Get a prop balancer and trim that oversized prop until it produces the right rpm. It's actually very simple. And it's safe to do if you take your time and make sure of the balance.

Doesn't Tower ship to Canada? It might be as simple as clicking at the top of the page after entering props in the search argument area.

George

Ok guys I got one on the way...But I want to get a few extras what would be the best size.

Almost anything that engine will start and run with should fly that plane in the pics. The prop that was on the engine looked sufficient.

For the setup you have, a 6x3 would probably be best. I have some Sure Starts that came on a RTF plastic that had 6x3 props installed. The props are flexible and are referred to as "rubber ducky" props by some...but they work well.

You can go with a smaller prop, but if you go smaller than a 5x4 you will have to reset the ball-socket more often, especially if you use more than 25% nitro. I like a 6x3 on mine.

George

Well it took a wile to take her out and try to fly her, not much time between school and work. But as my luck has been going with this plane I had more problems, now it seems I am getting to much air in the line and the engine keeps sputtering. So I was going to take a steel threaded outlet off an old T-maxx tank and mount it to the the outside bottom of the tank. Dose anyone know if this will work, or should I just starting finding metals to build a tank from scratch.

Engine sputtering... too rich...but with the fuel tank mounted that high, it will syphon fuel into the engine. Get a litrtle 3/4 ounce or one ounce shampoo bottle from the motel... the kind you get each night you stay... drill two holes in the cap for the tubes, and put in a brass or plastic tube for the engine fuel [that ends inside at the rear right hand side of the bottom of the bottle, and the engine end stops about 1/4" outside the tank, for the fuel line to attach.] and another tube for the vent [with one end at the top inside of the tank, and the other end which ends above the tank outside.] Mount the tank center line level with the center of the engine crank case. When all that is done, remove the tank and put some silicone caluk or 'Goop' on the bottle threads and screw the cap on, then put some caulk or 'Goop' on the cap where the tubes come out. Adjust the fuel pick-up line to the bottom right, and the vent to the top. Let that dry for a day or two, then mount the tank so the fuel pick-up line is to the right side of the bottom and the vent is to the top, and the center line of the tank is level to the center of the crank case. You might have to cut a hole in the wing and build a box there for the tank. Sometimes a smaller, shorter tank will fit between the wing and the engine. I think that's why the metal tanks we use to buy had the fuel tube come out the top of the tank. You could do that with the plastic bottle too. Both the fuel and vent tubes could come out the top. We use to take a 1/2" piece of fuel line and cut it at a 45 degree angle and stick that on the vent, slant facing forward to catch the wind and pressurize the tank a little, to help the fuel to flow to the engine more steady. Good luck !!

If anyone needs free c/l plans, try here...

http://uk.geocities.com/[email protected]/_cat001.html

Plans are in sectional .jpg format unfortunately, but with a little trial and error you can print them out and glue them together.

There are lots of plans here.

http://uk.geocities.com/[email protected]/_cat001.html

Oops wrong url, I meant to post this one.

http://www.benbucklevintage.com/shop...ebfc5bf965c3d3

There is an eBay store that has lots of Cox related items called Zenalook. They are in B.C. Also,check the Freeflight and Controlline category on Ebay-it is a treasure trove-tanks, handles lines and anything else you can think of. Be sure to turn on the "Include Store Inventory" option on the left side of the search page and hang on to your wallet!!!

I can also recomend Xenalook. Their delivery was faster than a lot of UK suppliers and have a great selection of Cox engines and spares.

Braided fishing lines made from Spectra fiber and other high tech materials are stronger than steel,more abrasion and fuel resistant as well in my experience. They are available in a full range of test strengths-They do require learning a few specialised, but simple knots.[8D]

Hi- I draw my own plans and use these self imposed 'rules' as my guide. All my planes fly well, some better than others. I have raced, 3 guys in a circle, 40 sized ships that go >100mph! All incidences: zero-zero- zero for engine- wing- stab. 1 degree right thrust. Bellcranks with the output horn facing you are nice to use. The c.g. should fall about 1/4" ahead of bellcrank pivot. Leadout lines parellel to ground when airplane level. Front leadout line angled back to imaginary point on line with bellcrank pivot. Adjustable leadouts nice luxury. Weightbox on outboard tip is nice 'luxury', too! Have fun! ARUP

suckerforamoneypit,

Are you still around? How did your plane fly?

George

http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/...s.php?cat_id=3

http://www.outerzone.co.uk/browse_plans/index.asp

http://aerofred.com/search.php?searc...s=Control-Line

My site has gone.

But here is a copy:

http://web.archive.org/web/201210262...k/telmore.html

Annette,
I'm not sure if I told you but a few years ago I found your old defunct site using that magic machine and saved all your engine tests into the sceptreflight list. I thought they might have been lost forever which would have been a shame. Thanks for all that work.