Hi All,

In the shock tower thread, there was talk about making a chassis brace. The one Azzman had, had some problems. If there is interest, perhaps we can design a new, stronger brace.

The end of the other thread can be seen here. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3059728/anchors_3547445/mpage_9/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3547445]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3059728/anchors_3547445/mpage_9/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3547445[/link]

As of now… I don’t know what it looks like, or how it mounts… but I started this thread so the other one wouldn’t get hijacked.

Post if you want them, have any ideas, or just have a comment.

it was just a thought i had re the brace, while i was putting my truck back together. its a bit tricky to get a good design for it as the throttle servo linkage can get in the way if ur not careful. a few people have done it different ways, but nearly all involve an accurate bending of a piece of alloy - would the bending cause a problem DrH?

ive been bouncing ideas about and bolting some scrap bits in mine to see what works - heres a pic of it at the mo, not quite what i want, but u get the idea - it needs a brace between the brake seat and the throttle servo mounts. a single piece, complete top plate that runs right to the front diff would be ideal, but is asking a bit much i reckon (unless we do a full chassis redesign...) [X(]

tbh mine isnt the best to work from due to the lack of stock parts - cmon guys, give us ur brace pics please!

On the JT chassis I don't really see the need for a chassis brace. There is some flex in the chassis but not enough to be concerened about.

On the stock chassis there is allot of flex that should be addressed. I believe that the main reason for the flex on the stock chassis is because it is a 2 piece chassis. It would be hard to eliminate it without a complete top deck or some form of roll cage.

The JT chassis is longer than the stock chassis so 2 different parts would have to be made depending on which chassis is used.

Poor Judgment, if you are not using the stock batt/reciever box try bolting a piece of aluminum in its place to limit the flex. The chassis flexes a considerable amount more if there isn't any thing bolted there.



rolland

im getting a fair bit of movement when i hit the brake, pushing the seat backwards. if i can stop it moving then that force can be used to apply the brake instead of bending the chassis, save my batts etc. these wheels take some stopping from speed.

i have a new seat to fit, ill see if it makes any difference, the old one had dodgy threads on one side... oh and new diff cases too, it all counts i guess.
i hear u on the other points tho, rolland, im just bouncing ideas about.

longer suspension arms anyone?

As far as the brake servo flexing the chassis I suppose that the little bit of flex involved is better than a burnt out servo. You could also bolt a piece of aluminum to the chassis where the batt box goes to replace some of the support lost when you removed the batt box. You could also incorporate some form of fuel tank mounting setup to mount the extra tank to in the piece you bolt to the chassis. I am assuming that you are still using 2 tanks.

I have been toying with the idea of longer arms so full length T-Maxx cvd's could be used as well as regular Maxx wheels. But the problems of a diff cup solution is still there. A person could do my mod with the diff cups providing the T-Maxx cvd's will fit in the buggy diff cups.



rolland

good point re the servo, ill have to admit to having stripped the gears before on the brake servo...

aye, still using 2 tanks, so a tank mounting plate will probably sort it, good plan man!

Just a thought here but it looks as though fitting bigger Maxx sized wheels is pretty high on everyones to do list. This is going to put a considerable amount of extra stress on the a-arms. I know there have been a few attempts made already at producing an a-arm brace, maybe see what Dr Honda can come up with? Arm braces, buggy shocks, ARO shock towers and Savage wheels should be a pretty cool set up I reckon!

Heres my servo/chassis brace It's alot better than my last attempt THICKER metal this time. I had a old duratrax mt chassis. This brace takes out all chassis flex and protects the servo! If the hole in the middle was cut larger, would be good for servo reverseing.

Scouser is right! out of all the things i (and my thumper) really want bigger wheels

Its funny... the FF has been out for a good few years now, and theres hardly been much in the aftermarket category.... but it looks like its getting there... slowly

Modder - thats the kind of support I was meaning - from the brake seat to the radio tray mount is ideal i reckon.

My chassis is a lot stiffer now tho with new diff cases, alloy seat etc but I still have a little bracing between the throttle servo and it still flexes a little between the brake seat and rear diff when I brake. Soooo, Ive been looking around at some other manufacturers parts for ideas, as theres not a lot of requests for the bracing... sniff...

Poor judgement ... I still have my chassis brace set up the same way from when I originally did it and it works very well... No flex at all.... I only have tow steering links cut down with du-bro ball ends at each end... simple and cheap to make and works great... The last time I stripped a spur gear was when the engine got loose, not the chassis...
Modder... Is there any reason your steering servo is upside down? Looks like a severe angle for the linkage to work... Just a thought..

Cenracer - thanks for that. I have drilled and tapped a couple of holes in the front side of the brake seat for a similar kind of thing. My servo is too low to do it ur way, unfortunately.

I have been thinking about trying to make a low profile brace the would go from the back shock tower to the screw holes in front of the throttle servo. That would tie the rear shock tower and the top plate together. I have the New Era rollbar on my MT2 so it is good, but I really need something for the ATX. When i hit the brakes you can see the rear shock tower move, that can't be good.

Cenracer - u got a pic of ur brace?

I have it on disc at my house... I'm still at work here.. hardly working tonight... I'll try and get a picture on the computer tonight if I can ... here is a crappy old one with the original engine... its not great, but its a start...

yea, i can see them both, just, lol - theres no way i can do it like that, the ball ends wont go to the angle that i need on mine. nevermind, i have an alternative brewing up...

cheers for the pic tho mate.

Sorry for using your pic cenracer... to lazy to take my own

I have been thinking of trying out my old ally welding again and making a tube ally brace... could be VERY light and strong and i might be able to make it into a role bar like the new era one but will also brace the shock towers

Heres what im thinking about...

craigb... thats fine but at least you could have cleaned up my mess
Poor judgement... I tried to find a pic of your current set up.. where is it hiding... I am trying to keep the truck as simple and as strong as possible without looking like it was heavily changed... I like a clean look... I bash hard and I have according to my son... no regard for the trucks safety or my wallet..... thankfully, the suspension mod works.. I'll still post a better photo if anyone else wants to see it... total cost about $5 and time spent.. 10 minutes...

LOL exactly why i never took my own picture... ment i need to clean up first [:@][:'(]

ok - heres whats on my desk at the mo, just about got it all back together - why do some parts have to hide from u...?

erm... ah, well, mine aint the best to get clean looking ideas from... but here u go - u can just make out the bracing points that im going to use on the seat and servo plate. (just to keep it on topic )

craig - im not keen on bracing between the towers, theres too much leverage on the towers that can bend them quite easily for my liking. with some more supports from the chassis it may be better tho - try it, see what happens man.

Cenracer 1 I have'nt had any problems with sterring linkage I did it to lower center of gravity without laying servo down cus I like the servo horn to have same travel as sterring horn, hope makes sense. As for braceing I'm finally done after finding one of my hideing parts (cutoff of top plate replaceing that black piece between brake seat and servo looks alot cleaner) Have'nt tryed this rear shock set up yet but it seems to have alot smoother travel then last attempt. How does a 17/20 pinions 41/38 spurs setup sound. I'll let you know how it turns out. I also agree with pj about braceing between towers. Find a way to tie top plates together. My chassis's are as stiff as a board now, I can't flex them at all and thats with pushing it into the corner of the table holding it hand at each end.

neat job on the brace.

not that it was me askin about ur steering... but the servo mounts to mount the steering servo laid down are very cheap on ebay - rc10 or b4 servo mounts are what to look for, iirc.

as for gear ratios - what engine are u using and with what wheels and tyres?

edit - ah, the os 18...[8D] st wheels and tyres will make it fly - might easy be a bit too tall for the mt setup tho - 14/17 might be better on those spurs for the mt wheels. it will still be a bit hard on ur clutch tho i reckon, but alloy shoes should sort that somewhat if its a prob.

either way, let us know how u get on

(16/20 on 42/38 spurs with st or rally wheels n tyres is very fast for sure tho...)

Poor Judgement,
the towers wont be taking any stress from the chassis
It will be just like the new era one but with bits the support the towers from bending

Ill have ago if my mate can still get alloy

Craig

here is a better pic of what I was talking about... Modder, I was asking about the servo, but I see why you did it... to lower c/g..
PJ.. I am a neat freak when it comes to my r/c stuff.. just like it clean ... can't say the same for the dishes

or your work bench J/K mines worse [:'(]

looks pretty neat that does... good work!