Great info guys again this is very appreciated!
well to sum things up ~ no plans in box only directions, one sheet with a few pic's and the basic glue & epoxy here.
the only thing i didn't like about the kit is when it came time to epoxy the hardwood (engine mnt) in place. directions state
"measure motor width and change position of the lower hardwood motor mnt to fit as necessary"
now on my kit the fuse has been already been cut for the upper and lower engine mnt. i guess what im getting at is ive would have like sig to leave the lower not cut out.
the reason is to fit a ENYA 20S the lower needs to be moved alittle.well i havent done this yet i thought about asking you guys on what your thoughts are on this. my options are cut/lower the fuse cut out for the hardwood to fit the enya 20S and add a filler
or
buy a wider piece of hardwood and cut it to fit the fuse slot then offset it to fit the engine.
did that make any sence?

the weight of the ENYA 20 S is 163 g = 5.74965 oz
the FOX 15 is 6oz <- is that correct?

Fox no longer manufactures the 15X. The 15X weighs a little under 4 oz as I remember, slightly LESS than an Enya .09! The Enya 20 is probably too much for the Akromaster. It will still fly but will likely be too heavy to stunt well with the standard wing. Remember that with a larger engine you will need more fuel and a larger tank making the plane heavier still. I would lengthen the wing as previously stated in this thread if I was trying to use a .20 size motor.

The auction sites often have Fox slant plug 15 engines for less than $25.00 and steel finned .15 for even less.

My Akromaster with a Fox steel finned 15 flies 3.5 second lap times on 45 ft lines. Pretty fast! I was flying 4 second lap times with an Enya .09.

With a .20 in the nose you will probably need 55 ft lines.

The Enya .09 is an excellent little engine. If you consider one of those, any before the .09-IV will have the exhaust pointing up atcha. [&o]

As Scott mentioned, his Supertigre .11 would be excellent. Unfortunately for me, they stopped making them before I got one (there was no *bay back then).

For those who have not built one, here is the instruction sheet used instead of plans:

George

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I bought an OS 15 LA for my Acromaster kit, but wonder if it would have balanced better, and flown slower with the 10 LA? Also have an older Enya .09 TV that I've never run.


George,

I noticed that all your Fox 15 crankcase covers have a center stud. Any idea what that was used for?

Bill

I believe it is for crankcase pressure. You would need to drill and tap for a fitting. These engines were made before many engines were using muffler pressure taps. Heck, most folks didn't use mufflers. When I bought mine, no muffler was included...I had to buy mine after.

BTW, note that the mufflers do not have pressure taps.

George

I do that all the time. The lite-ply doublers Sig ships on most of their profiles isn't very good either. It will compress down very quickly and become oil soaked much more readily than a 5-ply hardwood. I'd think about at least replacing the piece on the engine side of the fuselage with better material.

I have not yet had my LA-15S in a plane but I did run it enough to be ready for a ship. Easy starting, runs good. It should be good in your Akromaster on at least 52' x .012 lines.

Here are a couple of close ups of my Akromaster's engines. First is the Fox .15 with the Fox flow-through muffler. Next is the TT .10. Next is an Enya .09 since those were mentioned, although, as the last pic shows, it is in a Ringmaster Jr. (also with winfs extended):

George,

My 15 LA will be run without the muffler, as we don't require them at our field. Haven't decided on a tank yet, but probably a uniflow wedge like the McCoy 35 RH on my Skyray.

Being old school, I've never run uniflow before, but I'm very impressed with the engine runs.

It's a pity OS dropped the control line versions of the smaller engines. Had to buy a venturi and needle from Tower to convert my otherwise inexpensive OS 15. Also installed an FP aluminum backplate.

Bill