YES!!!!!

Today has been Aldis Sight day. A little bit of brass tubing, some nuts and bolts, and Bingo! One Aldis gun sight.
It's getting there!
Steve

congratulations very good model

please for you get original wood color for make wing strut which color you used......i think it must be protect from fuel (methanol+sintetic oil) please can you say to me the procedure to paint

Thanks Avionette.
I use latex wall paint for my colors. Then I use clear polyurathane varnish to fuel proof.
For natural wood parts, I use a stain to get the color and spar varnish to get the gloss and to fuel proof.
Steve

When I did my cockpit, I didn't do the aileron horn because it was under the seat and couldn't be seen. Well, with the light window for the instrument panel cut out, you can see under the seat
So, this morning I added the horn and rigging for the ailerons. Also, I started working on the cockpit coming(not sure how to spell that).
Steve

I did some experimenting with the PC10 color. The chip I got from Replicraft is a dark green. So I decided to use the formula in "SE5a in Action", thinking it would be more brown. 1 part lamp black to 250 parts yellow ochre(iron oxide). Soot and rust should be brown, right? Wrong. the color is a perfect match for the Replicraft chip. Dark Green. SO, that's that. the plane will be dark green.
Steve

hallo!

can i use for natural wood parts an impregnate wood color and spray polyuratane clear color?

Hi Avionette.
I'm not sure that I understand your question. Polyurethane can be used to seal and fuelproof many surfaces. I have used it over natural wood, water based stain, oil based stain, latex paint, and oil based paint. Let us know what you're trying to do, and I'm sure someone here can help.
Steve

Hallo sorry if my englysh is not good i'll try to write better

I have to build a pete'n poke airmodel from great planes company and se5a from dinaflyte company and i'd like get the wing strut whit original wood color.
I have to my home spray fuelproof clear and oil based stain or oil based paint so before i use wood stain and then I use clear spray fuelproof to get the strut fuel resistant ......... is it right?

bye from italy

Hi Avionette :
Yes, you can do it the way you just said or just spray it on the wood with no stain if you want to.
You can also paint them with epoxy thined with alcohol if you want to but the spray will be easier I imagine.

SEEYA, TIM

Hi Tim. I've been visiting your build every day, but for some reason, my browser seems to be stuck on page 23
Steve

Steve you are funny !

I have been working on it but havnt posted lately.

I have several pictures that I am ready to post. I might do it tonight.

I put a Ram Machine gun sound on it. It's pretty loud but I dont know if it's loud enough and it isnt as clear as I would like but it's alright.

I just have some exstreamly small little things to do now and I am ready to attack the scale exhaust I want.

And that will be it !!!

Have you ever put a scale exhaust like the one for your Se5a and my Bristol ? Im am worried that it will choke down the engine so I plan on making it and tring it on a test stand first before fling it.

I want it to go down the whole side of the fuselage behind the cockpit.


SEEYA, TIM

Ah, the scale exhaust. I haven't gotten that far yet. It has to be scale, if at all possible. I'm going to try making it out of brass tubing, with high temp silver solder. You are right about testing it out first. Back pressure will be the deciding issue. The SE5 at 1/6 scale has a 1/2" diameter pipe, so I hope it will be enough. Has anyone else used scale exhaust? Any help will be much appreciated.
Steve

Steve,
I have taken a couple shots at building my own mufflers, ie., scale exhaust systems. IIRC you will be using a four-stroke engine. Their exhaust runs hotter than a 2-cycle. I "silver soldered" an exhaust for a Curtiss A-12 with Enya VT-240. It completely fell apart the first time I opened the throttle above idle. I don't know the temp. rating of the I used solder; one of my friends gave it to me. I ended up with a lot of screwed joints. I did a lot of work to build the mufflers and scale exhaust on my HS-129 (2-stroke engines). All the prototyping was done with steel sheet metal and all joints were fastened with sheet metal screws and then soldered. After I got the desired results another friend in the sheet metal business welded copies out of aluminum. During testing I set up a manometer to measure back pressure/tank pressure and used a noise meter at established locations. I experimented until I matched the back pressure from the factory muffler and actually got it a little quieter. Noise reduction was a real issue and I did not make any real progress until I followed the methods in an old MAN article written by a European. Must be a really old article because there were no color photographs of ARF's and there were--heaven forbid--mathematical equations!! I would be glad to copy and mail it to you. The 1/2" pipes probably won't be a restriction--and you could always use both of them. Noise levels are restricted in the FAI rules.
Chuck

Steve and Chuck :

This is a PDF file of the way a German guy did it but it is in German. You can still read the pictures though.

He brazed his and actually a nice guy "Don Carol" that sent this to me said that the first attempt just burned up so Im thinking for the first couple of inches we may need to use a regular header pipe and go on from there.

http://www.blackwaters.ch/downloads/bristolreview.pdf

Anyway Im thinking of brazing mine also.

Here is a picture of another I found and the way I was thinking of doing it right out of the head which I dont think will work now.

SEEYA, TIM

Hi Chuck. Thanks for the info.I would like a copy of the noise article. I'm hoping that high temp solder will work, but I doubt that it will. I may have to learn how braze small stuff.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the link. It's nice to see that it can be done. Do you know where I can get small brazeing rod. The ones I have are almost as large as the tubing I'll use.
Your Bristol looks fantastic. I can't wait to see the final pictures. I can almost hear it running now.
Steve

Steve :

I have some but dont remember where I got them, I've had them so long, but if you will PM me your address I can break a few of them and mail them to you.

I have some with 5% silver and the other's are regular brazing rod's. I just need to show them to my brother-in-law so he can show me the difference. He messes with that stuff more than me and he can tell by looking at them and I cant tell.

I'll send you a few of each, marked ofcourse.

SEEYA, TIM

Chuck :
Does that man give tips on how he made his exhaust ? I'm not really worried with how loud it is, I just want it to look good and work.
But if he gives tips on how he made his and if you dont mind could you send me a copy too?

I just want to see several different way's before I actually try. I do have something in my mind that I think will work but it never hurt's to have other way's in front of you.

If it is just tips on makeing the exhaust quieter I really dont need it.

Would you just Email it or do you want us to PM you with our addresses ?

THANKS, TIM

Tim,
the article was about making a quiet exhaust which is a requirement in most of Europe. The article presented design parameters, not techniques for actually fabricating mufflers. Most of it assumed a cylindrical canister on the exhaust side of the engine. It's too long to scan; if you want a copy, PM me your address.
Chuck

Chuck :

Thanks very much but I guess I dont really need it, I am just looking at different ways of making the exhaust.

Actually I think I will just go ahead and try this way I have in my head. but thank you very much for the trouble you are willing to go through.

Hey Guy's :

I drew a scetch bellow and I think I can do this but I need a 90 degree elbow for my Saito .91 to make it work (This is where it will burn through Copper or Brass) and even then I have to figure out the best way to connect it to the Muffler Chamber so it will be removable.
I'm thinking of a rubber grommit under each corner for flex and vibration.

It will be a 12 cylinder exhaust but my drawing would only go for an 8.

What do you guy's think ?

SEEYA, TIM

Tim, that looks like a good plan to me. I would put a piece of silicone exhaust extension between the engine and muffler can. That's where vibration will break something.
Steve

Tim, Either Macs or Bisson mufflers makes elbows to go in the four cycle engines; check their websites.

Steve :
I agree but I dont know if the silicone hose will handle the heat.
I called Aerotrend and they said that they didnt think their hoses could handle the 4 stroke exhaust.
Do you think I may have talked to an idiot ? I hope so because that would sure solve the major problem of connecting the header to the muffler chamber.

Your rod's are in the mail.
The 1/16th rods are 18% silver and the 3/32th rods are 5% silver.
I sent some flux also. My brother said we should use that for a much better weld.

R8893 :
Thank's, I'll try and do a search tonight but Horrizon may have them, I know Tower's has them for OS and Magnum but they arnt the same thread as Saito.

SEEYA GUY'S , TIM

I've been working on the access cover for the Vickers. I thought about vacu-forming the parts, but since I've never done that, I just stuck with aluminum. And, besides, aluminum looks so much like...Aluminum! The air scoop over the gun was used by American squadrons for extra cooling.
I also remade the front sight out of brass tubing and wire. The old sight looked ok, but was plastic and flimsy. I was affraid it would blow apart in flight.(I really do intend to fly it)
Steve

Steve :

Oh Man that is so very very nice !

Great work !!


SEEYA, TIM