Webra ID
#3
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Thanks Terry. I think it's a 1030 racing 61, too. I don't have it in my hands yet, so I don't know if it's ringed or ABC (they made both versions according to the Webra site). I bought it from Paul's Model Supply at auction for $37. Webra still sells all the parts for it, in case it needs anything replaced. Now that I have a rear exhaust .61 there are lots of new possibilities in terms of models I can build for it.
David
David
#4
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From: Transylvania,
LA
Several years ago I bought a ringed and an ABC version and never got around to running them. They ought to be screamers. Have a couple of side exhaust long strokes too. Can't bring myself to run a new engine until it is about to go into a plane.
Terry in LP
#5
IT has been a long time..... but the cob webs tells me the Racing 61F (1030) had the black head with the polished ring around it. The 61FC (1030C) was the same as the 1030 with the addition of the dynamix carb. And the 61LS (1033CP) was the all solid black head engine. Here is a pic. of the 61FC
#6
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Thanks impactiq. Most Webras I've seen don't have the model numbers on them. I'll learn more when I get it, but it does look more like the 61LS head.
http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.ph...e=AERO&lang=EN
David
http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.ph...e=AERO&lang=EN
David
#7
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From: Munich, GERMANY
Definitely NOT!
The engine with the all black head is the shortstroke, the engine with the polished ring is the long stroke.
You can imagine that for both engines use the same crankscase, but the longstroke with its longer hub has a higher liner. You can see that longer liner between the case and the head, look for that brass ring !!!
Best Regards,
Rainer
German F3A Team Manager
The engine with the all black head is the shortstroke, the engine with the polished ring is the long stroke.
You can imagine that for both engines use the same crankscase, but the longstroke with its longer hub has a higher liner. You can see that longer liner between the case and the head, look for that brass ring !!!
Best Regards,
Rainer
German F3A Team Manager
#9
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From: Munich, GERMANY
Exactly, that's it!
The Racing 61F C, as you can find it on the Webra home page (aero engines) is the revival of the "classic" Webra Racing (1030). It has a modified crankshaft (8mm instead of the former 1/4"). Bore is still 24mm, stroke 20mm, recommended propellers 11x6/12x8, everything typical for a SHORT stroke.
Rainer
The Racing 61F C, as you can find it on the Webra home page (aero engines) is the revival of the "classic" Webra Racing (1030). It has a modified crankshaft (8mm instead of the former 1/4"). Bore is still 24mm, stroke 20mm, recommended propellers 11x6/12x8, everything typical for a SHORT stroke.
Rainer
#11

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From: Columbus,
OH
ORIGINAL: flywilly
Who is importing Webras into the USA these days?
Who is importing Webras into the USA these days?
http://www.swanyshouse.com/engines/engines.aspx
Tom
#12
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Paul's Model Supply is an importer:
http://www.paulsmodelsupply.com/
He can get any parts you might need. I have purchased parts for my old Webra 6.5ccm's from him.
David
http://www.paulsmodelsupply.com/
He can get any parts you might need. I have purchased parts for my old Webra 6.5ccm's from him.
David
#15
The one in my previous post is a 1030 just like the one in your add picture with the only difference being the head with the ring around it. If you look at the space between the head / crank case in your ad picture and compare it to mine..... the spacing is the same. I'll half to dig out my webra LS and do some comparing.
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From: Asuncion, PARAGUAY
Hello All,
Webra normally have a serial number. Webra can tell you, with that serial number exactly what model it is.
Those webra's are all fine engines. Seems to hold longer then the old good OS engines.
And can giv a lot power too.
Webra normally have a serial number. Webra can tell you, with that serial number exactly what model it is.
Those webra's are all fine engines. Seems to hold longer then the old good OS engines.
And can giv a lot power too.
#17
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From: -.--.-..---..---.-.-.-....-.., FINLAND
Hi all,
I bought sometime ago a RE Webra, now it looks likes first pic of rainedav, but with Dynamax carb.
Maybe this is #1030 , drive shaft is 1/4" (not 8mm)
(havent given this any attention since I made a couple of co-pilots (now 1 & 3 years old) but hopefully looking some Curare/magic/arrow for it)
Here are a couple of pics....
However I cannot find any s/n on my Webras?
I bought sometime ago a RE Webra, now it looks likes first pic of rainedav, but with Dynamax carb.
Maybe this is #1030 , drive shaft is 1/4" (not 8mm)
(havent given this any attention since I made a couple of co-pilots (now 1 & 3 years old) but hopefully looking some Curare/magic/arrow for it)
Here are a couple of pics....
However I cannot find any s/n on my Webras?
#19
Did you notice that the Dynamix is listed for the Speed/Racing 61F ([link=http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.php?search=DYNAMIX&folder=CARBURETTOR&lang=E N]here[/link]) while the TN II is listed for the "normal" Speed/Racing 61 ([link=http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.php?search=TN%20II&folder=CARBURETTOR&lang=E N]here[/link]). F or not F may be the question.
#20
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The engine arrived today and I cleaned it up a bit. It's in very good condition internally. There is no visible wear on the rod bushings. The piston was just starting to get that light golden varnish, but there was no black carbon anywhere, even up inside the piston. I have learned that one sure sign of an engine that has been run lean and hard is egging of the top rod bushing with black residue. The bearings are not rusty, but rougher than I trust so I'll get a new set from RC Bearings. The crank looks almost new. The best news, IMO, is that it's the Dykes ring version, not ABC. I know you can get a few hundred more rpm out of ABC engines, but I don't even want to think what Webra sells a new piston/liner set for. Frank Bowman has the ring in stock for $14 shipped. Scuff up the sleeve, put in a ring, and you've got many more gallons of use. The only part that looks bad is the head. I might see if a friend who anodizes engine parts can restore its appearance. The rest of the external parts look great.
I haven't bought a header yet because I'm not sure what plane I want to build for this. So, it will be a while before I run it.
David
I haven't bought a header yet because I'm not sure what plane I want to build for this. So, it will be a while before I run it.
David
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From: Euharlee,
GA
ORIGINAL: rainedave
I have a feeling the carb on mine is not what came with it. The previous owner might have removed the Dynamix and replaced it with the TN II.
David
I have a feeling the carb on mine is not what came with it. The previous owner might have removed the Dynamix and replaced it with the TN II.
David
I read through some older posts where guys were saying they preferred the TN II carb for it's ease of use...The Dynamix is apparently a little bit of a pain to get set-up...I personally don't think it will be a problem but can see where folks may not consider it quite as "user friendly" as a more conventional carb...
Just some observations...
Chuck
#22
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I've never operated the Dynamix, but I have three other TN's and they are really simple to adjust. Like most two needle carbs, you can only adjust the low speed needle after the high speed is set near peak. This seems to be more critical with my Webra TN's than with the average OS carbs.
I cleaned a bit more and scuffed up the sleeve with 320 wet/dry soaked with castor oil (you have to de-glaze them). As you know, Dykes rings typically don't create a great seal when hand flipping the engine. That's how they're designed. The seal is created on the downstroke as the combustion gases actually expand the ring against the sleeve. On the upstroke the ring imposes a lot less pressure against the sleeve creating less friction and drag. So, you don't feel the same kind of compression pop when hand flipping that you do with conventional rings and ABC engines. Still, there is a good pop with this engine.
Now, I have a question. What was the most commonly used header style for upright installations in classic designs? The fuselage top, 15° straight, or 90° straight? Maybe that's a stupid question since I really need to choose a plane first.[sm=bananahead.gif] I'm just impatient to run this thing.
David
I cleaned a bit more and scuffed up the sleeve with 320 wet/dry soaked with castor oil (you have to de-glaze them). As you know, Dykes rings typically don't create a great seal when hand flipping the engine. That's how they're designed. The seal is created on the downstroke as the combustion gases actually expand the ring against the sleeve. On the upstroke the ring imposes a lot less pressure against the sleeve creating less friction and drag. So, you don't feel the same kind of compression pop when hand flipping that you do with conventional rings and ABC engines. Still, there is a good pop with this engine.
Now, I have a question. What was the most commonly used header style for upright installations in classic designs? The fuselage top, 15° straight, or 90° straight? Maybe that's a stupid question since I really need to choose a plane first.[sm=bananahead.gif] I'm just impatient to run this thing.
David
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From: -.--.-..---..---.-.-.-....-.., FINLAND
Hi there, if I remember right on settings of Dynamix main needle is as any other,
you open it and engine is gettig rich, however when you are setting your low speed needle this action is opposite -> opening needle is leaning settings....
Correct me if I'm wrong, it's hard to remember since this engine/carburettor combo is set and forget type.
you open it and engine is gettig rich, however when you are setting your low speed needle this action is opposite -> opening needle is leaning settings....
Correct me if I'm wrong, it's hard to remember since this engine/carburettor combo is set and forget type.



