Digout, did you have to mod anything to get the TRX2.5 to work? What gauge aluminum did you use on the top plate? Does side mounting the steering servo improve responses?

I changed out the CEN battery/receiver (B/R) box and installed an OFNA Pirate 10 one. This give better clearances for linkage set-up when using the slide carb TRX 2.5. The earlier post picture showed the TRX 2.5 installed using the CEN B/R box and bent carb linkage. I used a 1/8" thick Al plate that was 2-1/4" wide. Some people just simply cut the stock top plate. Side mounting the steering servo lowers the overall CG of the truck and eliminates the exrta weight of the large top plate.

digout:

i presume ur reciever is in the new box - are ur batteries rear mounted out of interest?

poor judgement:

The Hi Tec FM receiver (w/built-in failsafe) and NiMH batteries all fit in the OFNA B/R box. I plan on next to set up the chassis with an OFNA P-10 fuel tank (90cc), rear battery box and front mounted receiver w/box. Just like to tinker around with it a bit to get the most universal set-up.

digout

it all fits in there? cool, do u have any more pics of the box, side view, inside view etc? oh and a part number if u have one would be great.

thanks

poor judgement:

The Ofna part number for the battery/receiver shown box is 17049. Attached are pictures as requested.

Digout, What shocks are on it?

cheers for that digout... ill see how i get on with the ultra lx reciever box, its still in the post...

sschuler:

The shocks are the Duratrax Nitro Evader St (front-$15.50/pair). Tower part number is dtxc9003. They are a close match for the CEN MT2 aluminum shocks. I also find the Ofna Pirate 10 F/R and Monster Pirate front will also work.

digout, how well do they work? DO they blow the stockers away?

sschuler:


The F/R pirate 10 shocks are little better quality than the Cen aluminum racing ones and work a little better. The front monster pirate (not Dominator) shocks allows the MT2 to take more abuse since they were designed for a 1/8 scale buggy. The problem with the stockers is that they tend to leak early on.

dkf1979, did you find the engine extremely difficult to turn over when you made the conversion? It took me quite a while to get it so that it didn't stick when I was attempting to pull start it. I finally have the engine running (banged up knuckles and blood blisters later).

No, I didn't notice it being more difficult to start.

I will be also converting my NT.16 to .18 size engine. My local hobby shop says that for starting any new/rebuilt tight engine for the first time use a hair dryer to warm it up (~190F), loosen glow plug 1/4 turn and always mark the flywheel to indicate piston in the down positon. The piston should be in the down position after every run to protect the piston/pinch of the cylinder. I will try their advice and see how it goes for my conversion.

Maybe I should try that out. I tell ya, I got my hands beat up from trying to start it. I kept having to clear floods.

I hate to bring such an old thread back from the dead, but I recently did this conversion on my CEN funfactor rally, since it needed a new piston and sleeve anyway. I had some problems fitting the new connecting rod in there though. Basically the engine wouldnt turn all the way because the rod was hitting part of the block. Anyone else have this type of problem? I got around it by using the rod from the .16 engine, but I dont know how well that will last...

If the rod is hitting the block you could grind a little bit of it away with a Dremel to gain clearance. I had no problems with the .18 rod in my engine.
I also wouldn't trust the stock .16 rod with the .18 piston for very long ( there is a reason CEN uses a beefier rod on the .18)

rolland

I just did this conversion on my son's ATX. Wow, these new parts have some serious compression. I am only 2 tanks into the breakin, but what an easy conversion. I had no idea these motors were so easy to work on. My only concern was whether or not I got the mesh correct between the spur gear and clutch bell. Anyone have a simple guide I can follow? It looks correct, but I am not sure I would really know.

I always get my mesh by 'feel' rather than anything else. There is the paper method, where you run a piece of standard paper between the spur and the clutch bell. When you have the correct setting, the paper will be folded but not ripped by the gear teeth.
By the way, did you get the con rod for the NX3.0 or stick with the NT16 one? Also, where did you get the parts from? I don't think they are available over here!

I did get the new connection rod. I ordered from Ehobbies. It took them a while to ship it. I suspect it was not in stock as they normally ship within a couple days. I think I have the mesh pretty close to the way it was. I will watch the spur gear for extra wear. Everything turns freely and it doesn't feel like there is any binding or slack in the mesh. I might try the paper method just as one more precaution. Thanks.

Thanks for the info on using a piece of paper to check my gear mesh. The paper came out crimped good but not tore. Now to get time to tune it and see how much more performace I get than stock.

Lets see pics with the lid off the new .18 MT2

Here you go. Actually, I did the ATX first. My son got dust in the carburetor a few weeks ago and it's been hard to start every since. And once it was hot, forget about it. There was no visible damage to the cylinder I could see, but what the heck do I know. The new parts have so much more compression, that I do know. I also sealed the back plate and carburetor while I was in there, so I am sure that helped.

I am planning on upgrading my MT2 with the .18 parts soon. Maybe this winter or next spring before I start it up. Right now, it runs like a bat out of ****. Starts 2nd or 3rd pull even warm and idles smoothly for a full tank.

If you look at the last two pictures, this is what happens when a MT2 hits an ATX at full speed... We were horsing around on a parking lot and we got too close. My MT2 jumped the ATX nearly ripping the front tire off and slid about 6 feet on it's top, rolled onto it's wheels and came to a stop. Damage was instantly visible on the MT2. My son freaked out, but his ATX was not hurt at all except for the crease in his shell. Oh well, it happens and we had fun anyway.

*EDIT* Sorry, I did not realize the 3rd picture was so blurry, but you get the idea.

They are called battle scars, you should wear them with pride because it shows your truck is not a shelf queen! Everything looks real nice mate. Congratulations on the conversion, my spare NT16 will be .18 shortly I hope.

Hey I know www.customRCcars.com sells CEN replacement parts and upgrades maybe you can find it their. Hope this helps.