Carden Builders, Help !!!
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Carden Builders, Help !!!
I am working on my Carden 35% Extra 330. Its mcoming along well, I have a couple questions for the Carden Builders here. I am getting ready to glue in the Mounting plywood pieces to the fiberglass cowl, I have them alligned and tacked in with CA, What is the best way to glue them in Epoxy& glass, or Goop? I have seen it done both ways, which method do you guys use. Also Should I extend the length of the ailerons (longer than stock) I have not sheeted the wings yet. Last question what length servo arms should I use on the ailerons, and elevators, I have JR 8411 servos 2 per aileron, 1 each for the elevators. Thanks for the Help, Jack.
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
Jack,
30 or 45 min epoxy is the best route for gluing up the cowl mounts. I would accurately mark where you have them located (making sure the cowl fits the fuse well) and then break the CA glue joints. Get epoxy on the mating surfaces and let it cure. Check the fit again to verify that the fit is still good. Once you are happy with the fit, the mix more epoxy and some micro balloons and make a small fillet around the cowl mounting pieces.
As far as the ailerons are concerned, it depends on what type of flying you plan on doing. The stock ailerons work well for pretty much everything, but if you get into flying 3D, you can gain some axial control in high alpha manuevers by extending them.
Servo arm length..... again this is dependant upon flying style. If you want 3D, then you will probably want 1 1/4 on ailerons and possibly 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 on elevators..... ****VERY IMPORTANT NOTE**** The ideal setup is to have the SHORTEST possible arm on the servo and the LONGEST possible arm on the control surface that will allow you to get the amount of throw you want. This maintains a mechanical advantage for the servo.
30 or 45 min epoxy is the best route for gluing up the cowl mounts. I would accurately mark where you have them located (making sure the cowl fits the fuse well) and then break the CA glue joints. Get epoxy on the mating surfaces and let it cure. Check the fit again to verify that the fit is still good. Once you are happy with the fit, the mix more epoxy and some micro balloons and make a small fillet around the cowl mounting pieces.
As far as the ailerons are concerned, it depends on what type of flying you plan on doing. The stock ailerons work well for pretty much everything, but if you get into flying 3D, you can gain some axial control in high alpha manuevers by extending them.
Servo arm length..... again this is dependant upon flying style. If you want 3D, then you will probably want 1 1/4 on ailerons and possibly 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 on elevators..... ****VERY IMPORTANT NOTE**** The ideal setup is to have the SHORTEST possible arm on the servo and the LONGEST possible arm on the control surface that will allow you to get the amount of throw you want. This maintains a mechanical advantage for the servo.
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
As far as gluing things to fiberglass, i would highly recommend that you use Hysol 9462. It will bond far better and is considerably stronger. The nice thing also is that it stays where you put it. You don't have to mix other materials with it to keep it from running. Thus, using less material which equals less weight. Good luck.
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
I agree with Fx use hysol or better known as BVM aeropoxy. Same stuff it stays where you put it, and the fiberglass to ply bond works great with this stuff. Its a loctite product. You can get it from some of your local home depot's or at BVM or dreamworksrc.com. The whole set-up will cost you about 80 bucks the first time because you need to by the gun. refills from there are about $8.00 a tube. the stuff works great... right now its curing on my 40% extra 330's wing tube socket.
As far as the ailerons, my recommendation is to build them stock. the roll rate is blistering already.
Servo arms.... 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch on the arm and as much as you can get at the aileron. I usually build the servo so I can get a 4 inch titanium pushrod between the 2 clevis's. I hope this helps.
Pete
As far as the ailerons, my recommendation is to build them stock. the roll rate is blistering already.
Servo arms.... 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch on the arm and as much as you can get at the aileron. I usually build the servo so I can get a 4 inch titanium pushrod between the 2 clevis's. I hope this helps.
Pete
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
Thanks alot guys, I am going to try the Hysol, I already have the Application gun at work, I just need to get the Hysol and tips, My local Home Depot doesn't carry it, looks like I'll have to mail order it. Thanks again for all the help, Jack.
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
I personally use West Systems 105 resin with 206 hardener for everything. I'll mix milled fiberglass and or micro balloons for better filling if needed. On my Carden 35% aircraft I use SWB 1" arms on the ailerons, 1.250" arms on the elevators, and a 4" bellcrank for the rudder. I build the entire plane to spec and never had any problems with any maneuver.
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
Best price That I have found >
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...products_id=52
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...products_id=52
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RE: Carden Builders, Help !!!
Jack,
You can buy Hysol from McMaster Carr Industrial Supply. It is usually cheaper than buying it from other sources (Hobby Suppliers). As with any adhesive, make sure you rough it up to give a good "tooth" and wipe down with alcohol. I generally don't use the nozzles on the gun. I dispense it out on a notepad, mix by hand and then add it where i need it.
Good Luck,
Matt Short
[link=http://www.mcmaster.com]McMaster Carr[/link]
You can buy Hysol from McMaster Carr Industrial Supply. It is usually cheaper than buying it from other sources (Hobby Suppliers). As with any adhesive, make sure you rough it up to give a good "tooth" and wipe down with alcohol. I generally don't use the nozzles on the gun. I dispense it out on a notepad, mix by hand and then add it where i need it.
Good Luck,
Matt Short
[link=http://www.mcmaster.com]McMaster Carr[/link]