I pretty much wore out the brushed motor over the last two months, so I upgraded to the 370 this weekend. I went ahead with a headlock gyro as well. Still learning and mostly hovering only at this point. After the upgrade, something is not right with the new gyro or who knows what??? Full right rudder won't stop the clockwise rotation when I run up the rpms. I've double checked the instructions and things look right. Any ideas would be welcome, or can someone send me some troubleshooting tips. I plan to bypass the new head lock and put it back on the three-n-one unit tonight to see if it still works right. The only thing I must fess up is that I didn't have a 8 tooth pinion and used a 10 tooth one instead. I don't know much about helis yet, but didn't think that would matter much. My tail motor seems ok, but I really wouldn't know. It stops when I give it left stick, and runs when I give it right. Maybe it's wore out too and don't have the necessary power to counter the brushless torque?? My local Hobby shop is worthless. I know you guys can help....I missed my little heli all weekend. ;o(

i dont have the gyro but i have read around so all i can say is make sure you have your pot on the 4in 1 turnd down alll the way and if that dont work try to change the gyro switch to reverse but it sounds like you didnt turn down the 4in1

YOu may also want to check/change the tail rotor motor. They are notorious for failing. Dco

I would almost guarantee it is the tail motor.

Get the GWS CN12-RXC, bigger motor with the direct drive prop w/ adapter GWS H001FD030B, heat sink is like 2 bucks, and you will be amazed with the improved performance. You have to dremel the stock tail mount just a bit, but it will fit in there nicely.

The fin is microheli's for about 12 bucks...

I JUST did the same mod but used the stock tail housing. I think the GWS 3x2 prop is a better option. The prop presses on the shaft and seems to be VERY responsive with plenty of authority. Also, the motor doesn't get hot. I've only hovered in my basement with the new setup (It's dark out) but the tail is LOCKED solid in HH mode. I hovered for about 1 minute and the nose didn't change heading one bit, didn't even have to touch the rudder.

I'll have to fly it before I'm sold but I think I have a real winner.

Motor $8.49
Prop $ 0.69
E-sky HH $38.00
stock tail mount.

that gws motor will get smoking hot with that 4030 prop if you fly for a full pack. a 3030 will keep things cool and it will still hold fairly well.

thanks guys. I messed with it some last night. I think you are correct. The tail motor is just not working right with either the 3-n-1 or the HH. I will attempt to get one in. I may as well go with the upgrade motor from GWS. Where do I get one?...any why did I pay 80 bucks for a gyro? Should have checked here first like always I forget.

The HH is one of the BEST upgrades you can do... No matter which tail setup you have... You'll be amazed how much better the performance will be with th HH!

If you keep the stock motor, get a couple...

grubs4flyn - I had the same problem last night. I had a small mishap and bumped the tail. It was not quite center (perpendicular to blade) and the tail wouldn't stop spinning even with full trim the opposite way. I found that I didn't get the tail rotor perfectly straight up and down. When I straightened it out I was back at center trim again with no problems.

got everything comming but Horizon Hobby must not be the place to shop. Rob, what's the deal with the dremel work?

Yep, Trog's right, the DD motor does get quite hot with the 4030. I haven't seen or smelled any smoke,yet, though...I made a better heat sink on my lathe, and I fly 1320 mAh packs, it does get hot for sure but within limits. I'm still using the 4030, until the motor fries, then we'll see...
Grubs, I'd bet that your tail motor is bad.
And I'd suggest you do put the 8-tooth pinion on.
EFLite/horizon has some info on their BCP/BCPP pages that talk about motor/pinion/battery combos. Good info.

grubs4flyn


O.k. When you remove the stock motor, if you look at the hole in the mount it fits in, the left side is partially flat.

I used a new 2mm drill bit and shaved it round. Make sure the brass ring on the motor around the shaft actually pushes THROUGH the bigger hole in the mount, if it doesn't, the screws won't grab and the motor is not seated good in the mount..

My screw holes were already enlarged slightly for my dual motor setup, so you may need to enlarge them slightly, but maybe not..

I used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut the stock CF tail boom support off smooth with the boom..

Slap on some kind of fin and your done...

As far as the 4530 prop... The GWS dragonfly II comes with this setup stock, so I would think that motor life should be pretty good with it on, it sure has one hell of a piro rate.

Whoops, yeah,I just realized I meant the 4530 in my last post up there.
BTW I just broke one mysteriously--I was doing vertical circles in my living room and I had to set it down hard (in idle up) because I backed it up too close to my leg, and a blade sheared off the tail prop! It flexed somehow and hit some other part of the tail, I can't tell where but maybe somehow the CF tail support rod, and the blade broke clean off at the hub, looks like there was a casting flaw there.
Fortunately I have a spare, but it's black not orange.
I also tried a Great Planes prop that came with my Slinger, its like a 5x4.5 or something, anyway too much for the motor.

Something I haven't tried is the DD motor with the stock reduction gear and the stock tailblade.
Anyone?

And on mine, I didn't do anything about the flat spot in the stock tailcase, my 12 mm round DD motor just wedged in there perfectly, all I had to do was "drift" the screw holes and the shaft bushing hole over a little bit so the new motor would sit flat and flush in there. So I didn't have to make any mods that would prevent me from going back to the stock system or the Dual Motor Mount (I used Heli-Harry's idea, not the MicroHeli dual mount.) And I put a little connector on the wire so I could change motors without soldering but once per motor.

Mine kept going in crooked and that is when I shaved the inside of the casing... It is a 3.00 part....

Yeah, rob, so your tail mount's shaft hole is still in the same place, so your stock gears would still mesh properly, mine would be too tight, so you could be the one to try the DD motor with the stock reduction gear and the stock tailblade...

I just can't see gear drive ever being as responsive as DD!

Jellyson

Did you install Hs55's yet?

Not yet. Probably this weekend. Definitely need to do so.

Do they seems less sloppy? Or can you tell?

The HS 55 is definitely a better servo than the s75, I've been using them for years in airplanes and have no complaints other than they are easy to strip (probably not as easy as the s75, though).
Dave/Choppersrule has them in one of his Blades i think, he can tell you better how they handle there, I won't know till next week but I'll bet they will be noticeably better handling, and for sure more reliable.