Tried to get on Stunt Hanger? I think that’s what they call it! Signed up but haven’t hurd nothing yet if it was approved. Several posts about the Micro Model Super Ringmaster. That’s what I am building and a few U Control guys looking for the kit. One on Worth Point. I don’t really recall what I paid ten years ago for mine. But that worth Point web site is very expensive with all their resale items. Several or a few guys commented about the windscreen and how hard it was to,attach it to the model. Not their yet on the build. But I have a few ideas, I got from the higley books on attaching windshields. Tried posting eye candy again and still will not do it. AJ

Watch out on Stunt Hanger they charged my CC $48.56 and then $1.98. Had the fraud cancel my Credit Card. Not Good. Cooking today that bird should be done about 1;pm wish I could say that about my Super Ringmaster. Been enjoying the build. And made several modifications. It will up the weight. But that will also slow her down. Balsa is really soft. Have a nice turkey day, or ham day as some say.AJ

Oh I ate tooo much, always do that, started to coat my wing on the Super Ringmaster using Nitrate dope. Getting that started takes several coats to get the wing ready for silk. Decited to wait on the new fuel tank and my Fox Stunt 35 template it’s going to be tight fit. I want to get it right, it’s important, very tight fit in a limited space. Still attach the horizontal and vertical and set up the Elevator. I am thinking about placing my Fuselage weights. That’s going to be a factor. Hope every body enjoyed the holiday!AJ.

Well got the side cockpit panels glued in let it dry overnite this morning I applied ammonia and water mixture and clamped the forward cockpit panel to F-3. Reinforced it with ply, first a few days ago. Still waiting on Kens Machine stuff to arrive. Ordered a nice Five ounce fuel syringe and the Fox Stunt 35 drill templet.Really got cold last nite. Brought the Super Master in the apartment to bend and glue the cockpit to F-3 round former. You all be safe! AJ.

Well had a lot on my plate today. But I managed to start working on the horizontal and elevator. Cleaned up all the edges and applied the old time fabric hinges. Yep I use Polyfibre light fabric pinked edges. Micro Models did make a nice kit of the Suoer Ringmaster only complaint I had was some of the Balsa was soft. And a few details in the assembly manual was way out of sequence. So building experience was a must. Still waiting on back ordered items. Got my 40th anniversary Fox Stunt 35 mounted up on my S-1 Ringmaster. Compression is great. Had to order new landing gear after my last crash. The Brodak gear is perfect and is just like the Sterling gear. Just a tad longer. So you can use a -11 Prop. I like that. Great build guys, I can see why UC guys are looking for the micro models Super Ringmaster.AJ

Finished up the horizontal stab and still glueing on the hindge. Using Ambroad glue. Heard that a similar glue is used on arrow feathers. After I get all 12 hindge secured I will start applying Nitrate dope to fill in the hindge material. Still waiting on my order from Toms Machinery. Still have lots to do. Need to look over my By Slob. I will fly it,when I start flying in March 2024. Got all the Christmas decorations up. Made some Burbon balls Army plays Navy next Saturday. Ya I am Army, planning to do a Hanger sale that Friday and Saturday.down sizing big time. AJ.

Well yesterday I inspected my progress and all my glue joints. Did a little sanding on the top of the fuselage. Found a couple loose joints at the fuselage formers. Reglued those areas and used clamps looking at the vertical assembly and how it will attach goes over the horizontal and offset about two degrees. Really not illustrated in the plan, no top view, but it’s centered and the vertical attaches to the fuselage section the rudder part sets on top of the vertical. Any way the rudder offset don’t fit flush with angle of the fuselage and the flat of the horizontal. In my way of thinking off setting the engine two degrees right and the rudder two degrees right. That’s a lot of off set! Plus one ounce of wingtip weight. All my U Control planes have rudder off set. My S1 Ringmaster has rudder offset, but my engine on my profile version is not offset. And my wing counter weight is about 1.8 ounce counting in the weight of the box I installed. With 58 foot .018 lines. I tell ya something ain’t right here, on my Super Ringmaster. As illustrated on the assembly guide. Kinda wonder if they test flew this Micro Models Super Ringmaster. Stunt Hanger had some guys building the plane, but I never Hurd the flying results, some builders questioned the assemble instructions, just how bad the instructions were on the assembly of the plane. Tried joining the Stunt Hanger, gave them my credit card info, we will not charge you! Then they did charge on two occasions. So I did not get on the web site.AJ

Well to day is Pearl Harbor day. My Mom and older Sister now deceased were their and Mom was hit twice schrapnll and a round in her hip. my Dad was At the big Island training center. They were not hit. Mom was transferred on a Boeing 314 along with my sister state side. I remember the story’s it was scary time for them. Rest well I will always remember you. Now back to that Super Ringmaster. Got my engine drill block and installed it. Started drilling the hard wood mount. The right mount and left mount went in a certain way, really one one way. But apparently the right mount had a knot in the wood. It just will not drill. So far I’ve used two drills and dulled both of them. Resharpened them and the same thing. Got ahead Of my self and tapered the nose just like the plan instructions illustrated. Big mistake. Because now the blind nuts will not insert properly. The nuts in the kit are way to big, but I had a set of blind nuts that were perfect and fit the rails that are tapered. Hope I can fix this to my satisfaction. The drill guide is nice and just fit the rails. Not using the guide would have only made the motor mount holes. That knot in the wood is not good, drilling it really slow. Lots of smoke. Really never experienced this after all the planes I’ve built. Don’t get me wrong it’s fixable. Just concerned about the mount and will that knot fail and break into, from vibration or engine run fatigue. Another question is how long is that Knot on that rail? The forward hole drilled easy and the blind nut inserted no problem. Same with the left mount it drilled and the nuts inserted no issue their. Oh on a good note Brodak called me and said my special order 2.5 fuel Oz tank was ready to ship. I was not expecting it until mid January 2024. The cost $78.00. Well it’s on it’s way and the cost is $38.00 that’s great news. Well back to drill starping, might use linseed oil in the hole. A little lube just might help. AJ

Well I used linseed oil and got out my Air drill and drilled thru that knot. Got the blind nuts installed and applied epoxy to secure those blind nuts. Decided to do a reinforcement on the engine hard wood rails. Just to be sure they hold up and not fail tomorrow I might mix up some smooth and easy and coat the tank area, and install the Fox Stunt 35 and finish up the nose block. Next step is to remove the Fox and build the tank hatch it blocks into the nose piece and is secured by two wood dowels the rear is secured with two magnets. Reinstall everything and start this weight and balance computations. I’ve weighted everything. But I am hoping for a max to weight to be around 34 Oz. And looking for a tad heavy in the nose. AJ

Well today I was able to mount the Fox 35 Stunt and it’s about one degree out board as planned installed and temporarily installed the 2.5 Oz tank it fit great had to cut and size in the needle valve also glued in place the nose block that attaches the top tank and engine cover. Might do a bottom cowl vent under the two inch spinner to vent engine hot air. Next step would be to remove the motor and fuel tank and cut to shape the top cowl cover. Lots of sanding and forming this week.AJ

Looking at the Super Ringmaster plan. That nose piece is nothing like the plan, really high and the fuselage balance point is at the forward lead out wire. That’s the down control, just to see where she will balance. That nose block and bottom is not lining up. The thrust line is the center of the leading edge of the wing. But it ended up about one fourth of an inch below center of the leading edge. The good part is the center of the prop hub lines up with the lower thrust line an so does the horizontal. The rudder off set is one fourth of an inch, and the engine is one degree off set. That first flight might be interesting. The plan calls for a slightly heavy nose. I may install every thing except the belly plate and see how much weight I will add to the tail area maybe place it behind the wing in one fourth ounce increments toward the tail. Hoping for a TO weight about 34 Oz. I will load the fuel tank with 26%caster fuel and see how much it weights. The plan does not illustrate much. Just a few fuselage illistrations.AJ

Well in two weeks it's going to be Christmas Sunday eve. Year has sure gone by fast. And expecting 2024 will be a mess. Worried about a lot of stuff that concerns a senior. Planning to remount the engine and place the two inch aluminum spinner on the Super Ringmaster. And pencil in the diameter of the cowl assembly and clearence.of the spinner. Still planning on a cooling scoop under the spinner assembly, lots of room exiting at the rear of the engine bay. AJ

Well guys and gals I had to glue a spacer 1/4 inch to the nose piece made it soft balsa, The spinner is two inch diameter. And will close a space. And maybe even help the balance situation. The top tank and engine cover will be a solid block of balsa. Like the Sterling Super Ringmaster. Getting close to finishing off this build. Last will be wrapping the lead out lines. Already plan on 58 foot lines. Thumb is healing but still have a ways to go. Slow process in your seventysAJ.

Well last couple days haven’t seen much progress on the Super Ringmaster. Worked on the landing gear cover. And started the bottom cowl vent cut. With the engine installed with the aluminum spinner and empty fuel tank. Placing 1/4 ounce lead weight just behind the trailing edge of the wing created. A nose heavy plane. Next step will be adding weight to the out board wing. Plan and kit included two nuts that equaled just a little over one ounce of weight. To be placed on rib 10 of the outside wing. I omitted that and assembled a wing weight box I purchased from Brodak. Drilling several lead weights. I am hoping my balance will come out with a slight. Nose heavy condition in all phases. AJ.

Well last couple days I’ve been filling the nose piece Balsa. Trying not to use a plastic filler. The Sig is like a Tight Bond but sands really nice. I don’t know is other builders do this
,but I mix Balsa dust and Sig bond add just a bit of distilled water to thin and fill the cracks and imperfections. My next big step will be adding the top fuselage cover, And the vertical. The rudder off set? I will start with one degree. Between the engine off set of one degree, and the rudder, with the wing weight and balance set I think that will be enough. I’ve already added one ounce of weight behind the wing trailing edge. I’ve been reading posts on Stunt Hanger and our site. Never done this, but I am going to try it. I want to know what one ounce of 26% caster and 5 % nitro weights. I know what my Brodak 2.5 ounce classic tank weights. Kinda fun and interesting to do this. Although I never thought about it when I was younger! Lately I’ve been thinking maybe if I did that then, I would not have crashed so much! AJ

Hope every body had a nice Christmas, mine was nice and quiet. Might drive over to JTs hobby shop, my arthritis is getting hard to close my right flying hand around my control handles decided to get a few new ones. I could make them but could order them from Okie Models. There handles are reasonably priced, and are thicker so Monday on his birthday, I modified my two old handles, a Rico hard point and a Brodak lead out. Been using it on my Bislob and Veco Chief. Brought my Magishan, out of retirement, and removed the five ounce fuel tank. Made straps for the new two and half ounce tank, it's an old Perfect tank, but new in the box. My Super Ringmaster had the vertical installed and off set rudder one degree. Just a great cool sunny day. Hey guys Happy New year. AJ

Well finished up my handle mod had some longeron half round material off my Aeronca Champ build. Epoxyed after I cut the tack straight off just on the out side of the raco and Brodak handle. Then I took 1/16 round dowel rod and drilled two holes three inch apart and plugged the holes with the cowl. Now my hand fits really well and grips with out my hand getting pain in the palum. Next test is to try it out in the circle. Looking for a little over three minute flights. About ready to use the smooth and easy in the engine and fuel bay. I finished the top cowl smoothing to the nose contore. Really not impressed how the top cowl is attached. Two front dowel pegs and two magnets in front of the cockpit. Holds down the rear of the top cowl. Still need to cut the engine cylinder hole. And cut the access to the Venturi, for priming. My bottom cowl vent looks great and should help cool the motor on hot summer flights. Now I got to figure out why my I pad went to heavy print! Have a great New Year weekend guys and dolls. AJ

Man it’s Friday. And Bowl Weekend. Been watching some good games. And working on my U Control projects. Thawing a Turkey,and doing a few other things. Had a complaint on another post about my ability to write? Proper sentences and I guess a lot to a proper guy that knows how to write. It must be aggravating, sure glad my out of date I pad has spell correct. But a few words they can’t correct. Sorry about that. Guess I can’t spell. Got to be me. I go in circles, my only excuse wish I could post pictures. Cuz the Super Ringmaster is looking really nice, But will not be ready to fly in the near future. Looking to test fly in the fall of 2024. Happy New Year. AJ

Well lots going on they are having a Ringmaster FlyOthon in October 2024! Looking forward to that. Hopefully I will have a few planes to fly. The Super is looking pretty nice still filling and sanding, usually do a weight check and balance before I cover the wings. Applied smooth and easy to my engine and tank area usually takes 72 hours to fully cure. Added fourth ounce of weight to my S-1 right wing kept seeing it on a wing over. Seven stran lines at fifty nine feet. Winds were light at the time. Hope that fixes it.AJ

Well it’s Super Bowl weekend,the Las Vegas keep it quiet! My Smooth and easy is still a little tacky, wish the sun would come out, rain this week end, had a storm come thru at about 3 AM. Been sanding and prepping my wing for cover, K&S Silk. After that Smooth and Easy cures I will do the weight and balance. The Air Force guys thought me the basics and I’ve always stuck with it. Tho I know other guys have a different method. Been talking to several guys from the Brotherhood of the Ring, still haven’t been able to Join, so hush hush on the QT and very Quiet! Kinda wish some of the guys in the Brotherhood of the Ring would post even a personal message would work for me. AJ

Well I learned thru a private message thank you for contacting me. Your secure. I was informed the Brotherhood of the ring. Did not care for me to be part of their group. That’s fine really don’t have an issue with that. I still plan to fly in October my S-1 and my winter build S-6. Hope to get with a group that is also flying in the flyOthon. Still nothing on that. My S-6 is looking great. Hope she flys well.AJ

Well the last three days have been associated with handles and flying lines. Had an incident about a year ago when a set of my lines in the back of my car came loose. What a mess. If you have ever had that happen you know what I am talking about. Just a balled up mess. Well I delt with that mess a year later. Took three hours,but I got it done. Twisted raveled mess. Bought a new plastic storage handle intending on using it for determining the weight requirement on my right wing. So I also ordered a couple of empty plastic reels. Scissor connectors and another stuge to use on engine test runs. Getting ready for this Brotherhoodofthering. In October 2024. AJ

Well the weight and wing differential counter weight came in at 1 3/4 ounce. Fifty eight foot lines seven stran. The fuselage took 2.8 ounce to/ balance with a little nose included the two inch spinner lite wheels. This kit was a Micro Models Super Ringmaster. Understand only maybe fifty kits were produced. Some say more than that. Still have to install the belly pan and tail skid. Mounted the weights inside the fuselage. Lots more sanding but I am hoping this whole SR will weigh in at 34 ounces. Fueled and ready to circle. That first flight will be interesting.AJ

Still down to sanding and adding weights to balance this SR. Had a set back and wound up in the hospital for three days. My upper heart valve was vibrating they call it A Fib. Thought I had the flu or Covid. Went to the doctor and ended up in the Emergency room. They were great got my heart rate down stopped the A Fib and had to take a blood thinner found lots of platelets in my blood streams. Pin head and smaller. If it hits your brain it's the big Caseno. Problem is I am weak and have Diarrhea. From the meds they have me on. Going to take some time they say it will pass, hope so. Not getting much sleep. AJ

Well as it goes in 24. Been recovering and getting adjusted to my Meds, haven’t worked on the SR 6 weather is still acting up, still cool out one day lots of wind haven’t flown in a year now, still looking forward to the flyOhthon in October. When this weather breaks rain,wind,cool temps. I plan to cover my Super Ringmaster. Bought some parachute cord to make wrist thongs. That completes my new handles. Also made up a table to start the UC planes. Having a hard time starting them on the ground. Just about got everything ready just waiting on the weather.AJ

Well started to do more sanding on my S6 and pulled on the down control cable and it was stuck would not move. The up line was fine but no down. Looked into the wing at the bell crank seemed okay the up line was fine but the down line was jammed. Oh S***. I can be leave this. Looked again and I could not see why the down elevator line was jammed. Elevator went to neutral and stopped. No down control at all. The bell crank is mounted just left of the cabin. Do I start cutting,Or what.! When I doubt give it a little jerk! Nothing! give it a little harder jerk.! Nothing !!! Okay let’s give it the old twenty five pound jerk, Pop! That was it just a pop did not sound like Balsa breaking so I guess we are good to go. What was holding up the show was a mystery to me.AJ

AJ, Donnyman, et al,

Here are pictures of my Super Ringmaster from 1953 now being "rehabilitated" with new balsa and Silkspan wing cover. The plane now needs 2 more finish coats, and a new engine mount for my K&B 19 (eBay!).
The next post will show Super Ringmaster 1954, from a kit given at Christmas. It was all finished except for the final doping...which never got done. Still a WIP!
Pix 1- 1953 as retrieved from the attic
Pix 2 - 1953 work in progress 2024

aaganz
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1bbce4c1f1.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...22bf4b2c34.jpg

AJ, Donnyman, et al,

Here is a pix of my Super Ringmaster from 1954. I built from the kit, covering the whole plane (including fuselage) with some "tissue" (what was it?), and after sitting in the attic for over 50 years, and now retrieved. If my 1953 re-build works out and flies, I'll proceed on to finishing off the 1954 plane after 70 years. This will be a nice accomplishment, and a tribute to my cousin who gave it to me for Christmas. He survived a Japanese attack on his destroyer gun turret in WW2 in the So. Pacific.
aaganz
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...430cee790a.jpg

That attic plane and a new build I take it one is up right and the other is inverted engine mounts. That’s interesting. Never seen an inverted Super Ringmaster in the Circle. Your mount rails I guess are in the same location but the engine case would be inverted on top of the mount. Now your fuel tank to me that’s the big question. It would be located below the engine mount rails, I guess you could do away with the mount rails and go with a RC type metal engine mount. That in my way of thinking would work a bit better, for an inverted engine on the Super Ringmaster! Lots of interest stuff in U Control! AJ

AJ Sun, et al,
The pictures may have mis-led you and other viewers..!!...sorry..... At some point in the distant past, I had covered over the engine cover on top, pending the time I got another engine. For the moment, I just doped it over too, but intend to mount the engine in the normal upright fashion as it originally was, and then cut out for the engine head!.

The mount for my "new" K&B 19 is a different story, as I want to retain the mounting bolts for the K&B 35, but have the option to mount a K&B 29 also, in the event the K&B 19 is not powerful enough for my simple demonstration flights! The engine bolt holes don't line up for the other engine sizes.

My idea is to use short aluminum flat strips (1/16 inch or 1/8 inch) on top of the existing engine "logs". On each side, I will drill 4 holes through the aluminum. The first 2 will fit over the K&B 35 bolts, and allow me to tighten the "flat" down securely with the nuts and washers. The second 2 will be for the K&B 19 bolts sticking upwards. I will drill out a bit of the "logs" for fitting the bolt heads. This will bring the new engine approximately 1 1/8 inches further forward.

I should be able to mount a K&B 29 in the same fashion if wanted, and also have the option to unbolt it at any time and mount a K&B 35! Let me know your thoughts!

aaganz

Ya gganz I guess I was reading it wrong! My build was not the original Sterling. It was a repop of Micro Models. Their only plane that was offered. They are still in the hobby scene, but in model Rail roading. I did buy an original Sterling kit about two months ago on Ebay, you don't see them very often. And the Sporter you never see. Seen one for over $300.00. To rich for me. It sold on a bid fire. Three guys went at it. Crazy kits are high and engines are low right now. That will change for sure! Keep posting and tell us how it went. Did a little smooth sanding on my SR today just about ready to start laying on the silk. AJ

AJ, Donnyman, et al,

The plans shown above in the thread can be purchased from AMA ($13 + $7 S&H) and are full scale large layout drawings. It shows all the wood pieces ....etc...and their sizing. It shows "Designed by Matt Konia" and "Drawn by Tom Dixon 11/89". It is the "Super Ringmaster", also referred to as "Nostalgia Stunt". "29 or 35 Engine".

I hope to get off the ground with a K&B 19 for some gentle low altitude flight...but if this fails, will get the other engines. My aluminum mount will be "shiftable" so any of the three engines will mount.

aaganz

I did a tracing of all the fuselage parts. And realized the similarity with the Veco Tom Tom that I started building. The cockpit is really similar in design, and so is the rear portion of the fuselage. But still has the classic Veco square tail. The Tom Tom was redesigned when Dumas acquired Veco then sold out to Aero the entire Veco line. The AMA plans department has a great selection of plans. I've only bought one set, 1/3 Scale Aeronca Champ. They also offered the cowl and the stock windscreen. A guy still make those parts out in California. AJ

AJ,
You mentioned the cowl and stock windscreen as being made in California. Did you mean for the Tom Tom or the Super Ringmaster? At present I am planning to make the windscreen for my two Super Ringmasters by cutting up a thin plastic bottle, and bending to shape before gluing in. If one is available somewhere, I would buy 2 directly! Thanks,

aaganz

Aaganz. No that comment was about my now defined 1/3; scale Aeronca Champ. I bought the plans. Only plans I've bought from AMA they offered a Fibreglas cowl and stock Aeronca Windscreen. The Super Ringmaster and Veco Tom Tom has the same design windscreen. My Micro Models kit has a windscreen. But it's really flimsy, so I went with thicker acetate and used my heat gun and formed my own. Don't take much heat to get it to form. Have to trim it to fit. AJ

Well I layed the first Silk on the RM left wing bottom side and applied water distilled. Will let that dry and continue the weather is about right 70 degrees and Bout fourty percent humidity. Using Nitrate Dope to attach the fabric and it’s laying right in their. Next four days and the wing will be covered. And ready for Butirate Dope process. AJ

Well it’s saturday and I applied Silk this AM now it’s raining drizzle weather is not cooperating, my final top layer is going on Sunday morning. Then my SR wing will be covered. Applied distilled water on the bottom half, it tightened up nice, when I complete the cover I will apply three more spray distilled water. Then she drys over nite after every coat of water. Then three coats of long and cross coats of Nitrate. Then on goes the Butirate. Probably will have to use retarder, if the rain and moisture continues.AJ

Well our weather finally cleared and I just applied the last part of the Silk on my SR. And applied distilled water. 24 hour dry period and two more spray apps of Distilled water. Then three coats of Nitrate Dope long and cross coats. Why Nitrate. It has a tendency to shrink the Silk to a drum sound, compaired to Butirate. And it also fills the Silk. The Butirate will do a complete seal of the Silk. And make it fuel proof. Applying non taughting silver Butirate will make the Silk last longer. Yearly coats of Butirate mixed with virgin Olive oil will make the finish last. Not to offend just the way I was instructed years ago.AJ

Well today was another application of Distilled water. One more on Tuesday, then The first complete application of Nitrate Dope.on Wednesday. Have to watch the weather and humidity. Still getting lots of rain this spring. Using retarder. To stop the blushing. Using Randolph dope. Thinner and retarder. AJ