![]() |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ya i got it. prety shure it just needs a little adjustment. like I said once I get that stand made I will get to tuning it and Ill post here if I need any further help.
thanks for your help bruce, your a god send for us newbies. |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
OK, keep me in mind.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Sarges,
Go easy, we know your frustrated. :) I was just looking at the specs on that engine. In the GP series they only show a .42 so assuming that is the engine we are talking about. If you already do not know, on almost all glow engines, the Air Bleed/Low Speed needle is controlling the mixture from idle to mid-throttle, from that point the high speed needle takes over. I agree, being that you cannot run anything below half throttle you are lean. If it was sloppy rich it would run but either die from being flooded after a few seconds and most likely spitting fuel when you throttle up from idle, but being lean would kill the engine pretty quickly once the Air Bleed screw takes effect coming down from full throttle or going to half throttle or better from idle without spitting fuel. I found this from a thread a year or so back on setting the Air Bleed Screw. Although he mentions the OS engines the thread was on the TT42GP take a look in the air bleed hole. The screw should be 1/2 the way across the hole to start with. No two carbs are going to be the same, so 2 turns may or may not be right. Half the hole covered is where most air bleed carbs are set to start with. Adjust it from there to get the best idle mixture. I've had a few OS FP's that I had to drill the hole out. I wasn't big enough to get it to lean out right. Just a thought. On an Air Bleed, turning the screw out leans the engine while turning it in richens it. You are actually adjusting air, not fuel. This was mentioned before but I thought I would reiterate it. After reading tons of posts on this engine, it being tight at TDC seems to be pretty normal and once it is broken in it will last for ever and the tightness will not be as bad. If you have already tried this or I am being to redundant, just ignore this post |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
thanks buba gates.
I went out to mess wit it today (it was on the plane) and got it to idle with out going any where. I got it to throttle down to where if you looked down in the carb there is just a tiny little hole any littler and it will promptly die from the sputters. thanks for teh help. now all I gota do is adjust those z-bends so that the control surfaces dont need so much trim (dang aleron needs full right trim tab plus I got to hold the stick over a little to keep them level) then I can confidently go to the flying field and know all my bases are covered. That way I can concentrait on flying the model (and not crashing it). I would be still tuning it but the hot shot 2's battery got to weak to start the last time. so its been on teh charger for atleast a hour. |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
People spend thousands of dollars on their planes
buy all the gear like starters and electric fuel pumps buy all the spares that you can afford and go to the Dollar Bargin Bins to buy tools you will not strip a nut with the correct tool ( ring spanners) an adjustable spanner has no place in a modelers toolkit |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Very cool Sarges
You mentioned about adjusting the z-bends. I hope you really me the clevises. These are the little plastic/metal peices at the end of the rod usually out at the surface. The way I do this is to turn the radio and airplane on and have the trims where then need to be and measure how much the surface is deflected. The I center the trim and turn the clevis until it gets the same deflection. Work slowly and methodically on all of the surfaces and you will be able to get the trims centered well and can concentrate on flying. A good rule of thumb is if you need to rasie the surface you turn the clevis towards the surface and to lower the surface you turn the clevis away from the surface |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ORIGINAL: Cazarak People spend thousands of dollars on their planes buy all the gear like starters and electric fuel pumps buy all the spares that you can afford and go to the Dollar Bargin Bins to buy tools you will not strip a nut with the correct tool ( ring spanners) an adjustable spanner has no place in a modelers toolkit |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ORIGINAL: bubbagates Very cool Sarges You mentioned about adjusting the z-bends. I hope you really me the clevises. These are the little plastic/metal peices at the end of the rod usually out at the surface. The way I do this is to turn the radio and airplane on and have the trims where then need to be and measure how much the surface is deflected. The I center the trim and turn the clevis until it gets the same deflection. Work slowly and methodically on all of the surfaces and you will be able to get the trims centered well and can concentrate on flying. A good rule of thumb is if you need to rasie the surface you turn the clevis towards the surface and to lower the surface you turn the clevis away from the surface nener nener I got a reason to go to tower!!:) |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Good to see motor is running now.
As for ailerons, forgive me if I repeat what you already know, OK? 1. Turn on radios and center ail trim control 2. Make sure ail servo horn is centered (perpendicular to case) if not remove center screw, lift off horn/arm and adjust to center (may need to rotate to new position completely). reinstall horn and screw 3. turn off radio for now. If at any time you think you may have moved servo, turn radio back on and allow it to recenter itself. 4. Measure and mfg pushrods to fit between servo and aileron torque rods. Put clevis at torque rod end. MinnFlyer- I bet you have a nifty picture you can post for him of this. 5. Make sure both ailerons are in same relative position to wing (up/down), may be able to reference to a wingtip or something else static. Attached are links of hardware you could use, there are other types also but these would work good on a trainer. Wire would only require one simple cut and a 90 degree bend, not a z-bend. Your choice, I'm sure more options will be offered. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=0 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...78&FVPROFIL=++ Good luck Bruce[:) |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ABC engine sucked competely!! no offense but i had one of tower hobbies abc .46 engine, and i bolted it on tower hobbies fun 51. At first, it run just fine but more and more i pushed the aircraft to the limit such as hard snap rolls and aerobatics moves with heavy G pulls. the engine seem to hate me more every time I put it in the air. Just before i crashed on take off, the engine had to be on wide open trottle for whole time so it won't quit but every time, i land the engine quits and deadstick everytime. so i decide to dump the engine and replace with .50 ringed SX O.S. engine. I love that engine.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Don't blame ABC's because you got a bad engine from Tower. There are many threads complaining about Tower engines and there are some that have had no problems too. You don't say all cars are bad just because you bought a bad Yugo. (Yogo owners please don't take offense, I had to pick a name somewhere). Most ABC's are fine engines. I have several by OS. One might expect to get a better engine if you pay a little more money. Yugo vs. Cadillac... I also have an OS 50 SX and it is a fine engine, you will be happy with it. You may have noticed the higher price tag when you bought it. I'm sure Tower thinks they are selling a good engine, not owning one myself I can not speak of their quality personally. I wish you good flying in the future and watch your investments.[:o]
You may have run it too lean too. Bruce[; |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ABC engine sucked competely!! no offense but i had one of tower hobbies abc .46 engine, and i bolted it on tower hobbies fun 51. At first, it run just fine but more and more i pushed the aircraft to the limit such as hard snap rolls and aerobatics moves with heavy G pulls. the engine seem to hate me more every time I put it in the air. Just before i crashed on take off, the engine had to be on wide open trottle for whole time so it won't quit but every time, i land the engine quits and deadstick everytime. |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
hmm.........okay
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
well.......when i first got tower fun 51, i had this old O.S. .40 engine and it work great, never had any trouble with it. After a while, i decided to step up to more extreme stunts and need more power but ever since i bolted .46 ABC engine on it, it seemed not good engine for any reason and that engine is main cause of the crash. but now i fixed the fun 51 and has .50 O.S. and i didn't mind the little steep price tag and it works far better.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
by the way, thanks for your comments. :-) and sorry about giving ABC engines a bad name.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Your os 40 is also an ABC I believe, just smaller obviously. You didn't say which 40 you had. I have a K&B 40 ringed and it is strong and I have 2 K&B 61 with pumps and rings that are strong too but my various ABC's work fine too.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ORIGINAL: AltimaDude by the way, thanks for your comments. :-) and sorry about giving ABC engines a bad name. |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
well.......when i first got tower fun 51, i had this old O.S. .40 engine and it work great, never had any trouble with it. After a while, i decided to step up to more extreme stunts and need more power but ever since i bolted .46 ABC engine on it, it seemed not good engine for any reason and that engine is main cause of the crash. but now i fixed the fun 51 and has .50 O.S. and i didn't mind the little steep price tag and it works far better. In summary, two O.S. engines that ran great and one Tower engine that didn't. Not a lot of data to go on but I think you see a pattern beginning to form. ;) |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
so you are saying that all of my engines were and is an ABC type of engines? Hmm........my old .40 OS and they don't make it anymore. I don't have that engine with me right now but later, i can get you some infromation. and is Ringed is also a ABC type?
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Ringed engines are not ABC. OS makes the following in the 40-50 size range of 2 strokes:
40 LA BUSHED 46 LA BUSHED 40 FX BALL BEARING 46 AX BALL BEARING 50 SX RINGED BALL BEARING I prefer ball bearings, other than that the listed motors are fine. I have read stories of the LA's having problems at times, opinions- there are a million of them. Some of these are ABC and some are ABN, just a different plating on the cylinder wall. Either is fine. Need to determine your application and select the engine that best fits it and possible future use. Do not overpower my to large of a degree, speed is not everything. It is a lot, but not everything. Bruce[;) |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
ORIGINAL: ifixairplanes aw man if you think thats a disaster I can't wait to read your post when you crash! Sean No, you only need one of each and a six inch wrench. Get that nut TIGHT. Don't be afraid of breaking it, you won't. and i have to agree.... the S&H on a screw and washer just isnt justifyable.... u gotta buy a rx and a tx, couple bateries... maybe 5 gallons of flues... a new plane to start building while you look for that lost nut and washer and while your at it... just forget the washer and nut... buy another engine too :D... and that free S&H + 30$ discount is awesome..... and your right... there is not helping us.... so visa better get over it fast! |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Balsa Master- May I suggest you calm down on "ifixairplanes" a bit and recognize a little jesting when you read it. I don't believe anybody here wishes any harm to aircraft or bodies of anyone.
My thoughts. Have a good day. Bruce :) |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
so you are saying that all of my engines were and is an ABC type of engines? Hmm........my old .40 OS and they don't make it anymore. I don't have that engine with me right now but later, i can get you some infromation. and is Ringed is also a ABC type? |
RE: DISASTER!!!!
Balsa Master: I was thinking ahead that day. I am lucky in that I have many "out of the way" fields over 20 miles away from the NEAREST club. club #2 is 40 miles or farther. its to much trouble to drive that far away for a club. maybe once to get acquainted or to get people to look over the plane an show maybe some things not stated in the manual that I should do. like what is entailed in a ple-flight check on rc aircraft. stuff like that.
|
RE: DISASTER!!!!
yeah i get your point, thanks.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:30 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.