Which would you do?
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
OK fellas, looking for opinions.
I am looking to start a classic pattern project (my second). I have the below pictured Tiger Tail 3, and a WM Intruder ARF with the covering stripped off. My engine would be an AXE/Rossi .60 side exhaust with a pipe and I will install Spring Air retracts on the intruder (which I have) or refurb the Tiger Tail (needs sanding, repaint and some structural repair, leave the Dave Brown retracts).
If you were me, which would you do?
Dave[img][/img]
I am looking to start a classic pattern project (my second). I have the below pictured Tiger Tail 3, and a WM Intruder ARF with the covering stripped off. My engine would be an AXE/Rossi .60 side exhaust with a pipe and I will install Spring Air retracts on the intruder (which I have) or refurb the Tiger Tail (needs sanding, repaint and some structural repair, leave the Dave Brown retracts).
If you were me, which would you do?
Dave[img][/img]
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
The hardest part will be stripping the old monokote off the wings! Any advice? I try to pull it off, all I get is clear film and the white stays on the wing.
#4
dave, i have the same problem on a Skymaster i'm restoring. i have picked, scraped and sanded and i still have a lot of white left. actually the project has been shelved for a while but i wish i knew how to get the monocote off.
#5

My Feedback: (15)
Hey Dave - I just sent a NIB Tiger Tail to a guy up in Illinois. You should have got that. Decent price too. Included here is Ron Chidgey's T-Tail III, and a WM Intruder by a guy in Alabama. I have stripped and covered a couple of Intruder's, there are many pictures of them already posted. Make the T Tail look like Chidgey's.
Crank
Crank
#9

My Feedback: (3)
In that case you want to be careful with solvents. However, you could try some MK solvent which is typically used for applying trim without heat. It activates the glue via chemical reaction which is, I believe, also reversible. In other words, if you let the solvent creep under the covering, it might loosen it up.
Something to try on a wing tip first maybe.
David.
Something to try on a wing tip first maybe.
David.
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (44)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: kuna,
ID
if you have a woodcraft store nearby, they sell a CA glue remover in a small bottle about 4 ounces, its actually straight nitromethane, and i use frequently to remove monokote, adhesive and monokote pigment, its made by golden west, i love the stuff it real loosens up monokote and CA right now
, and use a rear exhaust rossi its really the thing to do!
, and use a rear exhaust rossi its really the thing to do!
#12
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: kaneohe,
HI
So De-Bonder is really just nitromethane?? wow good to know!
I just knocked over a bottle of med. CA on my desk... right onto a pair of glasses [:@]
Yeah I'll be heading down to Woodcraft. Gotta make sure not to bring too much money and no credit cards! That place is dangerous.
DM
I just knocked over a bottle of med. CA on my desk... right onto a pair of glasses [:@]
Yeah I'll be heading down to Woodcraft. Gotta make sure not to bring too much money and no credit cards! That place is dangerous.
DM
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Rutherfordton,
NC
Try some heat (as mentioned earlier) when removing the Monokote (or other plastic film). The covering film itself is usually clear polyester film ..... the color (pigment) is embedded in the heat activated adhesive on the back of the film. Once you get the clear film off ...... what is left on the balsa is just pigmented adhesive. You could probably get most of that off (enough so you can ignore the rest when recovering [unless using transparent]) by rubbing it off with a trim solvent soaked cloth.
Ed
Ed
#17
ORIGINAL: Ed Lyerly
Try some heat (as mentioned earlier) when removing the Monokote (or other plastic film). The covering film itself is usually clear polyester film ..... the color (pigment) is embedded in the heat activated adhesive on the back of the film. Once you get the clear film off ...... what is left on the balsa is just pigmented adhesive. You could probably get most of that off (enough so you can ignore the rest when recovering [unless using transparent]) by rubbing it off with a trim solvent soaked cloth.
Ed
Try some heat (as mentioned earlier) when removing the Monokote (or other plastic film). The covering film itself is usually clear polyester film ..... the color (pigment) is embedded in the heat activated adhesive on the back of the film. Once you get the clear film off ...... what is left on the balsa is just pigmented adhesive. You could probably get most of that off (enough so you can ignore the rest when recovering [unless using transparent]) by rubbing it off with a trim solvent soaked cloth.
Ed
i'm going to try that today.
#18
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
Guess I'll pull the TTIII down from the attic and look her over closely. The stab was busted during my last move with the military, but I think I can fix it.
#19
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
It's going to be a lot of sanding, glass patching and Bondo for the chips and such. I worry the firewall and inside wood structure might be a little over fuel soaked to use. I'll get some pictures together and let you guys chime in on if the project is really viable or not. The wing is in great shape though.
Dave
Dave
#20
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
Here are a bunch of pictures. The tang over the rudder is missing (i'm sure I can reconstruct something), but the big job is fixing the stab. It's been completely broken free of the fuselage ($%^& MOVERS!). Not sure the firewall wood looks all that great, but I'll take any and all opinions before I sink the effort into this one. The engine mount is junk and would be replaced, plus it's off center. Again, the wing is in great shape. Mainly worried about that stab.
ALL comments welcomed.
ALL comments welcomed.
#21
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: kaneohe,
HI
Ouch!! was looking really good until I saw the stab saddle.
Repairable definately! with the help of the gods in here.
Off the top of my head, Chuck (Atlant60) and Mike (8178) can lead you in the right direction.
Take a look at 8178's thread on his SBA. He did quite a bit of glass repair on it and it looks perfect!
That mount better be drilled for a Rossi rear exhaust!!
Check you email Dave.
DM
Repairable definately! with the help of the gods in here.

Off the top of my head, Chuck (Atlant60) and Mike (8178) can lead you in the right direction.
Take a look at 8178's thread on his SBA. He did quite a bit of glass repair on it and it looks perfect!
That mount better be drilled for a Rossi rear exhaust!!

Check you email Dave.
DM
#22
Senior Member
My Feedback: (44)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: kuna,
ID
its very doable. i would cut out the rudder block, and then have excellent access to fix the stab fractures, then make new rudder hinge block and carry on, the firewall could use some cleanup, but seems viable, i see some rot on the pipe floor at the front, cut it out and patch it then re coat with epoxy. dont get rid of the engine mount its a keeper. oh and get some carbon veil it rocks for this kinda fixin!
#23
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (47)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Irving,
TX
WOW thanks guys! Maybe with some help I can have this ready for next summers BPA meet! I will definately need some advice. So be ready for some questions!
First thing I thought, was sand away whats left of the fillet on the stab and pull it completely out since it's broken loose all the way around. Then repair the cracks, re-install and fillet the stab.
Here we go!
First thing I thought, was sand away whats left of the fillet on the stab and pull it completely out since it's broken loose all the way around. Then repair the cracks, re-install and fillet the stab.
Here we go!


