Well I finally sold my BCX today so that i could buy the CP Now Im sure you guys have been asked this B4 but I cant seem to find it in the forums and I know how you all like to help so Ill ask again. Im getting the CP tomorrow and I dont wanna spend the xtra bucks on another batteryif I dont have to. I have 3 xtra batteries here and theyre all 2cell 1320mah lipos 7.4V Is it possible to use these on the CP?? And if I can use them do I need any sort of upgrade to do it??

From: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodId=EFLH1100




When using the recommended main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations we have experienced very good main motor life (better than any other models in this class). We have main motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.

For those who may be experiencing premature main motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations, improper gear mesh or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). For these reasons you MUST follow the power system configurations recommended to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:

EFLH1110A - 370 Main Motor with 8-Tooth Pinion:

For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 3-cell Li-Po packs. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132).

EFLH1110B - 370 Main Motor with 9-Tooth Pinion (Included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit [EFLH1168]):

For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying, with less duration than when using the main motor with 8-tooth pinion. Also for use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and symmetrical main blades for sport flying and aerobatics. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132, also included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).

We suggest 860–900mAh packs for all-out aerobatics with durations up to 15 minutes and 1200–1320mAh packs for basic aerobatics and longer durations up to 25 minutes or more.

EFLH1110C - 370 Main Motor with 10-Tooth Pinion (Included with the stock BCP heli right out of the box):

For use with 8-cell Ni-MH packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 8-cell Ni-MH packs. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 10-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES� AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

EFLH1110D - 370 Main Motor with 11-Tooth Pinion:

For use with 2-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. We suggest packs from 860–1320mAh. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 11-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES� AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

Also, we find it is best to allow the main motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.

Tail Motor

When using the recommended heat sink and battery configurations, we have experienced very good tail motor life (better than any other models in this class due to the use of a specifically designed N30 motor vs. N20). We have tail motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.

For those who may be experiencing premature tail motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong heat sink and battery configurations or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). Vastly excessive amounts of gyro gain can also result in increased and excessive current draw. For these reasons you MUST follow the heat sink and battery configurations as well as gyro gain settings recommended in order to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:

8-Cell, 9.6V Ni-MH Packs

When using 8-cell Ni-MH packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

2-Cell, 7.4V Li-Po Packs

When using 2-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

3-Cell, 11.1V Li-Po Packs

When using 3-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is required (EFLH1131, also included with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).

Also, we find it is best to allow the tail motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.

With an 11T pinion on the main motor, they would likely work well as long as their continuous current capacity is high enough. I personally have never flown this configuration, however. I have seen reports from others that it works OK, but not anywhere near as well as 3S Lipo with 8 or 9T pinion.

I recently upgraded to a Thunder Power 3S (3cell) 1320 mah lipo + 8T pinion. It flies like a dream now! It handles SO MUCH better than it did with the stock setup. It is MUCH easier to fly as well...

Yah i bought the aerobatic kit when i picked up the heli but I really hate to pull out a perfectly good stock motor and just stick it in a drawer. Seems such a waste to me so I guess Ill try the 2 cells on it and even if it burns up or something stupid at least I have the upgrades ready to put on it cause I already have a couple 3cell thunderpoewr packs

With a 2S LiPo and a 10T pinion, nothing will burn up, but your rotor speed will be too low to fly well (It will seem under-powered). Horizon recommends the 11T pinion with 2S Lipos because it gives you the right amount of rotor speed so it will fly stabily.

If you don't like replacing the motors to change the gear ratio, you can buy just the gears and change them yourself. If you do this, you should get a pinion puller to make the job MUCH easier.

You can find pinions and tools to pull them on MANY RC sites.

I already have a pinion puller from my planes and its the best 14 bucks i ever spent. Its definitely a tool worth having even if you only use it once. I actually thought about changing pinions like you said but I guess Ill try fly it stock 1st and when something breaks Ill toss on the goodies

Yeah, that's what I did. Wanted to try it out with the stock setup, just to get some idea of what I was getting myself into before I ran out and dropped another 100 bucks or so on it. Of course, once I managed to hover with control for 1 minute, and land safely, I was TOTALLY hooked on the thing I now take it with me everywhere, and fly whenever I can. I fly on breaks at work, etc. I think my boss thinks I'm going crazy LOL! I'm a 36 year old man who LOVES his toy heli

Once you start hovering for longer durations, you will HATE the stock setup, but it is fine for 'getting acquainted' with the BCP. Once you upgrade, you will LOVE it! It is a completely different heli with an 8 or 9T, and 3S Lipo. I've never tried a 2S Lipo with 11T, but I bet it would still be a lot better than the stock setup.

The motors for this thing are only about 10 bucks. I would recommend you keep a spare on hand and also a couple tail motors (about 6 bucks) on hand as well. It sux to have downtime because of a stupid dead motor, which you could replace in about 5 mins...

About the tail motors: The bushing in the front WILL come loose at some point. When it does, you usually don't lose tail control completely, but you do lose enough to make it a hairy ride to the ground. If you know how to solder well, you should float a thin bead of solder between the front bushing and the can of the motor (on the tail motor only, not the main) in a couple of spots to hold it in.

Others have used JB weld successfully according to the forums in case you can't solder well enough to do this. (If you can't do it yet, save your old tail motors, and practice on them after they go bad. It's really not hard at all.)

Just be sure not to gob it on (solder or JB weld), or else the motor won't mount flush...


Good luck and happy flying...

P.S. I agree about the pinion puller. One of the greatest inventions ever made! I remember how I used to struggle with those stupid things on my slot cars back in the day, then I discovered the puller. A guy at the track had one and showed me how to use it. I guess he took pity on me for being ignorant (I was about 12) He gave me that one, and I still use it to this day.


P.S.S I crashed my BCP today HARD. This was my first real bad crash. I've had several minor scrapes, but this was bad. Total damage? about $20.00 gotta love it

Epoxy works nice too. Better than JB weld I think cuz it has a little flex to it. And yah im 35 in Sept and my wife thinks I need my skull examined every time I have a successful flight and come staggering in the house with a grin from ear to ear. Or better yet when I crash somethin and come in swearing a blue streak lol

Yet they still love us... aint it great...