Hey thermal, Just curious..What new toy did you get to play with??Bet you had all of your life and you just discovered it again, with all that painting and stuff you do...JK Brah..Seriously what new toy did ya get...Inquiring minds want to know....hhmmm

My savage XSS, and my E-savage are my most recent toys.

I been reading the forums looking for this fix for a while...You the Man Dogman! I can't wait to get this mod installed. Thanks.

There are two issues I noticed with the nemesis and genesis tank. The first is the half tank lean issue and the second one is that the tank sucks in air because the o-ring on the tank lid does'nt seal very well. I solved both issues buy switching to a smaller tank. I used a xtm x-factor tank. The runs times are not as long,but the trucks runs consistantly now

how many cc is that tank i used the nitro spyder tank 175 cc

I believe its 125cc. I used it because I had a couple of extras. I also put one on my tnx 3.0, the tanks on those are notorious for sucking in air

Hey CEN thanks for putting me in my place... I thought the truck was affected by the leaning issue but obviously I was wrong! Pretty piss poor response I think, considering the amount of peolpe that reckognise the issue. Maybe, just maybe you super experienced factory racers can't set up a truck as good as a 'lil old customer... by the sounds of it The Real Dogman should be doing your R&D work - you might just win some more races if you didn't run such a rich tune from full tank, but that doesn't matter anymore since you run smaller tanks , all of us inexperienced hacks might just have to copy you all knowing gods of RC and swap out the tank for a setup that will run for the duration of the tank. Thanks for reckognising the issue and thankyou for providing a prompt rectification to this problem.

where did the 3rd world post go... I am sure I know who made that one... he got fired from CEN and he was also kicked off the team... oh well some people can't be fixed- these cars and issues can though... that ofna component 10168 was a great find. The customer service department has beeen revamped and we encourage e-mails to our friendly helper... [email protected]

I found that a longer pressure line was helping my truck with this issue.. also check the seal on the lid
notch
Cen Team Driver
Cen Employee
3rd world driver

Thats great that CEN is trying to improve customer service.I like my Nemesis so much that I was going to buy a GST 7.7, but after reading that post I was pissed off and decided not to buy one. Now I will buy one, its nice to know there is some support out there.

Has anyone tested this mod yet?? Besides me that is... I know it works, for me...how 'bout anyone else?? Or is the winter keeping all y'all indoors?? The Sonoran Desert is great this time of year!!!!!

I tired it and it solved the problem for me. Although i only ran 2 tanks through due to it being about 3*F out...
Stupid canadian winters [:@]

that is not advised... if you want to do something to that effect... try a bigger diameter nipple

Notch, What is not advised???

ok one problem I have discovered with the check valve. The truck runs great thruought the whole tank!!! No leaning problem and it will idle for days. I can run the track thru several tanks of fuel with no issues, in fact the only time it stalled was when I was running it hard on the track andthe engine heated up. And this is where I noticed the problem. I found that if it does stall, the pressure in the tank will continue to force fuel into the carb, pulling the fuel lid stops it but by then it already has flooded the engine. I would say the valve is a success, but a new minor problem has arisen. Any of you other fellas that have done this mod run into this problem let me know.. I am working on a fix, or rethinking the check valve.

However, I am keeping the valve!! It helps so much!!!

I haven't tried this but one of my friends owns a nemesis and he removed the baffle out of the pipe to cure the half tank lean issue, I guess the baffle restricts the pressure.

I noticed that after a couple gallons, the reddish o-ring on the tank cap no longer seated correctly and the tank would actually leak fuel. Also, when I jumped, the truck would occasionally stall on landing, probably because the tank cap would pop open briefly. There were traces of the o-ring on the matching part of the tank and I think the o-ring was swelling and dissolving. While at the Toyota dealership, I was looking through their cheap tool bin and found a blister pack of all sizes of o-rings. Sure enough, one fit perfectly in place of the stock one and the cap closes tight and leak-proof every time now. I was worried the new one would dissolve or tear, but haven't seen any evidence of that a couple gallons later. I'm sure you could get the same blister pack at a tool store such as Harbor Freight or maybe even Lowes.

I'm not familiar with the internals of the valve you are using The Real Dogman but I understand whats happening, if you could have a check valve that when open will allow full flow (unrestrictive - this is hard to achieve as the check valve will have a press drop as a function of its operation in the flow direction) but when pressure tries to flow back the other way it is restricted rather than "checked".
Matching both ends of the fuel system may be an answer (although impractical) - if you had a hole in the centre of the check valve the same diameter as the carb needle then tank pressure would not drop off immediately after exhaust pressure disappears while off throttle but would "equalise" at a similar rate to which it feeds the carby, therefore not flooding the carby AS MUCH if engine stalls. I guess a REALLY long exhaust pressure line would do similar but in both directions, but you only want the restriction in an opposing direction to the check valve flow.
A parallel setup with two tees and two checkers with different ratings (spring tensions) may work, a soft spring in the direction of pressurising the tank, a stiff spring that bleeds excess pressure facing the other way. As a refrig engineer I could get a valve off the shelf that would be perfect but unfortunately it would weigh about four times that of the genny I'd be bolting it to (plus it may need 240volts!)
I've noticed its heaps worse in hot ambients, 35 degrees celcius plus and low RH and I get flame outs, high RH or below 35ish and she hangs in there

Ok guys, I retract my last post about the one time the engine stalled and the pressure in the tank forced fuel into the carb flooding it. I actually leaned the engine out a little further(restricting HSN) and have not had the flooding issue. I actually noticed a real snap in the throttle with this tune and the engine seemed to pull harder in the top end!!!! You might be surprised how much leaner this beast can be tuned with the extra pressure and how stable this thing seems to run!!!! I hope the weather is getting good enough for you other fellas come on out and play!!! I wanna hear how well your trucks are doing!!

Hey Dogman how ya do'in,

Did you ever check out the Perry Pumps website? I think their carb and pump might be the way to go! No more pressure issues plus you can get a larger bore carb as I think that the stock Cen carb is conservative in it's size.

I am going to give them a call soon as I get a chance to measure the stock carb bore and the body OD.

I'll let you know what they say.

I realize this is an old thread so what is your current stance?

Take care,
Don

The Ofna check valve has pretty much proven its worth. I did some research on the Perry pumps, etc. More money with unknown results and you need to drill into the engine case as near as i could tell. Figured with all that, it was not worth the effort to find out.

Hey Donnie,

Thanx for reviving this old thread(now I dont have to go find it!!), it just so happens another RCU member(bubbap51) has sent me a checkvalve from the RC airplane world that seems to be very promising. I just have to check its fluid flow rate against the well proven OFNA valve. If it proves comparable then I will install it in my nemesis and let the real testing fun begin!! I will let evryone know in the next coupe days how it works out...


Nomobux your a wack-job!!

Are you placing check valve on muffler line and which direction for flow. I would assume that you are using to block fuel from going back in the tank so flow direct would be twords muffler inlet. could you please clarify. would greatly apreciate it.

Flow direction is to the tank to allow exhaust gas into the tank to pressurize the tank and when you let off the throttle, the valve closes to hold the pressure in the tank so there is more consistant pressure in the tank..

Clear?

Dogman,

Ordered a Perry carb and pump yesterday, as soon as I get it and run it I will let you know how it works. He has them in many sizes so I did order one slightly larger than stock by about .5mm. With his setup pressure remains constant thru the whole tank of fuel. The only thing that might be hard for the average guy might be installing the pressure line in the block but I have no problem doing that.

Have you run any other pipes than stock? I removed the baffle from the stock pipe and that helped but its still too quiet to suit me, still quieter than my sons Savage with it's stock pipe or the RD Logics pipe I run on it now. Some one reccomended Ofnas 086 pipe but I haven't read if it will work on as large a motor as ours. Ideas?

I just love modifying stuff.

Don

Good luck donnie, its your $$$ seems like alot of $ to solve a problem that is solved with a cheap and simple part. Not trying to be mean just been down that road. Again its your $$ Cant see drilling a perfectly good block..

Please let us know how it works and installs