugly snap) then they'll be just fine (but still not worth the cost, to me). Extreme Flight is really nice, but they're a little costly. 3DHobby Shop really is nice, but they're a little costly. Peakmodels is cheaper and I've heard good things, hardware isn't the best...but it's mostly usable. Pilot-RC are good planes that are an up-and-coming company...I've heard good things. I can't think of other planes, but that should give you a good start of what to look at....but if you're just doing sport flying, pick the plane that you like the look of. I prefer Edges because of their 3D capabilities, but Extras fly smoother but don't 3D as well. Yaks fly a little smoother than Edges, and 3D better than Extras...kind of a 'tweener plane.
On set-up, go for what you can afford. I'd get one of 3 motors: MT70, DA60, DLE55 (in no particular order). Servos, I'd get an 8611/7955 for the rudder and then 8411's or PowerHD servos on ail and ele. Of course, metal arms (I like MPI) all around. Any standard servo will work on throttle. You can get a choke servo OR run a manual choke arm. I like the manual choke arm, less issues. In fact, my choke servo gave me FITS and would simply refuse to work. Caused a premature plug fouling and caused me to lose my engine mid-flight. Battery: depends on your charger. I like A123 and you can get an A123 compatible charger from Hobbyking for $30. Your ignition battery should be either 800mAh nimh pack or a lipo/reg. I have a lipo/reg just because I had it around the house (and you get more capacity per weight). You could also get an IBEF or Zeus instead. You'll need a kill switch for sure. Switches: you'll need a nice switch on your Rx. MPI has fail-on switches with built-in charge jacks. Fromeco Badgers/Wolverines are pretty fail-on switches with built-in charge jacks (I have a badger). The EMS switches on Tower are nice, too. Forget about a power expander, there's no need. Two receiver batteries might be worth it to you since you're doing sport flying, but I've got 1. You don't need 2 receivers...there's just no point. There are lots of pretty fuel dots out there. I like a 3-line setup with the fill line copper either curling under itself onto the bottom/front of the tank or just barely peaking through the stopper (that way you put the plane on its nose and can get all the fuel out. Remember to use lots of Loctite and loop your vent line over your tank and then run it out the bottom. Besides that, it's just a big ARF.
On set-up, go for what you can afford. I'd get one of 3 motors: MT70, DA60, DLE55 (in no particular order). Servos, I'd get an 8611/7955 for the rudder and then 8411's or PowerHD servos on ail and ele. Of course, metal arms (I like MPI) all around. Any standard servo will work on throttle. You can get a choke servo OR run a manual choke arm. I like the manual choke arm, less issues. In fact, my choke servo gave me FITS and would simply refuse to work. Caused a premature plug fouling and caused me to lose my engine mid-flight. Battery: depends on your charger. I like A123 and you can get an A123 compatible charger from Hobbyking for $30. Your ignition battery should be either 800mAh nimh pack or a lipo/reg. I have a lipo/reg just because I had it around the house (and you get more capacity per weight). You could also get an IBEF or Zeus instead. You'll need a kill switch for sure. Switches: you'll need a nice switch on your Rx. MPI has fail-on switches with built-in charge jacks. Fromeco Badgers/Wolverines are pretty fail-on switches with built-in charge jacks (I have a badger). The EMS switches on Tower are nice, too. Forget about a power expander, there's no need. Two receiver batteries might be worth it to you since you're doing sport flying, but I've got 1. You don't need 2 receivers...there's just no point. There are lots of pretty fuel dots out there. I like a 3-line setup with the fill line copper either curling under itself onto the bottom/front of the tank or just barely peaking through the stopper (that way you put the plane on its nose and can get all the fuel out. Remember to use lots of Loctite and loop your vent line over your tank and then run it out the bottom. Besides that, it's just a big ARF.
#33

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If you just want to fly a bigger sport plane, not looking for hard core 3D, I'm not sure of the logic in back of going with some of these (50cc +) suggestions? They're expensive, and from what I've seen, they can be a little over the top for somebody just looking for sport performance. I would suggest you look at the 4*, the Giant Sportster, or something similar in the 26 to 35cc, 1000-1100+ sq. in. range. This size is about half the price of a 50cc. Then set it up nice and simple like you would a .60 size - just make sure to use metal gear servos. Maybe get something that size under your belt? Some of the rear carb config engines in this class will not leave you disappointed regarding performance..... Unlimited vertical pretty easily achieved with them.
#35
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From: Cusseta,
AL
I made the swap when i got a busted up old sweet-n-low (WS 86ish) and i rebuilt it. sounds like you fly about like I do. JUst your basic maneuvers and rolls, split S's and stuff. I love the big planes. I think they fly better. The smaller ones seem really squirrelly to me now. I've always wanted big planes just because. I haven't changed my style or anything, so the transition wasn't a big deal. The one thing I did notice was I was a lot more nervous. I still get nervous from time to time. I guess what I'm trying to say is the swap over is when it becomes available or you just decide to do it. That's my .02 worth. I don't know that I helped any with that rambling
#36

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"If it ever crashes, there will be a 6' deep crater and the plane will be laying intact in the bottom of it!"
Best laugh I've had in weeks! Thank you!
My first "big" plane was the WM GS Zero. The poor beast had to live through my transition from "gliding" in for a landing with a 5 pound plane to "powering" into the landing with a 15 pound plane.
It had a rough childhood......
Best laugh I've had in weeks! Thank you!
My first "big" plane was the WM GS Zero. The poor beast had to live through my transition from "gliding" in for a landing with a 5 pound plane to "powering" into the landing with a 15 pound plane.
It had a rough childhood......
#37

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From: Rye Brook,
NY
Sounds like you're ready...I say Go For It! They offer a special kind of fun in their own way IMO.
One item that has to comply...is your method of transportation!
No longer can you arrive at the field in your compact, with various wingtips and chunks of foam poking out the windows!
One item that has to comply...is your method of transportation!
No longer can you arrive at the field in your compact, with various wingtips and chunks of foam poking out the windows!
#38
Senior Member
When I go for a big plane it will be 100% scale and I can sit inside it.
</p>But for RC controlled planes I like anything smaller than 1.8 or 28cc which translates into <2m wingspan and <2m total lenght.</p>
Any bigger and I run into storage space problems, increasing the "hanger rash" which I would prefer to avoid on large scale models.
the cost is another unattractive aspect.
But my opinion on "When is it ok to go bigger?" is whenever you are comfortable with flying confidently everytime. There is no time to think about the cost of the bird.
I have decided to progress from 10e Electric through to .40 to 0.60, to 1.20 size glow before moving up to 28cc, >70" wingspan.
No particular reason other than cost and comfort.
Smaller planes are cheaper to replace, easier to transport and easier to repair. Large aircraft or more sensitive to proper repair work meaning after a crash you have to rebuild correctly sice they are built much closer to the lowest factor of safety (1) in the interest of performance.
In myhanger I would like to see
1 x Pilot Rc Extra 260 26%
1x Aero Model Giles 202 1.2
and many 04. to 0.6 size sport and scale flyers since these I'll spend most time with. Cheaper, quicker and easier to get into the air and they're just plain unadulterated fun!

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