Hey everyone,

So whats the easiest way to remove the diffs from the Nemesis? I wanna fill them with silicone and just wanna know if anyone has a tips about getting to them the best possible way.

Thanks.

The Nemesis diffs are really easy to get to. My entire front end is out right now because I cracked the upper bulkhead brace. Here, is how I did it
1. Remove the six scews at the bottom plate( remember what srews go where,the longer ones go up front)
2. Remove the two screws on the side that bolt into the upper bulkhead brace ( now the entire front end should come off)
3. Remove the 4 bolts the hold the bumber on
4. Remove the hinge pins
5. Remove the srews that hold the bulkhead and diff together. (use the manual as a reference, its really easy to forget what screws go where)

Thanks soilwork. Sounds pretty easy.

thats the easy part the hard part is trying to remove the diff screws. i would recommend getting a mini butane torch from radio shack or something simillar. the screws i removed required alot of heat and they used green loctite. green is used when you have the screws almost set and put a dab on the threada and it follows all the way down the threads. alot of heat, and get new red o rings you will need them, alot of heat, alot.
did i mention alot of fire.

Good Call Jombo, I would only add "ALOT a flame!!"

No really, be very patient, and heat it carefully, but Heat it!! Also before you try to turn the screws be very sure your driver is well seated, then turn the screws..

I put mine in the oven for 5 mins at 250 C. Very easy to remove and didn't need to replace the red o rings either, I would think 3-4 mins would do also. 8 mins gets screws off very very easily but kills the o rings...

Everyone has a different approach to removing the screws on the diffs for the Nemesis/Genesis. And the points listed above are good ways to do it. Also what really helps is a REALLY GOOD hardened allen driver!! I find that the L wrenchs are a little too soft to torque the screws off the diff case. But before you go and try to pry away at the diff screws, HEAT UP THE DIFF, this is to break the red locktite is used on the trucks from the factory. And Jombo, I think it's usually the red loctite that is used for almost permanent cases. The green I thought was the light duty stuff (same strength as blue but meant for really fine threaded fasteners), blue is the med stuff, and with red being the strongest. I am not sure, so you might want to double check on that. For RC cars, I generally just use blue loctite, I also used a dab of blue loctite to put my diffs back together as well.

Personally, I just threw my diffs in the oven as well. Put them at 350F for about 10-15 minutes and I was able to break the screws free without stripping the heads. The reason I like to use the oven method is it is just a lot easier for me. I don't have a butane torch at home, so I haven't tried that way. Though I am pretty sure the torch idea would be much quicker. I was also worried about the o-rings getting melted, but the o-rings were fine, but after you heat them, check and see if the o-rings are still good and replace as needed. My diff setup is as follows 10,000 wt in front, 30,000 wt in center, 5,000wt in rear. I am also running smaller tires than most people as well though (truggy tires), so you might want to go a little thicker if you like.

Lastly, please double check the manual on which direction to put the diff cases in!!! I once rushed putting my truck back together and I forgot to check the directions of the arrows on the case. If you are looking at the truck (truck is facing you), the arrow should point to the left for the front diff.

And as you are looking at the rear of the truck, the arrow should also point to the left. If you don't check that the diff cases are put in the correct direction, you will end up with a truck that has front wheels going one way and the rear wheels going the opposite. I have done this and boy did it make me feel dumb.... So spend a few extra minutes and save yourself the headache of having to take apart your the front end again, check the manual. Good Luck, and let us know how the diffs work out for you.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

here you go:
Using the Green...

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All of us who have built a model helicopter, are aware that the use of a thread locking compound is mandatory. Thread locking compound serves to prevent screws and nuts from loosening due to the vibration inherent in model helicopters. There are various types of compound available for different applications. One of the most useful compounds is one made by the Loctite company: Green Loctite also known by the number 290.

About #290
The application for green Loctite is indicated on the bottle. It is actually an extremely low viscosity compound that is used to "fit" a shaft to a bearing. Since the compound has such low viscosity, capillary action wicks the solution between the shaft and the inner race of the bearing. After a period of time (approximately 15 minutes), the adhesive cements itself under an anaerobic reaction. Prepare the surfaces by cleaning them with your favorite solvent. This will remove any oils and allow the small amount of adhesive we are using to be sufficient for the task

It is extremely difficult to remove the bearing from the shaft if you use an excessive amount of 290. If the bearing is one of the smaller type, you may find it impossible to remove the bearing without destroying it. What I have found to be the best method of applying the adhesive is this. Select a sharp pin, squeeze the tube of adhesive enough to place a tiny drop onto the sharp end of the pin. Carefully place the drop on the shaft next to the inner bearing race and "poke" the adhesive between them. The joint will take up the liquid and distribute it where it is needed.

Back to intro:

and yes, mine both gen and nem have green loctite, bad stuff.

Actually jombo, I think it's something similar to red loctite. The 290 is used when you join the two cylindrical shafts.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecId=1027 Even on the package it says its meant for fitting things to a shaft, such as a bearing to a shaft, not for screws. Generally meant more for cases where you would be press fittting two items.

The green that is usually meant for screws or fastening is the 609 and that is usually considered a weaker compound than the blue (medium duty). In the past I used to use red locktite for areas where I did not want to remove the screw or nut at all. Such as a pilot nut on a crankshaft.

Even the helicopter link that you have previously mentioned also states that the green 290 is used for installing bearings on the rotor head of a helicopter. A press fit compound and a fastening compound are different.

I am not trying to dismiss the fact that the Nemesis/Genesis screws are held on with threadlock from the factory. But I think it is not the green compound 290 that you are thinking of. Either way, it is best to add heat to sures to break the bond of the threadlock on the diff cases and this will also for much easier removal of the screws.

i have only used the 290 and didnt nkow of any other, but if you say there is another type of green loctite there probably is. all i know is the diffs i that i have had green loctite (because they were all over the screws) and ruened a few screws trying to remove them.

As correctly stated [link=http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3]Loctite 290 is a Super wick-in product[/link] that is primarily designed to lightly lock adjusting screws in place, after assembly.

As with all Loctite products, they can be used in multiple applications, you just need to pick the correct one for your [link=http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=20&layout=2]particular application[/link]. Sometimes the wrong product is used on a particular application, locking it completely. eg Our diff case screws, but as a lot of people have stated, heat in the correct place will fix this problem allowing disassembly.

Choose carefully,
.46NitroAddict [>:]