I'm new to RC, so this is probably a bit of a newbie question.
I have a Genesis LE. Its new, and completely stock at the mo (except for 15Kg Steering Servo)
I'm trying to figure out what Diff oils and Shock oils I should put in it.
Its extremely hard to keep in a straight line under full noise, so I probably need to play with the toe and camber a little.
Any suggestions for a good "Rough terrain" setup?

What weight of diff and shock oil does it come with?
I popped a shock apart the other day, and have no-idea what oil to put back in it, or what was in it before.

I dont race my Genesis, but I intend to start running it hard over soft bumpy ground (sand), and start jumping it soon.
Any ideas on what oils I should put in the Diffs, and the shocks?
Im not ready to actually change the shocks to something else yet, I would just like them to be a little firmer, and to stop lifting the front wheel quite so much under low speed hard acceleration.

For the Diffs, thinking of 50K centre, 20K front and rear
No idea of what shock oil to use.

Any advice?

Thanks… Raptor - Australia

I am trying 10k-30k-10k but I think the rear should be a little lower, cen has a couple race setups on there site for the genesis. I know you don't want to race but the shocks oil and diff setups should be great for bashing and racing.

nice avatar michelob78, i saw those guys play in rotterdam in 94 - good times

Thanks, your is cool too a little troubling but funny.

After reading some of the race setups I decided to go with 10 F, Locked C, and 30 R. I should have it running by tonight so I'll see the results pretty quickly. My LHS has open nitro practive tonight so after I get everything set up I may take it down for a spin. I am suspecting that the truck will push thru the corners with this but we'll see.

PJ, I didn't even notice!! When did Kermit regain the right to keep and bear arms?

Thanks. I look forward to your results.
Starting to realise that maybe a lighter oil in the rear would be a good idea.
Tried to open my Centre diff today. Damn screws locked up so tight that I could not remove one on each side. They are now stuffed. Not sure how I'm going to get em out. still, spose I only really need to take 2 out (one on each side) and drain/fill it that way.
Would 50K effectively lock the center diff, or would I have to go to 100K to effectlively lock the centre diff? (keeping in mind that I cant open the damn thing to put the locker in there)

Thanks...

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think you'll need to drill the screws out. I had the exact same problem and that's what I ended up doing. And when I reassembled the differntials I made sure I used all brand new screws.

You'll need to completely disassemble the differential to get the factory grease out. I am purchasing a couple of the aluminum differential cases (GS001) and am considering them a consumable item.

What I did was drill the screws out, remove and clean the spider gears, and reassemble with the new case except for one side, filled with fluid, and completed assemble. I used blue locktight on all fasteners. Before you transfer all your parts to the new differential case take a jeweler's file and break all the edges. The machining inside the case is not the best finish job and I had several chips floating around inside. After that take a 3.0 mm by 0.5 pitch tap and run thru the threads just to clean them up. I went to my LHS and bought all the 3.0 by 10 mm screws I could find for the rebuilds.

The differential fluid itself is very thick stuff (even the 10K I used on my front). It's thicker than honey. You'd have a difficult time pouring it into a small orifice and forget about a funnel. Maybe there is a trick someone could tell us???? Would heating it soften it up a bit or would that destroy it's properties?

I did get my truck running last night only to find out that my clutch seems to be shot. I am going to do some troubleshooting this afternoon and see what the problem is.

Joe

Thanks for the advice.
I'll drill the offending screws out, and go get some taps and do as you suggest
I'll also get a few GS001's incase it happens again.
I think its a bit small to try and use an easyout.

I thought about trying to getting the remaining bits of screw out but with the aluminum case I thought for sure I would end up messing the case up anyway. I think those GS001s are only about $7. It just sucks waiting for them to come in the mail!!

If you lock the center diff it will wear alot on your drivetrain, believe me I had mine locked and broke Gs094 also you turning radius will get larger with a locked center diff.
So now I run 10k front 50k center and 10k back and it's good for bashing
Good luck with your trucks guys!!!

Does it pop wheelies with this set up.

Hows it run compaird to it being lock'd.

Im in the middle of doing this and dont want to take it apart again,well anytime soon anyway.