Hey Guys,

I'm wondering why I can't use TITEBOND II, or III for my balsa 1/2a's? It is the ultimate wood glue and the III is h20 proof? Any advice on glues, other than CA's would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Bob

Yes Bob you can us it in fact you shoud. I use titebond and other wood glues alike in 60 size planes, in fact all my planes.


Good luck Jake

Just a note about Titebond and similar wood glues. The real test is when you have a bad landing needing repairs. Inspecting the glue joints can tell you a lot. Some of these glues will actually crack because they dry brittle. A very simple test I use to evaluate a new bottle of wood glue is to place a smear about 1 to 2 inches across on a piece of waxed paper and let it air dry for at least a day or two.
Then check if it bends and cracks or bends and is flexible. I like to use the flexible ones for best long term results. You will be surprised at the results you get if you round up the bottles of glue that you have and try this test.
Cheers
Dan

Bob,

With white glues and with air dry adhesives like Ambroid, you should double cement for the best joint. That is, apply a very thin coat to each surface and let it penetrate the wood, then another thin coat to one surface and make the joint. Light clamping or weighting the parts to hold them together helps. It is not necessary for white glue, but it provides a lighter joint.

The most important thing to remember is to make a good mating surface. The joint should be a tight fit BEFORE the glue is applied. Glue should NOT be used as a means of compensating for a poor joint.

White glue is NOT good where two pieces of plywood (or ply to hardwood...as in motor mounts) are joined. The air dries VERY slowly on ply. Epoxy is much better there.

Dan's point about brittle vs flexible is a valid one. Back in the fifties I used Elmer's Glue-All to build CL planes. Problem with its flexibility was that you could not sand it very well. Use a damp cloth and wipe excess glue off anything that needs painting.

Aliphatic resins like Titebond are usually firm enough to sand. Note that Elmer's Glue-All now comes in many types (I don't know the differences) but their "Carpenter's Glue" works fine. Any of the Titebond's seem to work. You don't need water proof nor the dark color for dark woods. If you already have Titebond II or III, by all means, use it.

BTW, when aliphatic resin glues became available, many of us switched from white glue to it because it sets faster and sands better. I think Franklin's Titebond was the first.

It may be that ALL white glue is now aliphatic, not sure. Dan's test seems like a good way to go. Guess I'd better test my glues. [X(]

Good luck


George