FUS

I just order a MG16... I have read a lot on what to espect from this mini nitro and I see there is only one post on 2010 related to the MG16 and is something related to a bad experience with CEN customer care

I was just wondering if something has change on the design of the MG16 on the last year, what about the muffler leaking and performance (did some one mod the truck to use a tunned pipe)?

Are some new posible upgrades for the MG16?

Thanks

etivac13

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6865783/tm.htm

FUS

Thanks for the link... I think I have outline the basic upgrades to the MG16

1.- Bearings: [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD121&P=M]DuraTrax Bearing 5x11mm[/link]
2.- I like to change the tires for this ones [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXA3&P=M]HPI Yokohama Geolandar M/T Tire S[/link] and this rims look really cool [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWSN2&P=M]RPM Revolver 2.2"[/link] [8D]
3.- Add a fuel filter, change the air filter... maybe Front and rear aluminium shock towers from [link=http://www.cenracingdirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3140]CEN Racing Direct[/link]. Aluminium shocks and other small parts can be replaced one at the time later.

And the exhaust sistem will come at the end of the list... as far as I see its more a situation of experiment and redesign on the MG than a upgrade already created for the unit so I will worrie about that later.

etivac13

i used hpi dirt bonz tires and truck wheels, and hpi air filter on mine...but sold it a few days ago..been on the shelf too long[]

FUS

I get my MG16 today... I was going to work the engine but my kids was playing on the house and the day just wasn't long enough!!

I like the little truck, and I like the paperwork that come with, good pictures and instructions on how to asamble the truck components and the parts, what is really good for me that Im not really familiar with the mecanics and inerworking of the RC cars and trucks... Still is going to be hard to take something apart and put it togeter right because of me being a noob [].

I can easy take the wheels of and put the new ones, adjust the carb on the engine, I dont see hard to take the muffler off and try to put a pipe... but something like to take apart the steering hub to replace the metal bushings for bearings and then do the same with the rear hub its a diferent show...

But well that is what I was looking for when I choose the MG16

FUS

man what a pain is to start this truck... my hand is sore and I bust my knucles on the freaking body post [:@]

The pull start is hard, and the size make it harder to get a good grip on the truck, I think one of the first things I will get as upgrade is the rotostart! After 45 minutes I make it run for a couple of seconds and that was all [&o]... big dissapointment for every one who was there looking at me on the floor fighting with the pullstart.

syzsounds

Hi guys .. Newbie here,
Just bought an MG16 for my lad and i cannot for the life of me get it to start and keep running.
My knuckles are bloodied and bruised [:@]

Any tips on starting this thing and keeping it running whilst i get it broken in ?
I eventually had to get a hair-dryer on it to warm it up and get it to start but it seems to be a fuel problem, There bubbles in the line.

When it does start it will run for about 10 seconds and die, it is very hard to get it to start again.
Im running 10% nitro ( shop recommended for break in) is this wrong ?

My lad is really upset that this didn't work on Christmas day so i would like to get it run in and fully working for when he comes back on wednesday.

FUS

My was a pain in the rear too... I catch my knuckles every time on the body post and I get a couple of blisters because of the handle, plus the process to loose the engine take like 2 full weeks on small ajustments here and there []

What I can tell you is just hold there and take your time... at the end every one is going to be happy, I will list what happend on my in order so maybe you can follow the same line and get it working 100%

1.- Check the glowplug, fully inserted and working fine
2.- Screws that hold gas tank, my was really loose and the gas tank was jumping like crazy (not sure if that was a problem or not!)
3.- Idle screw too close from factory, I open always a little more than the 1mm recomended my Mg16 Idle fine now
4.- The tube that comes from the muffler was coming off every time that I try to start the truck, so I re-route the line to the other side of the cylinder head now It's holding fine
5.- My engine was hydrolocking bad every time up to the point that I have to remove the cylinder head to see what a hell was hapenning, when I was doing this I found the backplate on the starter was loose way too much so I get it back on place, after that the engine stop locking, not sure if that was why it was doing it that often but loose parts are not good!

I experience like you bubbles on the gas lines, I think have to do with the quality of the gas lines, they come really easy on my mg16 so I'm 100% sure they are part of the problem but I have being to bussy at work to stop at the LHS and get some new tubes... The truck start easy now after 5 thanks but still I have air in the gas line and when the gas thank is almost running out there is too much air on the line and the engine just die and waste like a little less of 1/4 of tank [:@]

I'm going to work on this problem on 3 stages: changing the tubes, then If it don't get better I will work on fit a tunned pipe for .15 and if its not working will look for a different was tank.

syzsounds

Well to let you know i did get it running today .. Hurrah ... took absolutely ages and i eventually used a cordless drill on the one way nut.
Having ran it for 2 tanks i gave it a quick bash around the garden on maybe 1/4 throttle and it ripped a wheel clean off about 5 minutes ago ... i didnt even get it in the air ... its flat ground !

What crap ... it didnt even hold up on the break in .. whats it going to be like when its fully run in and flying ... I hope the shops open tomorrow ..its going back to see what they say.

FUS

ouch... [X(]

My its holding fine, how bad was the damage on yours?

Did the rim fail at the point where it fit on the metal wheel stopper?

syzsounds

Exactly that ... theres a piece of plastic still with the nut on and the rim has a hole in it where it should be attached.
Nothing else was touched ...except the car flipped after the wheel centre ripped out.

No other damage to the car.

FUS

mmm... it is good that nothing else get damage!

I have the other day a small crash against a tree, I try to avoid it but still hit the front wheel and I was almost sure that something was going to get brocken or loose... but nop, just have to walk and put it back on the right direction!

the rims are kind of crapy, the good its the fact a 1/10 12mm rim should be fine and I'm sure your LHS have a nice set.