5 Spurs in 1/2 Gallon (MT2) - This is getting OLD FAST
#1
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I need some help from you guys!
I have gone through 3 1st gears and 2 2nd gears on my FF in only the last 1/2 gallon.
No matter how I mesh them...in a few tanks there are no teeth left.
Is there something I'm missing?
Nothing is binding...checked diffs, brake, dog bones etc.....everything is running smooth!
I make sure the engine is square to the gears...then I set the mesh properly and check by running a piece of paper through the gears to see if it rips.
I have tried meshing loose AND tight.
Meaning.....holding the clutch bell steady with one finger and rocking 1st gear back and fourth to check for play.
This is not happening while doing crazy stuff either....Last night I put in TWO new spurs then bashed for 2 hours.....gears were perfect when I was finished...I go to bash again today...BOTH gears lost a bunch of teeth just on my warm up run.
I have inspected the chassis. It does not seem to be bent...that I can see!
Everything is tight....
I'm out of ideas...
Someone help!
I have gone through 3 1st gears and 2 2nd gears on my FF in only the last 1/2 gallon.
No matter how I mesh them...in a few tanks there are no teeth left.
Is there something I'm missing?
Nothing is binding...checked diffs, brake, dog bones etc.....everything is running smooth!
I make sure the engine is square to the gears...then I set the mesh properly and check by running a piece of paper through the gears to see if it rips.
I have tried meshing loose AND tight.
Meaning.....holding the clutch bell steady with one finger and rocking 1st gear back and fourth to check for play.
This is not happening while doing crazy stuff either....Last night I put in TWO new spurs then bashed for 2 hours.....gears were perfect when I was finished...I go to bash again today...BOTH gears lost a bunch of teeth just on my warm up run.
I have inspected the chassis. It does not seem to be bent...that I can see!
Everything is tight....
I'm out of ideas...
Someone help!
#2
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I looked again...maybe the pinions need to be replaced.
I have two clutch/gear assy's.
Silver clutch with silver gears which came on the ATX (gears sheared from clutch and I have not brazed them back on)
so I have been running the MT2 clutch and gearing. Black clutch bell with anodized blue 2nd gear.
The blue has long since worn off and both gears have sharp teeth.
Could this be mulching all the spurs?
How long do the stock MT2 pinions usually last?
Generally speaking...how much play should there be between 1st Spur and 1st Pinion? or no play at all?
When I was running the stock ATX clucth and gearing my 1st set of spurr gears lasted forever...
BTW I'm still running the stock engine...I'm practicing tuning before I install the OS .18.
tnkx
LA
I have two clutch/gear assy's.
Silver clutch with silver gears which came on the ATX (gears sheared from clutch and I have not brazed them back on)
so I have been running the MT2 clutch and gearing. Black clutch bell with anodized blue 2nd gear.
The blue has long since worn off and both gears have sharp teeth.
Could this be mulching all the spurs?
How long do the stock MT2 pinions usually last?
Generally speaking...how much play should there be between 1st Spur and 1st Pinion? or no play at all?
When I was running the stock ATX clucth and gearing my 1st set of spurr gears lasted forever...
BTW I'm still running the stock engine...I'm practicing tuning before I install the OS .18.
tnkx
LA
#3
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AB, CANADA
With my NT-16 I went through like one spur per 1 and 1/2 gallon or less during summer. More when it was really cold (-15 C or colder) but thats my own fault. I think I've only wrecked one second gear though.
I always re allign my spurs before everytime I go out.
WHen you mesh your gears, check your mesh, then give the spur a quater turn and check it again. Check all 4 quadrants of the spur because some of them ar not perfectly round[
]
With the OS 18 I was going through quite a few spurs so I just sepnt the money and put in Genesis spurs. No probs since!
I always re allign my spurs before everytime I go out.
WHen you mesh your gears, check your mesh, then give the spur a quater turn and check it again. Check all 4 quadrants of the spur because some of them ar not perfectly round[
] With the OS 18 I was going through quite a few spurs so I just sepnt the money and put in Genesis spurs. No probs since!
#4
Have you tried the trick of using a piece of typing paper to mesh the gears? You put the piece of paper between the clutch bell and spur. Snug the motor down. Then pull the paper out and make sure it looks wrinkled like an acordian with no tears or rips. Then turn the spur over a couple times to make sure it's not binding. See if that helps. Not sure what else to tell you to look at. Maybe check the front bearing behind the flywheel and make sure it's not wore out causing the clutch bell to move around on you. There is also a bushing or bearing in the clutch bell that could be wore out. Also, see if the clutch bell looks discolored like it is overheating and causing the gears to melt.
#5
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same thing here... check the clutch bell for excessive play...if any doubt.. replace the bearings and or the clutch bell.. I abuse my mt2 more than most people and have very little problems with the gears unless they are out of wack and thats my fault...I run the stock gears as i don' have problems and don't see the need for metal ones...
#6
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I have done the paper trick many times
The clutch does have a small amount of play but it is axial.
Meaning the clutch will side back and fourth along the same axis as the crank shaft and spur gears but not side to side. I cant see this affecting the mesh to the point where teeth are busting off.
I have taken the clutch apart a bunch of times to make sure everything is tight and working properly.
I also check for out of round gears...There is no binding of any kind anywhere!
The only thing I can think of at this point are the worn pinions.
I know how to align the spurs...I have installed ones before that lasted seemingly forever.
Just this rash broke out and chewed up my mini inventory....
Anyone have any more ideas?
Common CEN....hurry up with the steel pinions and steel spurs for the Magnum...
I want I want I want...
The clutch does have a small amount of play but it is axial.
Meaning the clutch will side back and fourth along the same axis as the crank shaft and spur gears but not side to side. I cant see this affecting the mesh to the point where teeth are busting off.
I have taken the clutch apart a bunch of times to make sure everything is tight and working properly.
I also check for out of round gears...There is no binding of any kind anywhere!
The only thing I can think of at this point are the worn pinions.
I know how to align the spurs...I have installed ones before that lasted seemingly forever.
Just this rash broke out and chewed up my mini inventory....
Anyone have any more ideas?
Common CEN....hurry up with the steel pinions and steel spurs for the Magnum...
I want I want I want...
#7
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
did u check the bearings in ur brake seat and rear diff case? ive had issues like this before, all looked ok on the bench, but once the motor gave the bearings in the seat and diff some torque, they werent supporting the topshaft properly. like wise ive had the same with the clutch bearings too - just cos they seem ok in ur hand, doesnt mean they are ok when used.
always worth replacing the lil buggers every now and again, i do em every gallon or so on the whole truck - hub bearings being the quickest to wear out, followed by the diff bearings, then the clutch ones, then the brake seat and 2 speed ones, the steering post bearings seem to hold out a little longer tho. in my experience at least... was just a thought.
ebay usually has some cheap sets of tmaxx metal sealed bearings, theres a few u wont use tho - 6x10x4mm or something, but hey, u get to sell em on...
ps - anyone using alloy clutch shoes? if so id advise spending a little more on the clutch bearings as they get pretty warm with alloy shoes...
always worth replacing the lil buggers every now and again, i do em every gallon or so on the whole truck - hub bearings being the quickest to wear out, followed by the diff bearings, then the clutch ones, then the brake seat and 2 speed ones, the steering post bearings seem to hold out a little longer tho. in my experience at least... was just a thought.
ebay usually has some cheap sets of tmaxx metal sealed bearings, theres a few u wont use tho - 6x10x4mm or something, but hey, u get to sell em on...
ps - anyone using alloy clutch shoes? if so id advise spending a little more on the clutch bearings as they get pretty warm with alloy shoes...
#9
Bootmachine, I ran exactly the same pinion combo ( black and blue gears ) and found that after three tanks, they had worn the teeth into knife edges that were so sharp, I cut my finger pretty good on them. I switched them out for the steel 'welded on' pinions from the rally set up and I have run them for gallons with no problem what so ever. I think the ali that is used in the pinion options is very soft and just wears away very quickly.
#10
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I'm going to switch back to the ATX steel gears but I dont like how tall the gearing is.
Are there no steel pinions that will go on my black clutch bell?
How do I get the old gears off? Threaded or pressed?
Are there no steel pinions that will go on my black clutch bell?
How do I get the old gears off? Threaded or pressed?
#11
The option pinion sets are threaded, you can buy pinion gears as single items. The steel pinions are spot welded on and cannot be removed. I know what you mean about the tall gearing but I prefer the tougher gears and the peace of mind that they wont wear out after a few tanks.
#12
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ORIGINAL: Scouser
The option pinion sets are threaded, you can buy pinion gears as single items. The steel pinions are spot welded on and cannot be removed. I know what you mean about the tall gearing but I prefer the tougher gears and the peace of mind that they wont wear out after a few tanks.
The option pinion sets are threaded, you can buy pinion gears as single items. The steel pinions are spot welded on and cannot be removed. I know what you mean about the tall gearing but I prefer the tougher gears and the peace of mind that they wont wear out after a few tanks.
I'm going to braze weld them back on....
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
I'm going to braze weld them back on....
bootmachine are u using the stock motor? i know that the os18 will pull the atx pinions fine on stock spurs - made mine more manageable and gave me some more top speed, not much as i dont think it revs quite as high as the stock cen 16.
failing all that - see if u can find a supplier of ofna Hyper 10 2 speed clutch bell and steel pinions, they look very similar to the stock cen bells, as opposed to the Hyper 7s wider spaced pinions, if u know what i mean. Im finding it hard to get a supplier of these, so if u do find one, please let me know. They would be ideal to go with the magnums steel spurs.
thats a point - does anywhere have these magnum steel spurs in stock yet?
#14
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I'm still running stock engine.
O.S. is sitting on my speaker NIB...I dont want to drop it in until I can figure out the spur gear problem and master tuning...
If I braze the gears on....I can get them off after! Plus no lumps to grind down.
I will look for "ofna Hyper 10 " clutch bell and steel spurs.
O.S. is sitting on my speaker NIB...I dont want to drop it in until I can figure out the spur gear problem and master tuning...
If I braze the gears on....I can get them off after! Plus no lumps to grind down.
I will look for "ofna Hyper 10 " clutch bell and steel spurs.
#15
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Figured I would post the conclusion to this for those NB's who actually use the search function...
One of my motor mounts was loose. Part GX24...the two metal "L" shaped blocks that bolt to the bottom of the block.
One of the two screws that bolt to the block had backed out about 2 threads but was too tight to turn by finger...since the other screw was still tight, on the bench, the block seemed tight. I guess when under load everything flexed enough to chew through a small fortune in spur gears. I finally found this problem by accident when I took my engine apart for its regular cleaning.
Today I put about 25 tanks on the new spur gears...same old worn out stock MT2 aluminum pinions too. (NT16 Engine for Ref.)
I had to stop bashing today after one of the clutch bell bearings went for a poop. Spurs are still fine though...
One of my motor mounts was loose. Part GX24...the two metal "L" shaped blocks that bolt to the bottom of the block.
One of the two screws that bolt to the block had backed out about 2 threads but was too tight to turn by finger...since the other screw was still tight, on the bench, the block seemed tight. I guess when under load everything flexed enough to chew through a small fortune in spur gears. I finally found this problem by accident when I took my engine apart for its regular cleaning.
Today I put about 25 tanks on the new spur gears...same old worn out stock MT2 aluminum pinions too. (NT16 Engine for Ref.)
I had to stop bashing today after one of the clutch bell bearings went for a poop. Spurs are still fine though...




