John,

I have a built in good condition MK (old Hobby Barn Arrow) with a Supertigre 61, tune pipe and mechanical retracts, a built Deception with I think a Webra 61 tune pipe with Kraft electric rectracts. I think the retracts may need a new controller which is still available. Also I have a built Curare in the bones which I have stripped off the old covering, just needs to be lightly sanded again before covering. The Curare is just the frame, no engine or retracts installed, the other two are planes, engines/tune pipe and retracts but no electronics. Let me know if you are interested in looking at them since you are also in CT.

Jim

Laser Cut USA, does excellent work, starting to offer classic patten plane kits. www.lasercutusa.com

Vince

John,

yet another 2 more cents...

From everything I've read so far, you are a builder at heart and wouldn't consider flying a classic pattern ARF or already built model by someone else. With some exception, I feel more or less the same way - mostly because I like to build too.

Being that the case, I think you shouldn't limit yourself to a "complete kit" to builld. Why? Because complete kits, unless they are modern CNC or laser cut versions, are not that wonderful in my opinion. As others have mentioned, vintage classic pattern kits are collectors items but many of them can leave you thinking, mmm, this wood is not that great. Since you are an experienced builder, I would not only look at what designs you like but also at what planes have been modeled extensively and are known to be good fliers. With that in mind, you could then proceed with either a complete laser cut kit (e.g., an Atlas - see active thread), a short kit (both Scott at rcfoamy and Don at Eureka have short kits), or simply scratch build. I've found that starting from scratch in a classic build doesn't add considerably to the time to get a model flight ready. The bulk of the time you spend in a build is in the finishing, assuming of course that you paint the model.

Speaking of painting, if you don't plan to paint the model, then you are mostly limited to wood fuses and verticals. You also in general have a choice on how to go about the flying surfaces. While I enjoy building balsa wings and stabs, I know I can do a better job in getting a solid, strong and symmetrical wing if I build on cores. On the other hand, one can probably build a lighter version of the wing with balsa, especially if it's not fully sheeted. Last but not least, you could also choose to build with a glass fuse and foam cores for surfaces. It is a different experience and again, if properly done, results with a truer airplane unless you are very meticulous (and many builders on this forum are) when building with wood. If glass/foam is an option, Don has done a wonderful job in preserving many classics and there are now more than a dozen designs that he can layup for you and provide you with a kit. Don (not from Eureka) has active threads on both classic forums (RCU and RCG) on his glass work.

With those points in mind I would make my decision in the following order:
[ul][*] Flying qualities and recommendations[*] Design aesthetics [*] Full wood build, wood and foam or glass and foam[*] Plastic covered, plastic and paint or all paint
[/ul]
That list will narrow down your choices substantially and help in choosing a model you will be happy to build and fly. If I remember correctly, you are also looking for a design that is SPA approved so that narrows things down as well.

David.

David
I have been looking hard at the Eureka short kits, I probably have enough balsa to finish 2 or 3 short kits. I am fond of wood, but I can also cut cores so just getting a set of plans and a glass fuse might be the way to go.

Lot of info here. Wing Mfg. has a Phoenix 5 glass and foam, $200.00. Here it is in flight, Tom Scott's.

Crank

Bluejay models has some nice Joe Bridi pattern ship kits and they are fantastic. I have built two of the 40 size Vagabonds which is basicly the same as the Kaos, but with a turtle deck. Real nice flying pattern plane and the bluejay kits are top notch.

http://www.bridiairplanes.com/

Well, if that's the case, then you could build a wood model from a short kit and while the Titebond is drying, you can make progress on a glass/foam model... I'd order an Atlanta from Don while they are available - beautiful model. Pretty tricky to build one from wood too. As for a starting classic model, the Deception is a very easy plane to build and very capable. You could cut the cores yourself for the wing/stab and I can send you the plans if you need them. Scott also sells cores and canopy for the plane.

Whatever you build, trike retracts and a pipe are mandatory (well, almost...)

Oh, you should check out Dave Phillips' late 70's early 80's photo collection - many good models from back in the day to take a look at:

http://www.trentonrcflyers.com/patte...idphillips.htm

UFO's, Dirty Birdy's, Bootleggers, Tiger Tails, EU-1A's, Tipo's, Curare's, Compensators, Atlas', Deception's and, rather unique, Jim Kimbro's Double Vision (a Deception variation). The Double Vision was a Deception with a wing mounted on the thrust line that was installed from above. I'll post a picture of this last pair.

David.

John

I sent you the list that you asked for.

Don

The Sweetater is on my must build list. If your kit is a pristine collector kit you might find somebody to pay $300+ But as a builder i think most would just buy the Eureka Sweetater for $130 and not have to worry about warped, cracked wood etc.

Thanks to all that have offerd help and suggestions, looks like I almost have it narrowed down to a couple of choices.