jquid

It will, however meet the BPA "Requirements"

www.ballisticpattern.com

ChiefK

David,

I notice that your fuselage has a reinforcement strip from the nose to as far back as I can see in your photo. My fuselage does not have that. Did you add it or did W-K feel the need to beef this area up.

BTW - it looks like power will be a NEW Webra Speed .61 for my Tipo. Got it on eB** at a great price. Bench ran my old Kraft .61 yesterday at the flying field after it spent 30 years in a storage box. It was last mounted in the Mach 1, back about 1978-79. (picture posted earlier). It started right up and ran GREAT. I was amazed! My fellow flyers didn't appreciate the noise though.... forgot to bring the muffler. I've got to find a project for that engine now, as well as for my O.S. 75. I'm thinking about an Ultimate Bipe for the .75. There's a lot of them available. Any thoughts on which Ultimate would be best suited for the .75?

ChiefK

8178

My Feedback: (17)

My Great Planes fuse did not have that strip either.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

ChiefK (is this the right forum protocol for addressing members?)

Our Tipo fuses are cast by different manufacturer's. Mine is a Great Planes like the one built by 8178. There are 4 strips of reinforcement that run the length of the fuse from front to back - two along the sides and one on top and bottom at the seam joint. The glass is "raw" unlike newer gel coated glass fuses. As 8178 pointed out some threads back, the nice aspect of this is that you can see through as you're building. However, I understand that gel coating has some benefits to the finish (although I have never painted a gel coated fuse). Perhaps your W-K Tipo is gel coated?

Good stuff on the engines! I also have a Speed 61 with a Dynamix carb (a real tweakers delight and a b*** to set up!). Bought it second hand and have never fired it up. I expect to be doing so very soon too... Mach 1's were very nice. You guys probably all know about Aztec Air (www.aztecair.net) and the assorted other ballistic manufacturers (thought I'd mention them anyway) George makes some nice glass kits of the bygone era. If I could only find someone who has the knowhow to make me a second Tipo fuse at a reasonable cost... (any composite guys out there have any suggestions?)

I'm not sure it's appropriate to discuss other projects on this thread (please comment on this 8178 if this should move elsewhere), however...The OS 75 strikes me as a very versatile engine. A number of projects come to mind, notably a Pitts, an Ultimate or a Skybolt. GP makes a very nice Skybolt both in kit and ARF (the latter has some structural niceities over the kit but then again... standard finish and no building). I'm not so familiar with the Ultimate's available in this size. There are a few Pitts out there. I think there are also standard Pitts mufflers for the 75.

Another idea (more in line with this forum!) would be to look for a nice pattern ship with an inverted and cowled engine mount setup - again George (see site above) has a few of these such as the Cursor and the Summit (my two favorites). You would use a custom header on the engine to route the exhaust back to the rear where the pipe is mounted in the belly pan (again my preferred location for a pipe - I like these ships to look like I could have skateboarded on them when I was a kid!). The cursor is a tail dragger so somewhat newer in design than the 80's ballistic planes. A SE engine might have the header peeking out from the nose part of the belly pan but this is considered by some (including the current F3A champ) to be cool (see photos). In any case, these planes might have some more "Air Force" style than a bipe but to me... all planes are cool especially if they are the product of one's efforts!

Well, that was long.

Cheers, David.

P.S. Do let us know if this is considered thread hijacking (I have the feeling it is). We'll get back onto the master subject - the Tipo.

ChiefK

Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I don't think we hijacked this thread at all, just expanded the conversation temporarily.

My W-K fuselage was not gel coated. It looks identical to yours except for the extra reinforcement strips. After seeing yours, and considering the long nose moment, I think the reinforcement makes sense. It might have been a real problem if I'd put the bigger OS .75 in the nose, but even the Webra .61 will shake that front end.

There is a thread for a .40 size Curare (called a Minare I think) that uses the flap/dive brake system by Prettner that I'm putting into my Tipo. The thread included some new info about the throw that I hadn't seen before. Maximum deflection is not supposed to exceed 40 degrees. Glad I saw it, because I was thinking about 60 degrees.

ChiefK

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

ChiefK,

The fuse re-inforcement shouldn't be too complicated I would think. Perhaps you could lay two strips along the sides from nose to LE as well as re-inforce the engine bay in front of the FW. 8178 has a Sullivan soft mount in his and apparently a pumped OS 61 SF doesn't cause the spinner to dance around. Even though both our fuses are GP (8178's and mine), his apparently didn't have the strips. Maybe an earlier kit.

I should be receiving a second vintage GP kit this month so I'll be able to compare glass and wood in the two kits. I hope to get started on the twins in September. It should be a workout as I would like to make 4 wings/stabs; 2 as replacement's (but they won't be needed... right!?) or... for eventual built up fuses. I think with a little help from Curare 60 plans, a Tipo fuse could be pulled into shape from wood. I like the "trueness" of glass/foam but I prefer working with wood... just a material I've known for many years.

Interesting you mention the Minare. I thought a 40 size brother to the Tipo (I've always thought of the Tipo as a "she")) would be cool to have with my 30 year old (but still in great shape) SuperTigre S40 blue head with a blue pipe and spinner. One Tipo might end up with an OS 61 RF Hanno red head (and a custom header)... and natually an OS red pipe and spinner. Now, there's a cliche image of boys and girls for you red and blue!

Can't wait 'til next summer... hopefully I'll have a couple of pictures to show!

Oh... and I suppose a 20 size electric "baby sister" wouldn't hurt either!

I might have to consult with Dan at Carolina Custom for all this trickery to the Tipo. So far I haven't had any "affordable" luck in pulling a second Tipo glass fuse from my original. Dan, if you read this and have any comments about the feasability of producing a plug and mold for a Tipo fuse, don't hesitate. Mine is intact, solid and just waiting for some digitizing (BobCAD!?) By the way, I checked with GP about pulling one or two Tipo fuses and they didn't have any objections. George at Aztec Air also suggested I contact you.

Cheers, David.

gkaraolides

Hey 8178,

Love the planes you build - spent most of this week reading your build threads for the Blue Angel and Tiporare and watching the flight videos. Congratulations, you are helping me build up the stock of inspiration I need to take the plunge, re-enter the hobby I quit 20 years ago and re-discover my love of building and flying these classic pattern ships.

I seem to recall you posting somewhere that you've put a firewall-mounted nose retract in your Tipo. Would you mind posting how you get into the nose to screw it in? I've been trying to work it out from the photos and can't for the life of me. How d' ya get that dang thing in thar? Is the canopy removable?

Best regards,

George

8178

My Feedback: (17)

George, welcome back and thanks for the comments. I’m glad you find the build threads helpful.

I used 4-40 blind nuts and 4–40 hex-head socket bolts to mount the Spring Air firewall mount nose gear. The gear was test fitted to the firewall before the firewall was glassed to the fuselage to make sure everything fit OK. I use a 4-40 hex-ball driver to install and remove the bolts. I have a number of hex-ball driver sizes that I’ve been using for decades. They are great tools for getting bolts into tight spaces, e.g. gear, engine mount, engine bolts.

There is a lot of room in the nose of the Tiporare to mount the gear and I also have my air fill valve and off-on switch wire in the wheel well. The cutout opening on the bottom of the fuselage was kept as small as possible but provides enough room to install and remove the gear through the wheel opening. I made the steering cable mount removable but it turned out that the gear can be installed and removed with the cable in place.

I’ve attached some close-up images below.

gkaraolides

Many thanks 8178,

You're not only a great builder, but incredibly generous with your time and information too! Answer illustrated with specially taken pics... What can I say? Any time you're in the Eastern Med, your beers are on me. Pretty impressive credentials in keyhole surgery too, getting that nose gear in there through the wheel opening. Is there no end to your talents?

I see that's a firewall-mounted single-steering Spring Air nose gear you've got there. It's not entirely clear from Spring Air's website that they have such an item available . I've read elsewhere on the forum that others too think their website is a bit unclear. I emailed them and their response, though very prompt, was a bit cryptic. Would you mind posting the item number for this nose gear if you have it?

Thanks.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Glad I could help. I don’t recall the part number for these. The folks at Spring Air follow RCU so you could give them a link to my Tiporare build. These have 5/32" struts and the nose gear is called firewall mount.

dquatse

my friend just gave me a tipp (dave hanson ver.???) w/ a 61sf OS w/ a custom tuned pipe made only for the tippo (so im told) . my question is does anybody use the pull-pull elevator? and if so how did you do yours?

8178

My Feedback: (17)

dquatse

i did see that on your plane , which by the way , IT IS BEAUTIFUL. i think im going to try the pull-pull just to be different .

thanks

8178

My Feedback: (17)

70s Flyer

Great flight.Nice looking Tipo

8178

My Feedback: (17)

8178

My Feedback: (17)

My next build is my Cold Duck design that was published in RCM in 1971 and can be seen here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3092876/tm.htm

RCfred_68

Hi -

New to this thread, I love the finish on that Tipo. Can you tell what finishing products and process you used? Did you glass the wing?

I have a NIB Great Planes Illusion, that I was considering building. I used have to call it the 25 year build, though!!

RC Fred

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Fred,

while not wanting to interject Mike's response to your question I can tell you that it is finished in Lustrekote (primer and paint) with Monokote covered wing and stab. Not sure about the stab - it might be painted but fairly sure it is also covered.

Finishing has a lot more to do with the process than with the materials.

I hope you decide to build that Illusion. I have one as well which one day will get built.

David.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the nice comments about the Tiporare. The fuselage is painted and the wing and stab are covered in MonoKote. I used the old Chevron Perfect Paint but the white color turned yellow after a few months so I primered the white part with MonoKote Lustrekote primer and then Monokote Lustrekote white. I prefer to use Monokote on the wing and stab to save weight.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Mike,

did you find your LK Missile Red to be "orange" compared to the same colour MK? Mine appears to be seriously orange after a few coats. Looks like LK will have to be exchanged for something that matches better.

The nozzles on LK aren't great either I must say - I recall you having "sputter" problems on your BA toward the end. No accidental soft depressing of those nozzles!

David.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I don’t believe I’ve I used LK red before. The red on the Tipo is the old Chevron paint. Did you use the white LK primer as required?

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

I did a test using the high build primer used as a base coat, followed by LK primer and then shot the missile red. I have two old rolls of missile red but it is much redder than the 2 coats of LK shot atop their primer. Maybe 2 coats are not enough but it still doesn't look like the right hue.

I've heard several stories with LK not matching MK properly, especially the lighter colours (red, yellow). I think I'm just going to try and find a closer match in Dupli-Color automotive paint. I'm not liking how the LK is coming out of the can. It feels like it might sputter any moment.

I'm glad you didn't have too many of these issues other than with the clear - or maybe you did?

David.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I only had spray blob problems with the clear. I expect that I bought it too soon in the build process and it became old. The clear worked fine on the Blue Angel.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks Mike,

we'll see how it goes. Going to try something different that I'll pick up today. I'm anxious to see some colours on the 28 year project (Tipo vintage is 1983)...[:-]

David.