I have a question about installing the metal brake disk upgrade. I bought the aluminum brake seat, metal brake disk and metal brake plug to upgrade both my ATX and MT2. I installed it on the ATX and it seems to bind a little. The metal brake disk came with two pads. I installed a pad on both sides of the disk and the original metal pads on the outside of the pads. So if you look at it from the top, I have a metal pad, soft pad, brake disk, soft pad and the 2nd metal pad. I think I just have it too tight, but I have taken it apart a couple times and loosened the two screws that hold the brake pads onto the disk and now the screws are almost backed out to my spur gear. I can go a few more turns out, but the screw heads are getting close to my spur gear.

So, should I have installed both pads that came with the disk or should I have only used 1 of the pads. Also, should I have put the metal pads back in or should I have left them out. I am going to take it back apart and will get a picture up soon to better explain what I did.

Can anyone tell me what I did wrong or what I did not do right? If you need more info, I will try and explain it better.

I don't have the metal brake disc but a brake pad has to have a metal backing, if the new brake pads don't come with one already stuck to them, you would need to put the original metal brake pads back on.
Have you looked at the linkage for the possible cause? If the brake disc you are replacing was worn, I should think you would have had to adjust the linkage as the effectiveness diminished with age. Now you have a new pad and plug, the original tension is back and that is what is causing the brakes to rub. I have had alot of trouble setting mine up in the past so I know how frustrating it can be, stick with it though and let us know how you get on.

Thanks Scouser. I was thinking that I needed a metal backing for the pads in order for everything to work properly. The pads bind with the linkage completely off. When I have the rear diff off, and only the top bracket bolted to the brake seat and diff, everything turns freely. When I bolt it all to the chassis, it binds up on me even if the drive shaft is not connected.

I am going to just pull the rear diff back off after the kids settle down.

i think ive had this same thing...

is it binding on and off at certain points of the brake discs rotation by any chance?

I believe so. It is smoother when off, but I don't think it is perfect.

my disc wouls bind at 12 and 6 oclock positions on the disc as it refused to turn without wobbling and catching the pads. it did my head in for ages... eventually i cut down the tabs that locate it on the shaft to about half their original length and that seems to have sorted it.

i would post a pic, but its on the truck at the mo, and u cant see what i mean...

Poor Judgement. I had suspected those tabs had something to do with it. The stock part does not have those tabs. I had also thought about bending the tabs so they are more rounded. The way it is, the tabs are a square that rotates in a circle. Atleast I know what part to work on. Thanks.

what tabs are you refering about... I did the same upgrade but left the original brake seat... the plastic one.. the brakes work great.. I bonded the pads to the metal backing and used the metal vented rotor.. took a bit of sorting out at first but worked great...

I removed the original brake and just installed the metal vented disk. Should I have left the original brake disk with this new metal vented disk? I still have the part (don't throw anything away, it's a sickness).

The tabs are on the metal brake disk that came with the kit. Thanks.