Genesis piston/sleeve
#1
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From: County Dublin, IRELAND
I just broke 2 teeth on the main gear of my rotostart backplate today, obiously I still have very high compression as the roto start unit itself still can't rotate the engine and I use a battery drill even though I've put about 2 gallons through it. Anyway I disassembled the engine to make sure no other internal damage was done and had to force the sleeve out of the crank case by tapping it with a pliers,(using the plastic back of a screwdriver so not to damage the sleeve), and had to do this for the entire length of the sleeve. Now according to the ultimate nitro handbook, if your sleeve dosen't come out with the rotation of the piston it may be worn. Mine still has the pinch at TDC and you won't rotate it without a good drill. Is this normal for the big block engine, should the sleeve be seized in this manner? Also while I'm mooching for some advise, lately my Genny splutters al lot during idle in the same manner it does when it is just about to run out of fuel, could this be an air leak or am I overlooking something. I have a real problem with overheating at WOT and if I richen it to the point where the heat is contained I flood it. Any suggestions?
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From: Canvey IslandEssex, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Thos
.......I have a real problem with overheating at WOT and if I richen it to the point where the heat is contained I flood it. Any suggestions?
.......I have a real problem with overheating at WOT and if I richen it to the point where the heat is contained I flood it. Any suggestions?
I have the same problem. [
] When and IF I can get the bloody thing started in the first place!!!![:@][:@][:@][:@][
]
#5
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Thos
I just broke 2 teeth on the main gear of my rotostart backplate today, obiously I still have very high compression as the roto start unit itself still can't rotate the engine and I use a battery drill even though I've put about 2 gallons through it. Anyway I disassembled the engine to make sure no other internal damage was done and had to force the sleeve out of the crank case by tapping it with a pliers,(using the plastic back of a screwdriver so not to damage the sleeve), and had to do this for the entire length of the sleeve. Now according to the ultimate nitro handbook, if your sleeve dosen't come out with the rotation of the piston it may be worn. Mine still has the pinch at TDC and you won't rotate it without a good drill. Is this normal for the big block engine, should the sleeve be seized in this manner? Also while I'm mooching for some advise, lately my Genny splutters al lot during idle in the same manner it does when it is just about to run out of fuel, could this be an air leak or am I overlooking something. I have a real problem with overheating at WOT and if I richen it to the point where the heat is contained I flood it. Any suggestions?
I just broke 2 teeth on the main gear of my rotostart backplate today, obiously I still have very high compression as the roto start unit itself still can't rotate the engine and I use a battery drill even though I've put about 2 gallons through it. Anyway I disassembled the engine to make sure no other internal damage was done and had to force the sleeve out of the crank case by tapping it with a pliers,(using the plastic back of a screwdriver so not to damage the sleeve), and had to do this for the entire length of the sleeve. Now according to the ultimate nitro handbook, if your sleeve dosen't come out with the rotation of the piston it may be worn. Mine still has the pinch at TDC and you won't rotate it without a good drill. Is this normal for the big block engine, should the sleeve be seized in this manner? Also while I'm mooching for some advise, lately my Genny splutters al lot during idle in the same manner it does when it is just about to run out of fuel, could this be an air leak or am I overlooking something. I have a real problem with overheating at WOT and if I richen it to the point where the heat is contained I flood it. Any suggestions?




