Johnkpap

Nice ST's David !!!

I am in Sydney for server Training, I plan to visit a few model shops.

Any one in Sydney That Knows of any Old Grotty Ones with Old stock and Kit's I suspect all I am going to find are ARF's

Johnkpap

rv7driver

My Feedback: (105)

Summerwind, you can count me in for a kit of the FF! Regards, Pete

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

John,

thanks - it's always fun to gather these ST pictures and see them together. Makes me want to see them at work...

So how's the build coming along? If you have difficulty procuring a 4 oz tank in Oz, one can certainly be ordered from online stores. Perhaps stores in places like Singapore are a little closer to you guys. Singapore hobbies is a place that many of us drool about!

Mike,

thanks for your PM. I'll get back to you soon. Wife's under the weather and I've had my plate full with the little ones. I did check out your two scale builds though - I stand in awe! Scale builders are true craftsmen of this hobby. Maybe one day I'll build up the courage. I pulled out my Dirty Birdy 20 plan (48" span, 75% scale) after giving more thought to a home for the X25. I think I might be zeroing in to the idea. I started taking measurements of the wood stock and other parts... always somewhat indicative.

David.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Pete,

long time since we've posted side by each. How's things?

David.

flying pastor

.20 size models and engines used to be really popular. There are 2 engines in this size bracket available in the UK. Firstly the Thunder Tiger GP .18 which seems to be fairly light weight and then we have the PAW range of diesel motors which include a .19r/c. I think ENYA .19's were available until fairly recently. I think that a flea fly would go very well one of the more more powerful .15's that we have nowadays. The radio gear will be much lighter than it used to be. Although I fly electric at present I still have a few engines including a Fuji .19 (Enya .19 copy).....I wonder!!!!! Keep the thread going I can remember tha plan coming out in the RCME but unfortunately I don't have a copy.
Chris UK.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Chris,

posts 15 and 18 contain the article and a PDF of the FF plan if you are interested.

David.

flying pastor

Thanks David. Incidentally Enya list a .20tv engine on their website. It appears to be stocked by Steve Webb in the UK. In the US "BJ's model engine service" seem to be Enya dealers and can order. Or you can deal with Enya directly. My memory banks tell me that Phil Kraft won a world championship using an aircraft ( Kwik Fly ?) using an Enya .60.
Can anybody tell me how to print out a plan to its full size using tiled pages as I only have an A4 printer? Is there some software I require?
Chris...UK.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Chris,

I do that from time to time but it is somewhat time consuming. They also serve well for reference but I'm not sure I would build from them, say to cut parts from.

However, the tiling is a function of your printer driver. When you print, you can have the driver tile the pages to whatever size paper you intend to use. Then, once printed, there is a lot of straight edge cutting involved and it never quite works out particularly on sheets which are in the middle. It is also possible to tile pages in an application like Photoshop but the printer driver, if capable, is just as effective.

If you are having trouble, let us know and I can upload a tiled plan for A4.

It would be easier to simply have them printed by a service and have them shipped to you if you don't have a local facility. About $8, a coupla quid.

David.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Adobe has a feature that allows you to tile print large files.

Edit: David's right. I can be a pain to try and tape all those pages together. It would be best to download it to a memory stick and take it to a print shop.

flying pastor

Thanks to you both. I built a Jensen Ugly stik last winter from tiled plans and had no problems but there are a lot of straight lines in an Ugly Stik to use for reference! I have realised that I was using a different printer last year which probably had more options on it. I will go the memory stick route when I next go to a town with the appropriate facilities.
Thanks again...Chris.

summerwind

hey guys,
just wanted let you all know that i will be ordering wood by middle to end of next month for the FF. i'm movin a bit slow here and i apologize for that as i have a few PM's now from those wanting a kit when that happens.
i'm also still looking for engines and whatnot, so i've had a lot of money tied up in that shopping spree

one thing that really gets me though is the guys on ebay who say NIB ST .23.........when i get them they are a joke.
i've sent 2 back now, received 1 that was actually Brand New in the Box, and the recent one that had the flow thru muffler i was looking for is in very good shape, but certainly not NIB.
it has some play in the rod/crankpin that is probably OK as the rods weren't bushed.

if anyone on here has a Rod for a ST .23 (preferably NIB) please let me know if i can buy it from you.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Mike,

try robair81 on the auction site:

http://stores.ebay.com/ROBAIR-HOBBY-SHOP

They have a bunch of engine parts and might just have what you need even if they are not listed. They are actually a hobby store here in Montreal (I believe) which I've never been to (a little far away).

I won't mention the NIB statement about engines being sold. I've mostly had good luck but once, I received this (see pictures) and it was described as NIB. The seller never was able to admit that it was used and wouldn't want to come to what struck me as a fairly generous compromise on my part. The muffler and engine was soaked in fuel, even had paint on it and was bolted on to a DB engine mount! It looked like it came straight off a model.

In the end, the auction site found in my favor (actually their payment service) and reimbursed me and debited his account. I was willing to settle for a couple of bucks but in the end the seller paid dearly for falsely describing and misleading a customer. His rating also took a nose dive. 'nough said.

Good luck with your search for ST .23's. Nice little engines.

David.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Guys, there are lots of current production engines that would be great for the Flea Fli.
ASP 21
ASP 25
Fox 25
GMS 25
HB 21 PDP
HP 20 Gold Cup
K&B 18
MVVS 21
MVVS 25 ACES
OS 25AX
Webra Speed 25
Thunder Tiger GP28

Hmmm that HP gold cup looks goooood.... Get crackin on them thar kits Summerwind!!

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jeff,

nice list!

Before getting carried away though, it strikes me as though this model is really a 30 ouncer tops. With under 40" of span and a shortish fuse there's no reason why it should weigh more. I think that an average 21-23 or a strong 18-19 should be more than enough - built lightly. A 25 strikes me as overpowering this little plane not to mention the nose weight. The tail feathers would have to be built heavy with a 25 and the end result wouldn't be too satisfactory.

As I see it, this is a 20 size model, not a 30 size model (engines 25-35).

David.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

David,
I fully agree, just thowing engine options out there to get people thinking. I plan on using a Schnurle ported BB Fox .19 that I picked up at a swap meet for $20 (New in Box)!

summerwind

i diecided to put this on mine.............axial rolls should be crowd pleasers

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I think you decided to unload it.... [&:] Hopefully to fund some laser cut balsa.

summerwind

yep, but no one wnats it or any other engines lately.......sign of tough times i think.

i'm sure not gonna ebay it.

i do like sticking with the lighter engines for the FF.
i posted a topic in the engine forum and apparently there are a few people out there that can either make parts or do bushing of worn parts like i asked about.

it would be good to find other engines of the lighter side for this plane.

i mentioned that i have a FF + 10, and i decided to use the ST X25 in it..........it's gonna need a shoe horn to fit it in there.

summerwind

has anyone bought balsa from this guy?

prices are more than Lonestar by about 10cents per sheet, but just in case



http://www.thebalsastore.com/

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

I'm afraid I have no online balsa purchasing experience. I've always bough locally except for some sheet stock I've bought at Tower on and off - reasonable stuff.

I'm thinking of putting this one in mine - a K&B 18 Aero. K&B states that, on a pipe, this little beast puts out oodles of horsepower. Others haven't been so optimistic. I'm just going to make this a simple vintage classic build and use the included muffler and something like an 8x4 to 8x6 prop. I hope to build the airframe to 14 oz tops for an AUW of not more than 30 oz.

With the FF, that will bring my growing 10 size pattern fleet to 5 models - 2 built, 1 under construction, 2 remain:
[ul][*] Tiporare 10 (electric 300W no gear)[*] Tsunami 10 (electric 300W with retracts)[*] Deception 10 (ST G23 with trike retracts)[*] Flea Fli 10 (K&B 18 with trike gear)[*] Brushfire 10 (Webra Speed 12 RE with pipe & trike gear)
[/ul]
I've been doing a little project planning lately...

David.

buzzard bait

Radios today are so light that I think the 39 inch version would do great with a Fox .15BB or Magnum XLS .15;, even OS .15 LA or TT .18 would surely be fine for most pilots. The list above would be great for the +10 version, and you can add the Enya 30SS and probably even the OS .25 LA, if lightly built. I think planes this size are much more enjoyable with light equipment and light construction. The smaller they are, the more important it becomes, at least to my taste.

Jim

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Indeed Jim.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

[quote]ORIGINAL: summerwind

hey guys,
just wanted let you all know that i will be ordering wood by middle to end of next month for the FF. i'm movin a bit slow here and i apologize for that as i have a few PM's now from those wanting a kit when that happens.
i'm also still looking for engines and whatnot, so i've had a lot of money tied up in that shopping spree

one thing that really gets me though is the guys on ebay who say NIB ST .23.........when i get them they are a joke.
i've sent 2 back now, received 1 that was actually Brand New in the Box, and the recent one that had the flow thru muffler i was looking for is in very good shape, but certainly not NIB.
it has some play in the rod/crankpin that is probably OK as the rods weren't bushed.

if anyone on here has a Rod for a ST .23 (preferably NIB) please let me know if i can buy it from you. {quote}



I know that you have been in the hobby for a long time and that you probably know at least as much about this stuff as I do. Keep in mind that I said AT LEAST! 8>)

There is a phenomenon that has occurred to my engines occasionally over the years that scared the dickens out of me when it happens. The best that I can figure out is that for some reason, the oil that was captured in the lower end of the connecting rod has drained away. The result is that the rod feels horrendously loose on the crankpin as a result. Is it possible that this is what some of your engines are experiencing? How did I know it was oil draining away was the problem? Because I removed the connecting rod and put on both on the crankpin and inside of the connecting rod opening, put it back together and the problem was gone. It's gotten me pretty upset a few times in my life. If you haven't tried my remedy as yet, give it a try. You only have a few minutes and a little oil to lose. Here's hoping that was the problem. Good luck.

By the way, the ST .23 is a sweetheart of an engine and it will swing a bigger prop than the ST G15. However, if permitted to rev up, I'm not altogether sure that the G23 will produce as much horsepower as the G15, if both are allowed to rev up on a dynomometer. However, I'm sure that the G23 will swing a 9x4 faster than the G20/15. I have multiple samples of both engines, by the way. I'm looking for a G20/15 Diesel that I can convert to R/C usage. If you know of anyone selling or wanting to trade their Diesel, keep me in mind.

I used to see a visitor to our Salem County R/C Club field fly his Midwest, all foam, Chipmunk model. It was powered by a G23. A perfect match in my opinion. He could takeoff in about 5' (off grass), go straight up for twenty or thirty feet and then do several inverted spins before applying power while stopping the spin, roll inverted and land while coming to a complete stop. Then takeoff and fly knife-edge across the field, do Lomcevaks all over the place and just generally raise cane. He was from North Jersey and his name was Tom. He was a good friend of another club member, also named Tom (Kurtz - may he R.I.P.). I always wanted Tom Kurtz to tell me when Tom was driving down from North NJ. He was that good of a pilot and a great fellow to talk with about the hobby. I'm looking for one of those old Midwest all foam Chipmunks too. I already have its mate, The Cardinal, also all foam and a great flyer. Will pay top dollar for the Chipmunk.

I have a suspicion that there are many, many Super Tigre G20 engines lying in drawers and not being flown simply because of the lack of a good muffler. Adapters for mufflers are really pretty simple to make. Pick a nice sized ASP/Magnum muffler and make an adapter out of 3/16" aluminum plate. It shouldn't be a difficult adapter to make.


Ed Cregger

hook57

My Feedback: (21)

That is very interesting Ed. I have my share of two strokes, new and used. I always tear them down, de-grease and clean off any build up with very fine scotch brite cloth and polisher, dry and reassemble them. I have noticed on some a looseness as described in the thread but always attributed it to the manufacturer machining tolerances (except on the really well used ones). Before storing them I oil them up (generously)with Mob** 1 and do notice they seem tighter. I think what you said makes a lot of sense in hindsight, whether its the lubricants friction or the fact that on some level the lubricant does fill the void within the parts machined tolerance. Not entirely similar to the phenomenon that you described, but close enough to make yours entirely plausible IMO. Always learning is always flying, or is always flying always learning?
Mark
AMA 63845

summerwind

ED,

that made a lot of sense to me and you are 100% right. the rod/journal needs oil to be present.
since coming back to the hobby 2-3 years ago from a 15 year layoff, the ol memory has some definate cobwebs to go through to remind myself that i did clean engines once in a while where i would see play that was suspect, but indeed was fine after oiling.
the ST 23 uses a non bushed rod so it may be normal.
the reason i felt it was like you said, after an acetone wash which strips all the oil away, it had a noticeacle click that went away with oiling, and the engine has excellent compression. what i need to do is run it and see what it gives on an 8x6 which is perfect for this engine.
my NIB 23 has some play too, but not nearly as much which may change after it's been broken in.

the one in question may be fine, but what i do remember is that when the piston is stopped between TDC and BDC, the play can be felt through the prop as it will rock back and forth around an 1/8" at the tip, and seeings how you know at least more than me i believe, is that normal?