fox 35 stunt question
#2
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From: Manteno,
IL
Jason,
I used several different mounts, really doesn't matter what brand so long as it isn't so wide that the motor doesn't fit on it nice. I believe the Great Planes adjustable motor mounts are one of the best to use. What really matters is the type of plane you'll be using it on and how much room you have. Just check Tower Hobbies and you'll find one. Remember on profile planes, you don't need a mount. As for props, I get the best performance with a 10 X 6 prop.
Larry
I used several different mounts, really doesn't matter what brand so long as it isn't so wide that the motor doesn't fit on it nice. I believe the Great Planes adjustable motor mounts are one of the best to use. What really matters is the type of plane you'll be using it on and how much room you have. Just check Tower Hobbies and you'll find one. Remember on profile planes, you don't need a mount. As for props, I get the best performance with a 10 X 6 prop.
Larry
#3

Jason,
The Fox .35 is an old design (almost 60 years) with a few updates. It is a maximum size engine in a minimum size case. Because of design and materials used, you should use a minimum of 25% (preferably 29%) all-castor lube. It will best with 5%-10% nitro.
It is also known for vibrating a lot. Whatever mount you use, make it sturdy. VERY FEW control line flyers use radial mounts. I do not know of ANY kits for a .35 that have radial mounts. The motor mounts (engine bearers) are included in a kit, and plans show the mounting method. If you scratch build, I would suggest you use "standard" mounting practice such as hardwood sandwiched between plywood doublers on a profile or hardwood epoxied to plywood doublers on a full fuselage model.
Good luck with your Fox .35. Many, many have been flown.
George
The Fox .35 is an old design (almost 60 years) with a few updates. It is a maximum size engine in a minimum size case. Because of design and materials used, you should use a minimum of 25% (preferably 29%) all-castor lube. It will best with 5%-10% nitro.
It is also known for vibrating a lot. Whatever mount you use, make it sturdy. VERY FEW control line flyers use radial mounts. I do not know of ANY kits for a .35 that have radial mounts. The motor mounts (engine bearers) are included in a kit, and plans show the mounting method. If you scratch build, I would suggest you use "standard" mounting practice such as hardwood sandwiched between plywood doublers on a profile or hardwood epoxied to plywood doublers on a full fuselage model.
Good luck with your Fox .35. Many, many have been flown.
George
#4
10-5 or 10-6 is best prop. Use all castor 5 or 10% of at least 25% all castor. You can get by on 20% all castor but it will not break from a four cycle as quickly. You can also get by using Omega fuel and adding about 12 ounces of castor. But it will not run as well as it would with all castor.
#6
Try a profile Banshee, Twister, or a Smoothie. All will work well with the Fox. If you use a Banshee shorten the nose 1 1/2 inches or move the wing forward the same. I like the wing moved best. Ebay usually has them listed. Lone Star Balsa has the Banshee about as cheap as you can buy them on the bay.
Lee TGD
Lee TGD
#9

Jason,
You have a lot of good advice in here, already.
I'd add that I consider the most promising suggestions to get you going are the SIG Skyray 35, then the Top Flite ARF Flite Streak.
The Skyray, as kitted, has lite-ply ribs and a hardwood leading edge - sturdy, but some have built another from the plans after their kitted one, substituting balsa for the hardwood to save some weight. Lighter flies better, but sturdy can help you shake out cobwebs and get the feel locked back in.
The TF Flite Streak ARF could use some tinkering for more experienced or more current fliers, but should serve usefully as stock. The front end may be a bit soft for really tightening-down engine mounting bolts. The control installation looks a bit iffy, but does work.
Best with this one is the quite good construction, fast assembly and light weight. Flite Streaks have always been VERY maneuverable models, which may mean a bit hot if you are just easing back in. Go about 3/4" or more noseheavy from where the kit says to balance it for early flights, just to make things more manageable...
(added as an edit) By the way, Fox 35s run nicer and stronger on 10% nitro fuel. Just make sure your fuel has at least 25%castor, preferably more like 28%...
CL is still a physical experience, and a joy! Welcome back and best of luck!
You have a lot of good advice in here, already.
I'd add that I consider the most promising suggestions to get you going are the SIG Skyray 35, then the Top Flite ARF Flite Streak.
The Skyray, as kitted, has lite-ply ribs and a hardwood leading edge - sturdy, but some have built another from the plans after their kitted one, substituting balsa for the hardwood to save some weight. Lighter flies better, but sturdy can help you shake out cobwebs and get the feel locked back in.
The TF Flite Streak ARF could use some tinkering for more experienced or more current fliers, but should serve usefully as stock. The front end may be a bit soft for really tightening-down engine mounting bolts. The control installation looks a bit iffy, but does work.
Best with this one is the quite good construction, fast assembly and light weight. Flite Streaks have always been VERY maneuverable models, which may mean a bit hot if you are just easing back in. Go about 3/4" or more noseheavy from where the kit says to balance it for early flights, just to make things more manageable...
(added as an edit) By the way, Fox 35s run nicer and stronger on 10% nitro fuel. Just make sure your fuel has at least 25%castor, preferably more like 28%...
CL is still a physical experience, and a joy! Welcome back and best of luck!
#11

Jason,
By the way, there is a SIG Skyray (.049) and a SIG Skyray 35 (.35). The 1/2A size is a sheet wing model with radial engine mount.
My Skyray 35 is basicly the kit with a modified wing. I used balsa ribs in both the full rib and half rib positions as recommended by a top flyer on one of the other sites. Now I have a whole bunch of plywood rib templates for the next one.
The Skyray 35 has full-size plans which allows you to either build another one from scratch or make replacement parts when (not if) you crash. Some models only have an isometric construction drawing to show you how to assemble it. If you build that type, trace around all the parts on back of the plans (or another sheet) so you can make replacement parts.
There is/was a video titled, "Introduction to Control Line" that shows how to build and fly both the Skyray and Skyray 35. It MAY be available from SIG. You might ask at your local hobby shop or ask some flyers in your area about it. Since you are relatively new to CL, I would highly recommend it.
George
George
By the way, there is a SIG Skyray (.049) and a SIG Skyray 35 (.35). The 1/2A size is a sheet wing model with radial engine mount.
My Skyray 35 is basicly the kit with a modified wing. I used balsa ribs in both the full rib and half rib positions as recommended by a top flyer on one of the other sites. Now I have a whole bunch of plywood rib templates for the next one.
The Skyray 35 has full-size plans which allows you to either build another one from scratch or make replacement parts when (not if) you crash. Some models only have an isometric construction drawing to show you how to assemble it. If you build that type, trace around all the parts on back of the plans (or another sheet) so you can make replacement parts.
There is/was a video titled, "Introduction to Control Line" that shows how to build and fly both the Skyray and Skyray 35. It MAY be available from SIG. You might ask at your local hobby shop or ask some flyers in your area about it. Since you are relatively new to CL, I would highly recommend it.
George
George



