Hi-can anyone suggest a larger fuel tank that bolts in with minimal modification?

Also, I have a Hitec receiver with an NiMh "hump pack". There is a ton of wasted space inside the stock receiver box, which I've filled up with foam until I find a smaller receiver box that bolts in. Anybody using something smaller?

Hi there, sorry cant suggest anything. But am wondering how the car goes with the OS engine in it. I have one on the way. Is the drivetrain, axles etc holding up ok?

Cheers,
Azzman

KBlake, if you go to the 'pics' thread, there are a couple of forum members using ofna fuel tanks of 90 and 125cc. I think the receiver box from ofna is compatible aswell as an RPM box. If you have a look in the thread I am sure all your questions will be answered.

If you turf the standard chassis and get a JT (email me if ya need one ;-) then you can bolt a whole range of fuel tanks to the chassis.
I have one from a kyosho.. not sure what it is, must be a truck of some sort as it's well over 140cc. 30min runs with a .27 are what I get out of it.

Yes I know I used to have a .28 in there, though it met an ill fated end after hitting the armco on a highway at full canter. God bless it's 5 port sole.

Rgds
Anthony

I've just gotten through the 6 tank break in period, haven't tuned it for peak power/speed yet, but it already accelerates faster and has more top speed than with the stock motor. I swapped in taller gears at the same time, to take advantage of the increased torque and horsepower. So far I haven't broken any diff cups, but the only time I normally break those is if I run into something.

hey , just wondering does that engine fit in with no mods and is it side exhaust,standard engine mounts work wiyh it , thanks

That particular engine drops right into the CEN with no alterations needed. I have the .15cvr here and I can vouch for the quality of the OS engines. Poorjudgement is running the .18cvrx and has been for some time I think. He seems to like it aswell.

like it? its a blinder! lol

it goes straight in, use the cen clutch and flywheel, cen standard mounts, u may need to shim the pinions a bit - i did, cen manifold fits, but makes carb adjustment a bit tricky, rotate the carb so it just fits the manifold. i have the slide carb so that didnt cause a prob with the linkage being at an angle, the rotary may need some sort of slightly different linkage when rotated to fit...

it blows diff cups quite merrily, but the diff cup mod is the thing to search for to cure that. using mine on grass with spiked tyres results in twisted and snapped drveshafts, well, on any high grip surface with my style of driving... do the diff cup mod while its on the shelf mate, and see how that goes. get ur gear mesh spot on too - check the mesh at 90 degree intervals on the spur as they are not perfectly circular, and find the best comprimise.

have fun!

Thanks Scouser, I'll take a look.

Poor Judgement: Thanks again for your assistance in determining which CVRX to get. It dropped right in, and I rotated the carb slightly to clear the Cen header. My header looked like it had been bent slightly, by one or another crashes, so I chucked it up in the bench vise, and used a large standard screwdriver to bend it slightly, which helped with carb clearance. I also polished the header and tuned pipe a bit while I had them off. Here are a couple of pictures:





I flipped my throttle servo around, and put the throttle linkage on the underside of the servo arm. This fit better than the original orientation. That has a lot to do with the high torque servo I am running from HiTec though. I believe the standard servo and linkage would work with no alterations.

lookin good, u run it in yet?

just an extra tip - i used a longer screw in the rear shock mount on the shock tower, and removed the airfilter cap screw and screwed it onto the shock mount screws extra thread. it stops the filter from flying off - i can pick my truck up by the filter now. i have the jt towers, but it might work with the cen ones too.

have fun - it took a good gallon to get mine fully run-in. it just kept producing more and more power...

thats a long piece of tube u have between the header and silencer, changing the length of that will affect the performance of the motor, as u probably know... i chose to run mine as short as possible to get as much hp as i could - the os has plenty of torque, as u will discover, so i didnt notice any loss there, but it seemed to rev a bit higher. i was only using 10% nitro tho, still havent cracked open this gallon of 25%...

Thanks for the tips-Great idea on bolting the intake to the rear stay. I just finished the 6th tank of fuel the other day, and it's been raining here ever since, so I haven't tuned it for top speed yet. I'll try shortening that tube-I've been meaning to get a colored one anyway, for a bit more bling ;-)

how u getting on with the 18? uve been quiet, so im guessing all is good...?

kblake ,poorjudgement
the standard 2-speed cutchbell fits on with no probs, how much should i expect to pay for one of those babies.

bout a tenner for the threaded 11/14t - it fits fine.

Pretty good, thanks for checking up on me. My main hobby has been keeping me pretty busy, as drag racing season has started here in Oregon. My MR2 went 12.8@111MPH the Friday before last

The goal is to get an 11 second pass out of her this season.

Back on topic, the directions for the OS18 are a little vague when it comes to operating temperature. Anyone know what a safe operating temp is for this engine? It's still giving plenty of smoke from the exhaust, but I've seen temperatures well over 300F !!!

Ken

mr2 eh? i love it when they come into wet roundabouts here, my little crx gets its own back then! perhaps urs would still eat me tho...

hmm seems a bit hot, they normally run pretty cool. u do have a good airflow thru ur shell dont u? a hole front and back?

how are ur needles set? i can have a look at mine, see how they compare if u like, as a rough guide.