Hi all,

I have received a number of PM's and emails about the MCPX and there appears to be one common theme..

Out of the box the MCPX has too much negative pitch and not enough positive...

I have just created a video on how to correct this...

Mine flies really well now and I'm very happy with these settings.. hopefully they might benefit others...

Step 1 - Remove thethree Cyclic links and wind them out by 720 degress (that is two full turns) anti clockwise.

This will lengthen the distance between the servo and the swashplate, reducing negative pitch and increasing positive pitch..

Step 2 - In your radio..

Normal Mode

Throttle curve - 0 40 60 80 100

Pitch Curve 30 45 70 85 100

Idle Up

Throttle curve - 100 100 100 100 100

Pitch Curve - 0 30 70 85 100

Pitch Servo Travel adjustement 70% and 74%

These settings give me a really nice flying heli that flips, rolls, and flys inverted really well without the risk of over pitching positive or negative and getting tail blow out...

Here is a vid of all of the above..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-J0OapW4QE[/youtube]

And another of how it flies with these settings..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9VKasrPMl0[/youtube]

And it flies nice inverted also

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR1c7KKVCYE[/youtube]</p>

HI, does it matter at all what Radio i'm useing for these settings? I have a dx6i

The settings will work perfectly on the DX6i

Rob i thought i heard on one of you vids that you did a mix on your DX8 for the tail... what did you do and how did you do it. I have the dx8 and have never done a mix. If you could make a vid like you did up there that would be beyond spectacular

Thanks. love the vids keep them coming!

Hey Rob, should the pitch be same for pos and neg,like u said approx.9 degrees. mine has a lot more pos. and i havent changed it ,but i had sent it back to horizon for servo noise,maybe they changed it?

thanks Roi

Speaking of the mcpx...went to the hobby store yesterday to snap one up as their catalog said they had one bnf left..........proprietor said the supplier told him to take them all off the shelf and not sell any for 10 to 14 days as the head was being refitted and he was getting a shipment of replacement parts in...anyone else heard of this...or know whats going on...thanks for any info...Dave

have any of you received your replacement grips from horizon hobby yet? I just got mine the other day and I noticed that they sent instructions on how to send back the old pair of blade grips. They even sent a pre paid ups packing slip so I can just drop it off at ups to send back for free. Is it necessary to send the old blade grips back to Horizon hobby, because I just assume fly my helicopter as it is until I have a problem with the old blade grips. Either that or replace the old grips with the new ones they sent and keep the old ones for a temporary back up. Have any of you sent your old blade grips back?

Sounds like since this is a fairly serious safety issue, Horizon would want to get all of the old grips that may fail out of circulation, thus the free shipping label, so as to encourage people to return them.

I'm not speaking on Horizon's behalf, just my thinking on it....

I can see though, that you'd be reluctant to send a good set of blade grips back...they might make a good backup, like you mentioned...but do you really want to take a chance that a blade may fly off unexpectedly and injure yourself or someone else..?[X(]

Just something to think about....

Glenn

hi, yes ideally the pitch should be the same positive and negative... they may have adjusted it for you..

Hi, sorry, just saw this post now.. I will do a vid for you tomorrow...

its 4.30am here and I gotta go to bed.. I spent all night building another 450 Pro....

Thanks Rob, I think i'll play with it a little. IT has a lot more pos pitch now.

Hi, I tried the above settings on my DX6i, and the new mCPX I have acts really weird, I dont know if its the radio settings or the bird itself.

I thought the cyclic should return to center with the stick under power, and this one doesn't, at idle it does. Instead when power is applied, if you apply left forward, right, or back cyclic, it stays there when you return to center. I have to move the stick to the opposite side to bring it back. I dont think this is normal.  I also dont have throttle unless I press the throttle cut button on the transmitter, so I think I have something screwed up, not sure what though.   Is this all radio, or is it bird?

Hi Fellas,

Real quickly, it's running late and almost time for bed.

I love to experiment, and wasn't overly thrilled with flying in the house. The heli seemed a little irratic when flying in NORMAL mode, with a DX6i and the settings in the manual for throttle and pitch curves. So, for the fun of it, I changed the pitch curves to 30, 40, 40, 40, 40. The heli flys much better and hovers even better yet. Similar to a fixed pitch heli.

Of course you can adjust the 40 to any setting you like. I tried 40 first, but I'll probably try others tomorrow.

Dave

im still not convinced my blade mcpx can fly upside down. I can fly my trex 600, 450, and 250 upside down in a hover and around but this mcpx will not do it. Every time I flip this helicopter over the tail just wont stay still. It always ends up on the ground and then I more than likely end up replacing one or both of the pushrods to the blades that always pop off.

Have you measured the pitch in neative and postive? Stock mine had WAYtoo much negative pitch until I adjusted all three pushrods out by 2 turns..

Too much negative pitch and you are probably bogging down the motor and the rotor drag would be too much for the tail rotor and it blows out..

What radio are you using?

Hi Dave,

That is an interesting pitch curve, I guess it is Fixed pitch..

My helis would not even lift off the ground with the pitch at 40%, that is Does your radio go from -100 to + 100 or from 0 to 100?

Mine at 40% would be about 4 degrees of negative pitch.. have you adjusted the linkages?

PS.. LOL.. I thought I was going crazy as I'm sure I had replied to this post.. but just realised it was a different thread.. Doh!

wisconsinken


Hi, just got my mcpx and I would like to use my hitec "eclipse" w/ a spectrum modual on it to fly this with. I fly my other heli's with it but this is a much advanced machine. Has anybody used a hitec and set up with this machine? If so could you send me the set up? I have never had a machine that I could use "Heli" set up on my hitec. I have tried to set it up as a noncomputer setup but I don't think I have it right!

Thanks Rob
I have used the above pushrod and transmitter settings thats a great improvement i wonder why they all come out of the factory with so much negative pitch .

phil.

<span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; ">Hello All,

My first post on this forum &hellip;

<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I just j</font>ust got an mCPX RTF, my first foray into RC for about 35 yrs. This thing is a lot different from flying a big fuel-powered plane around in circles on the end of some bits of string&hellip;

It didn't fly at all out of the box&hellip; so much for them being test-flown at the factory prior to distribution. Once I'd finally found out the correct technique for binding a non-computer transmitter and got the thing bound, it wouldn't take off and hover, but just kept falling over; no stability at all. All servo pushrods were level with each other and the swashplate looked level, but even when launched gently from the hand, it just flipped over and crashed, no matter how much trim<font class="f1">I did or didn't use.</font><font class="f1">I returned it and asked for it to be looked at and asked also if<span style="font-family: Tahoma; "><font class="f1">I could trade the included DX4e for</font></span>a DX6i, as</font><font class="f1">I wanted to be able to alter its handling characteristics and, initially, to tame it somewhat, being a beginner (apart from playing with my son's cheap flybar-style heli, and also heli and aeroplane flight simming on my Mac, even simulating a few RC models, which is sort of weird now that<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I come to think of it &hellip; though a lot cheaper</font>).</font></span></span>
<span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; ">
Anyhoo, now<font color="#000000" class="f1">I've set up the DX6i to factory defaults for the mCPX and</font><font class="f1">I can at least get the heli off the ground (way off the ground, usually :-), though</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">I've yet to get it to hover steadily &mdash; may try lowering the pitch settings in the transmitter to 40 or whatever works, as</font><font class="f1">I want to fly it inside ultimately, without too much grief.
</font>
Rob, thanks for the heads up on the servo pushrods: the pitch on my blades was very negative out of the box and<font class="f1">I had to wind the pushrods 3 turns anticlockwise to level the blades out at zeroed transmitter settings; two turns wasn't enough for mine. That was what finally got the heli flying, though it's a handful and I'm still having trouble with getting it to hover.<font class="f1">I know<font class="f1">I shouldn't have got an expert level vehicle straight away when<font color="#000000" class="f1">I've had so little experience, but<font class="f1">I had only one chance to get one and one only and, being a biker,<font class="f1">I really wanted something which would lean into turns ;-). Guess<font color="#000000" class="f1">I'll grow into it&hellip;

Btw, has anyone found a way of tying some sort of fine fishing line to those cyclic/blade pitch pushrods to prevent them from vanishing into the grass when they pop off during a crash? I've lost two already and<font face="Lucida Grande" class="f1">I haven't even got the thing flying happily yet. Surely something could be done &hellip; tying them to each other, to the rotor hub or to the two spare knobs on the upper ring of the swashplate assembly (the two that they're not already clipped onto)&hellip; just a pair of small, loose leashes of fine fishing line? Would there be any problem with doing this? They come off more easily and frequently than anything else, they costAUD$1.50 each and they're almost impossible to find once lost&hellip;

</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></span></span><span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; "><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font color="#000000" class="f1"><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font color="#000000" class="f1">As for the blade grips which were in need of replacement, how do you tell if you've got the new ones or the old ones?<font face="Lucida Grande" class="f1">I only just bought mymCPX, but who knows how long it may have been on the shelves down here in Australia&hellip; If</font><font face="Lucida Grande" class="f1">I need them changed, how would</font><font face="Lucida Grande" class="f1">I go about it down here? Rob? Any other Aussies?

Best,

Lachlan<br type="_moz" /></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></span></span><span style="font-size: small; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; "><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font color="#000000" class="f1"><font class="f1"><font class="f1"><font color="#000000" class="f1"><br type="_moz" /></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></span></span>

welcome to flybarless gair  heres a tip 1 the servos wont recenter like normal servos on this bird  tip 2  spool it up slowly and slowly counteract the way it wants to tip etcetc   as far as the first post these are settings on the users preferance ! its a good starter point but you may not like it  if your first time user then u wont see any differance in this the point im trying to get by is wether your a "pro" or "beginner" the settings provided by eflight work fine ! take for instance the expo settings in the eflight suggested i DONT like the way the bird flies with the settings so i turned it back to 0 and fly without it sooooo i guess its all the way you feel comfortable with the bird and how it react and handles ! i have read all over about the bullet blades and non bulletts  i prefer the non bullets  bottom line ITS ALL ABOUT WHAT WORKS FOR YOY AND HOW COMFORTABLE U FEEL WHEN FLYING !

sorry gair i didnt read your whole post but the little links you keep losing paint them white orange etc etc so they stand out there plenty of threads about cuttin very small grommets in half to help stabilize the head and it helps keeping them lil dog bones in place in the event of a crash. im a fellow biker i have a 07 night train almost fully customized to my likings "just need a jack daniels custom paint job" but hey the first heli i stated out with was a blade 400 i told myself im either going to do or die  now i have 1 mcpx  1 exi 450  1 1/2 blade 400  1 trex 600 flybarless !  1 cannibalized cp pro 2 "junk" personally i wish  the mcpx was out when i started cuz it is a good little bird very strong a few weak points but almost bullet proof !  stick with it bro it will come to ya  and get a flight sim on the computer it helps enormously !

You can put some shoe goo across the slot on the brace to secure the linkages. That will keep them in there but they will be more likely to break in half if you crash hard like I do I have also heard of people having luck with tying them together with very light line.

<span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; ">Thanks for the welcome, and also the tips. You've given me some good things to try.
<div></div>I'd already decided to paint those linkages some bright colours like red and yellow, but<font class="f1">I have to wait until my husband goes up town shopping again to get some paint as we don't have any and wasn't sure what kind to use.</font><font class="f1">I guess the sort of little tins of paint they sell for painting models would stick to this kind of plastic, wouldn't it? Hubby will have to do the painting too, as</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">I'm chemically sensitive/chemically injured from exposure to builders' adhesive, so<font class="f1">I can't go near anything with chemical solvents</font>.
</font><font class="f1"><font class="f1">
I'm glad to hear that fishing line is all right to use; what with these rotors being so lightweight, high speed and delicately balanced,<font class="f1">I was worried that anything<font class="f1">I attached to the mechanisms might affect the handling, which is touchy enough as it is.

Re spooling up,<font class="f1">I thought you had to do it fairly quickly at first so as to gain some height and leave the prop wash behind before you could expect stable hovering, which is what<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've learned to do in my</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">X-Plane flight sim (though in the sim it's pitch and yaw, at least until I've set the yaw trim, rather than pitch and roll, as would be needed to stop the mCPX falling over sideways). The bloke at e-Flite who designed the mCPX demonstrated himself on</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">YouTube how you should get away from the prop wash pretty sharpish before trying to hover, and that's what</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've been trying to do &hellip; maybe trying too hard ..</font>.

So are you saying that<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I can take it more slowly and gently, regardless of prop wash? And also that</font>even to go straight up and hover,</font><font class="f1">I need to be jockeying both sticks,</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">i.e. correcting pitch and roll as well as pushing up the throttle/collective ... just to get it to hover?</font><font class="f1">I have to do that when flying helis in</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">X-Plane on my Mac or iPhone (though in the sim it's pitch and yaw, not pitch and roll), but</font><font class="f1">I didn't reckon a model heli would need such sophisticated handling, even the mCPX &hellip;

Re setting things up the way<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I'm comfortable with them,</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I don't even know what half of them are, 'expo' included. Also Swash Type, Swash Mix, Mix 1, Mix 2, D/R Combi, Modulation Type, D/R &amp; Expo, Travel Adjust, Gyro, Differential, Revolution Mix; it was all balsa wood, tissue paper, dope, Stanley knives and glue, or strong plastic, strong string and a tiny petrol engine when<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I was a tomboy making models in the seventies. Various electric guitars, fast dirt and road bikes etc., have taken up my time since then, my last few being a Husqvarna WR125 Enduro, a Yammy TZR250 ( both sweet-handling, racing 2-strokes :^D ) for everyday use and a Ducati 750 Sport for touring. But now I'm too ill to ride bikes any more,<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've come full circle back to models again.</font>
<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">
Ahem &hellip; anyhoo, I set the DX6i to the standard settings for a mCPX, but</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I can't 'tame' it for indoor use or tinker with the settings until</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I know what they're supposed to do. If</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I could fly it properly already, that would be different; but as it still finds a different way to crash every time</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I fly it, the 'try it and see what difference it makes' method isn't going to work.</font></font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I'm mechanically minded, trained as a TV technician (analogue electronics) and good with my hands, but this digital element in models is all new to me</font>. The Spektrum DX6i manual assumes prior knowledge, so reading that hasn't helped. Any links to pages where all this stuff is explained to beginners would be very much appreciated, as<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I haven't had much luck with Google so far</font>.

</font></font></font></font></font></font></span></span><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">Cheers,

Lachlan<br type="_moz" />
</font></font></font></font>

<span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Tahoma; ">Thanks for the welcome, and also the tips. You've given me some good things to try.
<div></div>I'd already decided to paint those linkages some bright colours like red and yellow, but<font class="f1">I have to wait until my husband goes up town shopping again to get some paint as we don't have any and wasn't sure what kind to use.</font><font class="f1">I guess the sort of little tins of paint they sell for painting models would stick to this kind of plastic, wouldn't it? Hubby will have to do the painting too, as</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">I'm chemically sensitive/chemically injured from exposure to builders' adhesive, so<font class="f1">I can't go near anything with chemical solvents</font>.
</font><font class="f1"><font class="f1">
I'm glad to hear that fishing line is all right to use; what with these rotors being so lightweight, high speed and delicately balanced,<font class="f1">I was worried that anything<font class="f1">I attached to the mechanisms might affect the handling, which is touchy enough as it is.

Re spooling up,<font class="f1">I thought you had to do it fairly quickly at first so as to gain some height and leave the prop wash behind before you could expect stable hovering, which is what<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've learned to do in my</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">X-Plane flight sim (though in the sim it's pitch and yaw, at least until I've set the yaw trim, rather than pitch and roll, as would be needed to stop the mCPX falling over sideways). The bloke at e-Flite who designed the mCPX demonstrated himself on</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">YouTube how you should get away from the prop wash pretty sharpish before trying to hover, and that's what</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've been trying to do &hellip; maybe trying too hard ..</font>.

So are you saying that<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I can take it more slowly and gently, regardless of prop wash? And also that</font>even to go straight up and hover,</font><font class="f1">I need to be jockeying both sticks,</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">i.e. correcting pitch and roll as well as pushing up the throttle/collective ... just to get it to hover?</font><font class="f1">I have to do that when flying helis in</font><font color="#000000" class="f1">X-Plane on my Mac or iPhone (though in the sim it's pitch and yaw, not pitch and roll), but</font><font class="f1">I didn't reckon a model heli would need such sophisticated handling, even the mCPX &hellip;

Re setting things up the way<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I'm comfortable with them,</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I don't even know what half of them are, 'expo' included. Also Swash Type, Swash Mix, Mix 1, Mix 2, D/R Combi, Modulation Type, D/R &amp; Expo, Travel Adjust, Gyro, Differential, Revolution Mix; it was all balsa wood, tissue paper, dope, Stanley knives and glue, or strong plastic, strong string and a tiny petrol engine when<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I was a tomboy making models in the seventies. Various electric guitars, fast dirt and road bikes etc., have taken up my time since then, my last few being a Husqvarna WR125 Enduro, a Yammy TZR250 ( both sweet-handling, racing 2-strokes :^D ) for everyday use and a Ducati 750 Sport for touring. But now I'm too ill to ride bikes any more,<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I've come full circle back to models again.</font>
<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">
Ahem &hellip; anyhoo, I set the DX6i to the standard settings for a mCPX, but</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I can't 'tame' it for indoor use or tinker with the settings until</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I know what they're supposed to do. If</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I could fly it properly already, that would be different; but as it still finds a different way to crash every time</font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I fly it, the 'try it and see what difference it makes' method isn't going to work.</font></font><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" color="#000000" class="f1">I'm mechanically minded, trained as a TV technician (analogue electronics) and good with my hands, but this digital element in models is all new to me</font>. The Spektrum DX6i manual assumes prior knowledge, so reading that hasn't helped. Any links to pages where all this stuff is explained to beginners would be very much appreciated, as<font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">I haven't had much luck with Google so far</font>.

</font></font></font></font></font></font></span></span><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1"><font face="Lucida Grande" size="3" class="f1">Cheers,

Lachlan<br type="_moz" />
</font></font></font></font>

Sorry for double post. Can't find a button to delete the second one <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 14px; ">&lt;shrug&gt;</span>