mdelling

Clay,

Yes, I also find that turning left or right causes the amount of lift to change a little. I assume this is normal and probably due to the reason you state. As far as the drifting yaw is concerned, you can try the cooling mods described on this site. I haven't gotten around to it yet because I have found that a little right or left pressure on the rudder stick will keep the tail straight and with practice I don't even notice I'm doing it. It becomes second nature. Even with the cooling mods, it will still drift in yaw just more slowly

guggie

Mine does! And the speed of yaw is different to the left and right as well.

I found the heli easier to control, especially the yaw and throttle stick, when a short piece of silicone fuel line hose was placed over the spring friction device inside the transmitter. It makes it smooth, not notchy, and greatlt improved the feel. Do a search.

clayk

Thanks to everyone. I did the mod on the throttle stick and that helped a lot. I have started to move the throttle trim up to the middle before I lift off and use the trim to fine tune altitude.

Clay

ohman

ECP666:
Thanks for posting those photos. They look great! I wonder if anyone tried to replace the flybar with other lighter/durable material, or maybe try to cut it even shorter??? I noticed that the original flybar that came with the CX is kind of heavy so if it can be cut shorter (or replace with some other lighter material), maybe that would make the CX more agile?? For those Gurus here, exactly what is the main purpose of the flybar and what "effect" could we expect if we cut it really short (like, 50% of the original length)?? Thanks!

ECP666

Ohman:
I whacked a total of 2 and a half inches off the flybar. It clearly is more responsive, which has pluses and minuses. This is not a high performance heli by design. I think the more jumpy we make it, the more likely a blade clash will occur. The blades flex bigtime with control inputs. Look thru the spinning blades against a light background while giving control inputs. When you feel like you are starting to master it, go buy a CP. That's my plan!

cjg

I wouldn't recommend trimming throttle up for two reasons:

1) the 4 in 1 won't arm correctly when you plug it in

2) more importantly - in a crash that causes rotor stall you can fry your 4 in 1 because you can't cut power immediately when the blades stop. Amp spikes in stalled motors blow a lot of 4 in 1's.

clayk

Good point. I don't move the throttle trim until after the 4 in 1 arms. But it is important to remember to chop the throttle and the trim in a crash.

StudentPilot

Ok..I am very familar with the &^*& 1212, but can anyone tell me a circumstance where a re-inforced 1212 would just break while flying ? This was a brand new 1212 with virgin flight time.

john68

student pilot,

The new 1240 replacement aluminum hubs/shafts are out!!

I picked up one today, and my local hobby shop had about 15 more in stock. $19.99 a piece.

Check with your local hobby shop about getting one.
As far as why it could break in midair, it could be caused to contact of the flybar with the lower blades. I hooked my lower blade once or twice already in strong winds. It wasn't pretty...

ECP666

Check this out:

I had to travel to Atlanta on business for 2 weeks. I had a cardboard carton that my CX box fit right in, so I packed it up with care, tossed in some spare parts, and shipped it UPS to myself in Atlanta. I was here 1 day, and the big brown truck drove up and gave me the box. Ten minutes later I was flying in the office! Life is good!

rmdracer

I got the blade cx at christmas and quickly crashed it, eflh1212 broken. I got a replacement part a few weeks later and again broke the same part. I'm on my 3rd one but finally learning to fly this thing. However, I am not sure if I may have broken the swashplate set(eflh1216). The parts don't seem to snap together and I'm seeing that after awhile the rings separate. The resposiveness is different in some directions and I have been unable to get the trim setup correctly. Still, I am finally able to hover for the whole battery pack without breaking anything so I'm pretty happy.

Gage.

RMD you have the similiar case as me. My swashplate sometimes falls apart. And when i try to fly it goes backwards and to the right. I cant even get it to go forward any more. Well all i have to say is its just a mess it doesnt want to work any more.

Gage.

What would cause my helicopter to go backwards and to the right all the time? If i put my left stick all the way forward it wont even go forward any more. This is such a pain. PLEASE HELP....i know someone has had this problem. I just cant get it to stop going backwards. It wont even go forward in all stick motion.


PLEASE HELP thanks.

john68

Gage,
I bet your ball end links need adjusted. they do go out of adjustment after a spill, or if the swashplate separates. If you are goin backwards and to the right, to the point that it wants to tip over on take off, then remove the left side ball link and turn it counter clockwise for 2 or 3 turns. put it back on, then remove the right side ball link (right meaning "passenger side" if it were a car. and screw it out 2 or 3 turns. Center your trim, plug it back in, and try a take off. if you find it is still drifting, then adjust the trim, or if the trim won't hold it, then turn it out ccw more, until it hovers.

Airbourne in Japan

My Feedback: (3)

hi, i haven't read any of this thread, but i just wanted to pop in and say that i am so thrilled with the blade cx. i 'started' with helis 18 months ago when i bought an aerohawk. firstly it wouldn't fly out of the box. finally when the motor was broken in, it was completely uncontrollable and i spent about $200 accumulating loads of spares which i needed all the time. i never hovered it and i only wanted a bit of fun flying round the house. i got so frustrated when it wouldn't fly, i spent $700 on an eco 8 and radio, but that never got built. i sold the aerohawk and spares for $130 and the eco stuff minus the motor and radiio for $200, so it cost me a lot.

anyway i got this tiny baby out the box, plugged the bat in and was really thrilled to have some fun at last with a heli, having some control over it on the first flight. i will now fly it every day !!

fossoman

Need Help, Squealing sound ,Tail Wanders like something is dragging . 2 new motors all gears new, bearings new, 4 in 1 new ,adjusted trim on 4 in 1 doesn't stay consistent the squealing sound changes pitch and the tail swings around usually to the left viewed from behind.

Gage.

John thanks for the help. I got it to stop going to the left but now if i put my left stick all the way forward it still goes backwards. I cant make it go forward at all.

Thanks for all the help.

john68

Gage,
Check your balance first, if you are still having issues with forward flight. If it isn't the balance, then unscrew the fore/aft cyclic ball-link even more. I think the fore/aft is on the left. I found that if you grab the pushrod between your thumb and index finger, holding it by the tips, you can compress it, as the threads aren't very deep or course. This is probably a good thing, since it doesn't break the servo, or bend the pushrod when it crashes.

I usually end up with them out of adjustment when the swashplate spearates.

Gage.

If it is drifing to the right i unscrew the left one.So the left one should be loooser or tighter then the right one. Because i tighted the left on and left the right one not as tight and thats how i fixed the ddrifting to the right. Also well im a noob how do you check the balence is that where you just hold it up and see if its straight?

Thanks

john68

no. the left/right cyclic is controlled by the right side(if looking at it from the pilots perspect)
pushrod. plug in the battery, turn on teh Tx, and watch the pushrod move when you hit the left/right cyclic control. when you push the stick to the left, the pushrod raises, when you push it right, the pushrod lowers. So, if you have a drifting problem to the left or right, then you need to adjust the ball-link accordingly. Since yours was drifting right, you raised the left/right cyclic, and that corrected the problem.

Neither should be tighter than the other. The two cannot be compared to each other, because they control separate functions. You need to adjust each one separately. By tightening the left one, you are making the helicopter fly backwards. The left pushrod controls the fore/aft cyclic. "fore/aft" is the proper way of saying forwards/backwards, incase that was never explained to you. If your helicopter is flying backwards, you need to elongate the fore/aft cyclic pushrod. loosening that ball-link will make the heli hover, instead of drifitng backwards. If you look at the helicopter from the back, with the battery plugged in, and tx turned on, you can watch the pushrods move when you move the stick. Notice which direction the pushrods move when you pull the stick back and all the way to the right... See? they both drop down. Now, push the stick forward and to the left... again, see what they do? they both raise!! So... If the helicopter is going backwards and to the right, then you obviously need both of the pushrods to be extended and neither one to be tightened.


yep, turn the top rotor so that is it perpendicular to the body, and hold it up by the fly bar. The helicopter should be parallel to the ground. I don't think you have a balance problem. I think you have a ball-link adjustment problem, since I said to turn the ball-links both ccw (meaning counterclockwise) until it hovered, and you say you tightened one and didn't touch the other. Also, when trimming in a heli, do it up off the ground about 3 feet, just to make sure it is not in ground effect.

md71

Just got done test flying the ever-popular CA & dental floss H1212 repair. So far so good. And I want to thank those on the forum who were kind enough to share that tip. The next time I am at the LHS I'll have to see if they have any replacements in stock.

Also learning a lot about fine tuning from reading the posts on linkage adjustments and such. That should really help the fore/aft & port/starboard drifting. Since the yaw direction changes from the beginning to the end of a flight that will probably never be perfectly tuned. Oh well, that is what rudder is for. However I would like to get the yaw rate more even - right & left.

Thanks for all the info here. It really is a fun little heli and I am having a ball with it.

Gage.

Thank you John i learned so much about helicopters this morning. I will keep adjusting untill its perfect.


Thanks for all the help

Gage.

I got it perfectly trimmed. Now it wont even go off the ground and all the blades spin and what not. This is so annoying [:@] I had it perfectly trimmed then landed it and then it would not work.

john68

Eh?

So you have blades spinning but there is no lift-off? or, do you mean that the blades won't spin?

If you have blades spinning but no lift-off, I'd check the battery. Is it fully charged, does it sound like it is spinning fast? Did you disconnect the wires for the motors when you were making adjustments? If so, you probably got the polarity reversed. check the manual for proper placement of the wires in the 4n1.

If you landed it, and then tried to take off, but it didn't have the guts to get off the ground, then the battery pack needs charged. simple fix, really.

If the pack was fresh to begin with, then you probably drained the li-po cells below 3V on yoru last flight, and therefore ruined the battery pack. I have a bunch of ruined Li-Po packs, and some I actually got were bad right off the shelf. I have 2 packs with 0 flights on them, because they are bad. that's $56 in batteries that are junk.


Anyhow. charge your pack again, and then see if it will do anything.

Gage.

Ok well it sounds like it has enough power but it doesnt lift. My flight prior to it was like 40 seconds so it should not have killed the battery. And is it possible to over charge one of the batterys? I left mine on for 20 minutes longer once.

Thanks for all the help.