I basically took a piece of thick plastic, bent it into an L, glued it to the front of the frame and the battery tray. Then used 1 layer of thin padding I had and servo tape to secure it to the L bracket I made.

I was concerned if I didn't rest it on the battery tray and secure it well, vibration or movement would mess with the gyro.

Seemed to work. Heli flies great, nice and smooth forward flight. Inverted, not so good. Barely kept altitude the first time I tried it and the tail spun around fast. I flipped it back over and avoided the dirt by about 3 feet. No plans on doing that again soon although I am using the stock pinion because I stripped the threads on my 9 pin motor trying to mount it on the CNC frame.

I'll try it again once I get the 9 tooth in there.

Can you use the stock motor/battery with the 9 tooth pinion? Would it shorten the run time or lengthen it?

Thanks,
Gary

I haven't tried it, but I'd think you could run the flat bottom blades a 9T pinion and stock motor and battery. You'd lose some performance, but get longer flight times. OK for hovering and simple maneuvers.

Oh ok.. I fabricated an aluminum bracket on the mill here at work and stuck it on the front of the frame with carpet tape.. Gonna mess with the body mounts to determine the "height" of the new mount and then epoxy it in place. Funny how the frame doesn't come with a mount for the thing..

Thanks!

The 9t will be too slow for the stock set-up. If anything you want to go to 11.

GTX
Hey Gary, I was wondering if you might be thinking about making superblades for the CP heli's. I think it would be very beneficial
for those of us that are new to the CP and are going through the stock woodies. I do know about the other people making plastic blades for this heli I was just curious if you might be getting into it.

Just my $0.02...

Thankfully I haven't crashed lately but for a beginner who's still tossing it around, I recommend the woodies BECAUSE they break.

When I crashed with my carbon blades everything else broke or bent but the blades. I just think it might be a little more cost effective to just keep replacing blades rather than the spindle, head, linkage, that axle thing that goes between the rotors which I've bent 2 times and replaced 2 times (can't remember what it's called), boom and landing gear.

I crashed mine while in idle up mode in my house. Damn thing thrashed around on my pergo floor for a few seconds before I realized I didn't kill the throttle, I just floored it with reverse pitch. (stupid newbie) Everything breakable broke, everything bendable bent. Carbon blades and the floor were fine.

Other's may not agree but you just may want to consider that breaking the wooden blades might be a good thing.

-PwrOfCheese

Also, it only takes a couple minutes to changes the blades, where it can take hours to get everything working properly after damage to the head components.

Doug

It is something we're considering, James. It will be a while before we get to it, though. We're still working on the FP blades, and I'm facing delays with those so we can get our new batteries out (I should have a final sample of one this week) and the new design for SuperSkidsâ„¢ finalized and delivered to dealers by the end of May. Our design philosophy will be different than the new Plasti Blades, though, as we want to achieve high performance with a light weight, flat bottom, plastic blade using stock Blade CP battery, motor and pinion. So, I don't think we'll be in competition with Plasti Blade or Like90 (very good blades), but simply offer another choice made to work with stock CP helis. And, since these other blades already exist (along with the new beta symetrical blades at heli-fever.com, which I rather like), we don't feel there is as much urgency to bring out our CP heli blades as there is for our FP heli blades.
The problem with the stock wood blades for the BCP and HB CP2 isn't that they break, it's that they damage so easily. As others have mentioned, it's better to break a blade than damage a main shaft or head parts, but we feel there is a lot that can be done to the blades before we reach this point. As I'm sure you know, the stock wood blades damage before they even pivot, and that's just ridiculous.

I've been testing blades for another company for awhile now too, http://bladecp.corocks.com. They are going more for the strategy your suggesting but in a symmetrical blade. They are also just a small group of engineers. They are taking forever though in getting their blades out, I started testing them towards the end of December. They are currently making the final products, but will want to do more testing on them before they sell them.

I absolutely loved their final design, the material was SLA since it was a prototype, the final material is pretty light, stronger than balsa, but it absorbs a lot of energy, so I think it will be a good inbetween the plasti-blade and crappy woodies. I'm really looking forward to getting their blades, whenever that happens. They promised us testers some of the first batch.

I totally reset my bird basicly from scratch. Realigned all the parts and tracked everything as close as I could. By the time I got done it was pitch black outside. I had to at least try it. All i can say is if this thing were any smoother I'd have to put it on bread. Wow! I know, you all thought I trashed it, couldn't resist. Only thing I haven't installed is the autorotation gear, but as good as it flies now I think I'll just save it for something else.

I went out to the flying site earlier, and I tried some FF Flight with some turns for the first time. Let it get too far away, and had a hard landing. Think I learned something though. #1 The Blade CP is pretty darn tough. #2 Im not quite ready for FF Flight yet. Replaced 1 skid, and taped and balanced the blades, she flies great again !!! Why do I get so nervous ?

Hey Guy's,
Has anyone tried flyin' the stock woodies without the monocoat on them? I noticed that the damage to the wood isn't as bad as the damage to the coating. Just small chips in the wood but I would stop using them because I wondered if the monocoat would catch the air and change the shape of the blade changing the characteristics. It made me think that rather than trying to tape it closed so it doesn't catch the air, why not just take it off and fly bare wood?

Anyone? Anyone?

I was thinkin the same thing. My friend Randy gave ma a set of blades that were wood and covered clear, but the covering blew off of one. (30 size) so I removed the covering from the other, and sprayed them with clear laquer for walmart. They look really good that way. My BCP blades are covered with tape, and that would make them look new again wirh a little sanding. The clear laquer make them a little darker too. Looks real good... Weather or not the heat shrink helps hold the blade together, I would have to say probably... Can't imagine why they would cover a nice wood blade... Hmmmm... Lets find out !!!

I have heard of people stripping off the heat shrink and coating them with thinned epoxy. The thing you have to be very careful with is the metal weight in the tip. If not secured, think about it, a shard of 1/8th" X 2" metal crossing the room at 1800+ rpm. I stripped a set a while back, but never put them on. I've been flying my second set for two months so I haven't needed them. I have a brand new set of syms and haven't used them. When I get brave enough to 3D I'll put them on. I probably never will use the stripped ones.

I've been flying my BCP since January and have had no problems with its performance. Lately though my tail seems to be way out of control. I figured it was time to replace the tail motor, so I changed it out. But the problem still exists. While flying you can hear the tail motor rev up and down continously and I get a lot of tail wag. No matter how I adjust the gyro and the proportional pots on the 4 in 1, I can't get it to settle down. I know how to adjust the tail rotor pots on the 4 in 1 as I have done it many times, but in the last couple weeks, I can't get it to stop wagging.

So... could my 4 in 1 be bad?

Thanks.....

Doug

I can tell you that I have been there too and was also very frustrated... I replaced the tail boom twice, tail motor twice before I finally got good enough to stop crashing it..

I had a great time a few days ago - went to a park and flew out over a lake, just hoving around about 10-15 ft. up until I started picturing myself running out into the lake fully clothed. That made me want to head back to dry land... Way fun though, while it lasted..

It could be, but there's something you might want to try before looking into a new one.
Take out your tail blade shaft and bearings. Lube the bearings with something like One Lube (slick 50 product) by squirting some on your finger and thumb and rubbing it into the bearings. Then put the bearings back in a re-seat them. Check the shaft for rough spots and smooth them out with fine sandpaper (600 grit should work). In fact, it won't hurt to lightly sand the shaft anyway. The lube the shaft the same way you did the bearings and when you insert it back into the bearing, make sure it spins freely. Any binding, no matter how small, will cause problems with these tiny tail motors. After you put the gear and rotor back on, you might want to dry the end of the shaft before putting the tubing back on.
I know these are designed so that the shaft fits tight in the bearings and the bearings spin, but the fact is that the tail assembly isn't precision and the bearings don't always align properly when they are seated in it. It's OK to have the shaft spin independent of the bearings and the bearings spin also. It hardly ever will, but if it's allowed to, the tail blade will spin more freely all the time. It helps with alignment.

Aren't you using DD tail?

GTX and Zoo...

Thanks GTX for the tip. I checked my tail shaft and it was smooth and fine. I lubed it anyway. During the inspection, I noticed that my solder job on the tail motor looked a little cold. Damn my aging eyes! Anyway, I resoldered it and things seem to be better.

Zoo... I'm still using the stock tail configuration.

I've gone through 4 1320mAh Lipos today. I've been having a lot of fun flying around the back yard and landing on things. My only problem is that my yard just isn't big enough, buy the time I get moving forward, it's time to turn away from the tree limbs. I might head over to the park later and let it loose, maybe try a roll if I feel lucky.

Doug

Do you guy's agree with that video that show's the guy setting up his 4-in-1 with the throttle trim only half way up? I thought I heard somewhere that's it's good for a newbie to fly with the throttle trim all the way up to lower headspeed?

Raising the throttle trim doesn't lower headspeed, it increases it. Increasing your blade pitch by modifying the pitch control links, however, will allow you to hover at a lower headspeed.

Actually, I was just thinking, does changing the trim modify the pitch curve of a BCP? If this is the case, then maybe you're right. Regardless, I just lengthened the PCLs by 2 turns or so.

Well, I think the thought process behind it is that a newbie should learn hovering with the throttle trim all the way up because you achieve full pitch at a lower headspeed than with the trim down. The guy in the video set his 4-in-1 up at HALF trim and I heard him say "...and that's where you'll want to fly it. (half trim) So, my point to all this is A: Does the trim even matter when setting the 4-in-1 and B: Do I, as a newbie, need to be learning to hover at full, half or no trim?

Ok, new question, Is the main shaft and main gear for the HBCP 2 truer than the stock BCP main gear? Even with a new stock E-flite main gear there is a wobble in the gear part that takes the gear close to the motor then further from the motor which not only binds the motor but also causes a wobble. The shaft is straight but the gear mounting sucks. If the HBCP 2 is better I want it are these the right part numbers? Main Axis (shaft) EK1-0266 and Main Gear Set EK1-0238

I cracked one of my blades once, then flew it anyways in my basement, that weight flew out and hit my furnace and left a dent! I'm just glad it didn't hit me! I wasn't high off the ground, but was too close to a bucket, and coincidentally hit the same blade that lost the weight and shattered it to it's entirety. We're still finding shards of it, and that was 2 months ago.

NewBladePilot, in my experience it will actually fly much more stable at a higher head speed vs. pitch. The trade-off is that you have to give it alot more throttle to keep it airborne and go through a battery almost as faster than you would beleive. I would just start with throttle trim at zero.