I seem to remember someone post how they modified their flybar on their CX2 for better performance. Either it was to shorten it, move the weights, or both but I cant seem to find the thread it was in. Does anyone remember it or know what the mod was?

Thanks

Jim

There were some shorter ones and adjustable ones, taking the weights off makes it unstable and I dont really see the point, I almost buried mine when I took the weights off so I put them right back on

I use an adjustable weight flybar designed for the Dynam Vortex (but fits the Blade CX/2). It's lighter and shorter than the stock flybar. Weights are moveable.. but not to be removed (total loss of control then).

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...94&pid=NDYN202

I pulled those heavy weights off the ends of the flybar. Let's back up a bit.
After I had the skills needed to control the heli without the heavy flybar weights, I pulled them off. I cut the flybar right where the flybar is bent at the ends to hold those big rubber boots on. Then I went to the hobby shop and got a package with 4 collars with set screws and a set screw wrench. It cost about $2. The collars are 1/16" ID, about 3/16" OD and about 1/4" long.
Anyhow, I put two collars on each end and locked them down tight. You DON'T want them to fly off. Anyhow, with those two collars on each end, you reduce the flybar weight from about 2.6 grams at each end to 1.6 grams at each end. It flies just like stock, but performs noticeably better. I fly with just one collar on each end (.8 gram). I'm not much of a pilot, but it hovers hands off and flies great! No pendulum effect, no TBE.
The secret is getting ALL of the friction out of the flybar pivot points - the linkage at the flybar ball, the linkage at the blade ball, the pivot at the center. Use find sandpaper or a razor knife to scrape all the plastic flash off.

Anyhow, start with two collars on each end. If that works, move one collar on each side about an inch toward the center of the flybar and try that. OK? Move the inner collar a bit more toward the center. If you are still OK, you can take off the second collar and just use one on each end. As I said, I fly mine like that with no problem at all. I fly a stock body with the little cross wing at the tail removed (CX). I've cut the body for ventilation, and added the heat sink, but this is a mostly stock heli. And I get over 10 minutes flight time with my original battery.
I did try to fly with no weight on the flybar. No way. It needs the flybar, but the better you trim the heli the less it needs the weights.
For a cool look, get some 1/4" heat shrink tube and cut it to length so it covers the collar and will reach the edge of the inner ball. Then put a collar on the inboard end next to the link ball on the flybar, and put the other collar at the outboard end. Slip the shink tube over the inner and outer collar (so it covers the collars and the inner shaft) and shrink the whole length of tube. The tube won't shrink tight to the flybar rod, but it will fit tight on the collars and give it a cool look.
Is this what you were looking for?

Wnuk... Im not sure if its the same thread you read but someone here I think it was Ndoren put the Vortex flybar on... it has adjustable weights that can slide in and out with a set screw...I think he said it worked well ,with some minor issues in the snuggness of the ball in the linkage...but if you want to experiment it might be the way to go as you can play with the placement of the weights..

Yes soloboss, that was the one I remembered. I have a spare flybar & figured it was time to do some mods! I already have the linkages moved out to the 4 th hole on the servo arms and am real comfortable flying it that way. Time to order the tailboom kit from Jamie and mess with the flybar.

Thanks for posting!

Jim

You are running the 4th hole and not clacking blades? You must have a really gentle touch. I think you'll find that the 3rd location for the servo link works fine when you get the flybar to work WITH you. When it stops fighting, you need less input to get the performance you want. With the 4th hole and the extreme light-bar you might expect to have control issues. You will have 4 blades all working together and you have just 8 oz of helicopter.
These things can get really nuts and if you are good enough, they're pretty amazing. Keep up posted!

Soloboss... that's heat shrink tubing? You had me fooled. I thought it was a carbon fiber bar.

Jim, beware of the 4th hole. If you go all the way diagonal on your right stick, the swashplate will bind on the lower hub if you go diagonal right and up, and it'll bind on the shaft collar of you go diagonal down and left. I don't think the swashplate was designed for that much travel. In fact, on the 3rd hole, I start to bind at the extreme limits of the right stick. Make sure you don't separate your swashplate as a result. Bad things happen then. Neall

Thanks for the heads up on the swash binding. I hadn't noticed it yet but only have 2 flights with it in the 4th hole. I can control it fine this way but can really see the blades getting close to the "clack of Death". I may go back to the 3rd hole yet.

Maybe instead of these mods, I need to get a CP or CP Pro instead. But the CX2 is a blast to fly!

Jim

Yer good. Yes, that is carbon fiber.
The heat shrink is an easy work around, it looks good and it links the two collars as a safety measure. I don't want anyone following my methodology and getting hurt by flying parts. I'm using the CF and a single collar on my flybar. Personally, I like the look. The performance is just what I hoped for. My LHS heli guru is making the change to his CX2 after flying my CX with the mod.
We all do what we like. After a year of messing with various flybar mods, I'm satisfied with this one. But am I done? I'm done when I start thinking like everyone else.

Jim, begin to spin the blades at a very low speed, then gently move the right stick to the corners. You'll know right away if there is binding... you'll hear it and the blades will slow down and the heli will vibrate. Do this at very low shaft speeds.. slow enough so that the heli stays firmly on the ground. If there's any binding, you'll have to back off to a lesser hole on the servo arms. Otherwise, the stress on the swashplate will eventually cause it to separate. If you want to do a visual inspection, just move the right stick around while observing the swashplate, without spinning the blades. You can possibly see the swashplate hitting the hub or shaft collar. Neall

Soloboss... I'm sure you're anticipating my next question. Where'd you get the CF flybar? Neall

A "trick" I use for locking wheel collars down onto round stock (like the flybar) is to take my Dremel and grind a "flat" spot where I want the collar to lock. The set screw has much more surface area to grip this way. I havent lost any on my airplanes yet doing this but then again, they arent subjected to the centrifugal (sp?) forces that are acting on the flybar!

Jim

Grind flats with the Dremmel. So simple. So obvious. And, it's on my list of stuff to do. With the flats and a drop of blue Loctite the collar is on to stay. I have a friend who lost an eye to something as stupid as a flying heli part. In honor of him, I'm careful.
Good tip. Thanks. And I'm going to write that into my Modbar Instructions for making the flybar that I use.

Soloboss, I have been using your setup instructions and they are great. Last night I performed the flybar mod but haven't flown it yet like this. I'm glad I found this forum and the hint using the dremel (Thank you Wnuk). The collars set screw wrench left much to be desired and I wasn't confident that they were on tight enough...(the wrench slipped inside the screw). Thanks for all the help!

Hopefully I can get to the LHS this weekend to get the collars (I only have 3/32 at hand right now)and then make the mod. I'll report back once I am able to try it.

Jim

CAN you please tell me how long the length of the flybar is after cutting the end of the U's off and what those metal things on the ends are called???????



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