Going CL with tis R/C model
#26
Thread Starter
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
I see exactly how that works. Good job!
I never built a CL model with the lines seperated by inches. I always kept them as close as possible. In most cases, over and under each other.
This is why I mentioned a "ring" for the two lines, or three lines in my case.
Jim,
Got a photo?
I never built a CL model with the lines seperated by inches. I always kept them as close as possible. In most cases, over and under each other.
This is why I mentioned a "ring" for the two lines, or three lines in my case.
Jim,
Got a photo?
#27
Senior Member
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
I'll get a picture or two. I also have one set up as a single ring. I usually have the lines 3/4 in apart at the leadout guide. and have 1/2A lines coming out a single hole. The more widely spaced the lines, the more yaw when you give control one way or the other.
#30
Senior Member
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
I have used a loop on the end of leadouts, particularly with smaller models where I have used a piece of the CA glue Teflon(?) tubing. I've also done it on larger models with copper tubing. Sometimes I wrap leadouts, sometime I crimp them, as shown in the photo. It's what ever I feel like at the time.
#32
Senior Member
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
I think I see what you mean. The loop is inside the crimp. I've never had one fail. I've seen them done with the loop outside. I don't crimp control lines, but think I can do it on leadouts without damaging them.
#33
Thread Starter
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Fred,
Thanks for that info, There's a lot of it!
First off, WHAT A GREAT WEBSITE!
All kinds of info there. I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to Post it again.
http://www.eicnetwork.com/eic/Home/Home.html
Please visit this site!
A selfish note. You could put me, CFC Graphics, on your link page. That I would appreciate.
www.cfcgraphics.com
OK, so having a larger inside wing isn't always necessary?
Unfortinately, my tail wheel is a skid, as was the actual airplane.
The model is only 55" in span. I prefer the 3 line system.
1/4 scale Bravo! Exactly how large is that model and what are you powering it with? 70' lines?
Thanks,
Charles
Thanks for that info, There's a lot of it!
First off, WHAT A GREAT WEBSITE!
All kinds of info there. I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to Post it again.
http://www.eicnetwork.com/eic/Home/Home.html
Please visit this site!
A selfish note. You could put me, CFC Graphics, on your link page. That I would appreciate.
www.cfcgraphics.com
1 or 2 ounces of right wingtip weight would help, but I have flown some models without right wing tip weight.
make the tailwheel adjustable, but fixed, the position of the tailwheel is critical to getting a good taxi
I would highly recommend throttle control for the model, a model that big would be scary if the engine was stuck at full power with no throttle. I have a PDF copy of my book that talks about the electronics used to control the throttle. Or you can install a 3-line system which will cost alsmot as much as the single channel system that I use.
I have converted lots of RC models to CL scale, using these general rules all of them have flown great...I even converted the 1/4 scale Bravo kit from Sig.
Thanks,
Charles
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Charles,
I don't maintain the website, so look for a contact information, if that fails let me know
The left and right wing can be the same span, remember you are building a scale model so the outliines need to be correct
The skid might be a problem, I flew a Howard DGA-3 Pete with a skid and it wouldn't taxi well at all and had to put a tailwheel on the model
Regardless if you install the 3-line or electronics the system will work
the Bravo had a 80" or 89" span and came in at 17 lbs, a monster with 60' lines
I would put the 55" span model with 60' lines.
the trimming process starts off by taking slowly to determine if the CG is too far forward or aft. If the CG is too far forward the airplane will nose over and require full up elevator to fly level. If too far aft it will be sensitive. Don't cram the power on the first fliight, take off slowly to determine how the model will handle before climbing out to cruise height. Once the CG is the correct location, then move the leadout guide to adjust the line tension within reason.
the Gee Bee will mostly like need full up elevator when you start the takeoff run to keep the nose from pitching over during the takeoff run. When the elevator is effective then you can relax on the elevator and climb out.
Good luck!
If buildiing RC you would....
always install a throttled engine
have the wing be removable
use a starter
if building CL you would (if you follow traditional history)
put a engine without throttle
Make a one piece airplane
make smaller than 60" span
never use a starter
fly aerobatics
The models I build for CL scale break all of the CL traditional rules....I install throttle, make it look like a RC model but follow RC rules with a bellcrank.
I don't maintain the website, so look for a contact information, if that fails let me know
The left and right wing can be the same span, remember you are building a scale model so the outliines need to be correct
The skid might be a problem, I flew a Howard DGA-3 Pete with a skid and it wouldn't taxi well at all and had to put a tailwheel on the model
Regardless if you install the 3-line or electronics the system will work
the Bravo had a 80" or 89" span and came in at 17 lbs, a monster with 60' lines
I would put the 55" span model with 60' lines.
the trimming process starts off by taking slowly to determine if the CG is too far forward or aft. If the CG is too far forward the airplane will nose over and require full up elevator to fly level. If too far aft it will be sensitive. Don't cram the power on the first fliight, take off slowly to determine how the model will handle before climbing out to cruise height. Once the CG is the correct location, then move the leadout guide to adjust the line tension within reason.
the Gee Bee will mostly like need full up elevator when you start the takeoff run to keep the nose from pitching over during the takeoff run. When the elevator is effective then you can relax on the elevator and climb out.
Good luck!
If buildiing RC you would....
always install a throttled engine
have the wing be removable
use a starter
if building CL you would (if you follow traditional history)
put a engine without throttle
Make a one piece airplane
make smaller than 60" span
never use a starter
fly aerobatics
The models I build for CL scale break all of the CL traditional rules....I install throttle, make it look like a RC model but follow RC rules with a bellcrank.
#35
Thread Starter
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
The models I build for CL scale break all of the CL traditional rules....I install throttle, make it look like a RC model but follow RC rules with a bellcrank.
Thanks for that reply.
I'm going from R/C to CL, with every airplane I have that I can make do it.
Thanks,
Charles
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Hi Avaiojet
Like your project. Cool idea and I like GBs.
Have you found a 3 line system?
J Roberts made them as Sturdy Built in an upright mount and a suspended mount versions.
The type of handle is not super critical if I remember correctly the local scale fliers(many many moons ago) used various including home builds.
The biggest key is the floating bell crank mechanism the keeps tension on all 3 lines balanced.
Think I have 3 or 4 of these units.
For your lead out guide-Well heck easier to make and scan a drawing ...........................Sloppy Quick drawing
.025-.05 thick aluminum should be enough.
Drawing not to scale! and in fact removable, adjustable line guide is to long in chord length.
David
Like your project. Cool idea and I like GBs.
Have you found a 3 line system?
J Roberts made them as Sturdy Built in an upright mount and a suspended mount versions.
The type of handle is not super critical if I remember correctly the local scale fliers(many many moons ago) used various including home builds.
The biggest key is the floating bell crank mechanism the keeps tension on all 3 lines balanced.
Think I have 3 or 4 of these units.
For your lead out guide-Well heck easier to make and scan a drawing ...........................Sloppy Quick drawing
.025-.05 thick aluminum should be enough.
Drawing not to scale! and in fact removable, adjustable line guide is to long in chord length.
David
#37
Thread Starter
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Think I have 3 or 4 of these units.
Nice sketch! Thanks for the info and reply.
Photo of those 3 or 4 units?
I may need one?
Charles
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
If you plan flying this model in competition look at the AMA rules carefully, they have changed the line diameters and they have also changed the minimum line length, anything above 8 lbs needs to fly on 65'-70' lines. if you are under 8 lbs the lines can between 52.5' and 70 feet.
#39
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
I wonder which super pilot decided that these were good rules? Line length and weight are not mutually dependent. I'm sure anyone that has flown Stunt can tell you how a model is trimmed with line length and an eight pounder can fly very well on lines shorter than 65 feet. I guess 1/2A is out as most won't fly well on 52' 6" footers.
It may be that the rule writers are trying to hasten the event's demise by additional restrictions. This reducing any hope of someone with a casual entry level model being legal. This will keep the entry number nice and low.
Below are pictures of models that are illegal (P-38, line length 47 feet) or severely handicapped (by Tigercat not having throttle control) and people will not be seeing at any Scale events.
Good job AMA and NASA!
Chris...
It may be that the rule writers are trying to hasten the event's demise by additional restrictions. This reducing any hope of someone with a casual entry level model being legal. This will keep the entry number nice and low.
Below are pictures of models that are illegal (P-38, line length 47 feet) or severely handicapped (by Tigercat not having throttle control) and people will not be seeing at any Scale events.
Good job AMA and NASA!
Chris...
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Charles
Will post some pics of bellcrank units as soon as time allows for digging them out and taking pics for posting.
In the mean while found the matching J Roberts 3 line control handle on Ebay.
Item #260642095931
This link may work to go straight to item.
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-ROBERTS-...item3caf7ac33b
David
Will post some pics of bellcrank units as soon as time allows for digging them out and taking pics for posting.
In the mean while found the matching J Roberts 3 line control handle on Ebay.
Item #260642095931
This link may work to go straight to item.
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-ROBERTS-...item3caf7ac33b
David
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
You right Chris!
SCCA, AMA, USA leaders, officials or crooks passing rules/law to end freedom and enjoyment in this once great and prosperous country of ours.
If they hurry it along they might have us back in the Stone Age by next year.
Looks like we may have to invent the wheel all over again.
David
SCCA, AMA, USA leaders, officials or crooks passing rules/law to end freedom and enjoyment in this once great and prosperous country of ours.
If they hurry it along they might have us back in the Stone Age by next year.
Looks like we may have to invent the wheel all over again.
David
#42
Senior Member
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
If you are not familiar with how AMA rules come into being, you might read up on it. I imagine the rules for scale CL are what the people who fly scale CL have wanted them to be. They are the ones who propose the rules and advise the Competition Committee how to vote on them.
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Yes Jim and probably not a bit better than it was 25-30 years ago.
Charles
6h 20m left on handle. current $32.99
Looks like a good one.
If you get it PM me on the Bellcrank.
One of them has you name on it.
David
Charles
6h 20m left on handle. current $32.99
Looks like a good one.
If you get it PM me on the Bellcrank.
One of them has you name on it.
David
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RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Ha!
Found 5.
3 upright and 2 suspended.
The one with rust is made from steel (where rusted) and is slightly different outline. Possibly an early unit?
Handle went for $43.09
David
Found 5.
3 upright and 2 suspended.
The one with rust is made from steel (where rusted) and is slightly different outline. Possibly an early unit?
Handle went for $43.09
David
#45
RE: Going CL with tis R/C model
Thanks Jim,
Yes I am familiar with the rules proposal/making process of the AMA. It doesn't make me understand their (the rules proposers) devotion to making Scale into what it is today.
Chris...
Yes I am familiar with the rules proposal/making process of the AMA. It doesn't make me understand their (the rules proposers) devotion to making Scale into what it is today.
Chris...