Electrify a MV1 Typhoon?
03-14-2012, 05:24 AM
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Electrify a MV1 Typhoon?
I would appreciate any helpful information on this idea? Links to other threads doing this same subject on different designs etc. Typhoon 909 from around 1988.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
03-14-2012, 07:09 AM
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RE: Electrify a MV1 Typhoon?
Tim
Sounds like a good idea, I can make the aircraft, but don't have any help at this time. would suggest talking to somebody flying regular pattern. The last pattern contest I went to was about 60 elec.
Good Luck and keep me posted
Jim Graham,
jog0723
Sounds like a good idea, I can make the aircraft, but don't have any help at this time. would suggest talking to somebody flying regular pattern. The last pattern contest I went to was about 60 elec.
Good Luck and keep me posted
Jim Graham,
jog0723
03-14-2012, 08:48 AM
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RE: Electrify a MV1 Typhoon?
Hi Tim,
hope you got my reply to your PM.
What are the specs on the model (span, length, area=909 squares, configuration)? Other than finding the right motor (which is not hard with such a wide selection), the main limitation to making a classic an electric model, is in how easy it is to access the battery and how to cool the motor and ESC. For glass/foam models, you might want to take a look at Doug's Conquest IV build on RCG. You'll see how a hatch was made out of the canopy to allow battery swapping. Having a belly pan also made the access to the motor/ESC and cooling a little easier. For single piece fuses, access to the motor is a little trickier and either you have a way to access the motor easily from within the wing saddle and bolt the motor to a nose plate or, you detach the section from the FW forward and turn it into a cowl that mates flush with the fuse. A 1/8" lite ply "cowl ring" that holds the shape of the glass in the rear takes care of mounting the cowl to the fuse and firewall. It can be done with strong magnets.
Current F3A designs have huge canopies that are detachable to allow access to the fuse interior for radio and power. They also have plug-in wings (mostly) which makes a single point of access from the top practical and structurally sound. With a single piece wing classic and a fuse wing saddle, you'll want to limit the size of the hatch made on the top to access the battery and ESC.
Do you have a plan of the model?
David
hope you got my reply to your PM.
What are the specs on the model (span, length, area=909 squares, configuration)? Other than finding the right motor (which is not hard with such a wide selection), the main limitation to making a classic an electric model, is in how easy it is to access the battery and how to cool the motor and ESC. For glass/foam models, you might want to take a look at Doug's Conquest IV build on RCG. You'll see how a hatch was made out of the canopy to allow battery swapping. Having a belly pan also made the access to the motor/ESC and cooling a little easier. For single piece fuses, access to the motor is a little trickier and either you have a way to access the motor easily from within the wing saddle and bolt the motor to a nose plate or, you detach the section from the FW forward and turn it into a cowl that mates flush with the fuse. A 1/8" lite ply "cowl ring" that holds the shape of the glass in the rear takes care of mounting the cowl to the fuse and firewall. It can be done with strong magnets.
Current F3A designs have huge canopies that are detachable to allow access to the fuse interior for radio and power. They also have plug-in wings (mostly) which makes a single point of access from the top practical and structurally sound. With a single piece wing classic and a fuse wing saddle, you'll want to limit the size of the hatch made on the top to access the battery and ESC.
Do you have a plan of the model?
David
