I would like to know what the best or prefered set up(motor esc) is for the blade pro. The main motor is starting to go and if I have to replace it I will do it with a brushless set up.

I'm running the e-flite 370/4100kv, with 9 tooth pinion , e-flite 20 amp esc for main, and a gws 20 amp esc and G90 gyro for the direct drive tail setup.

I've been using some older 1200 Mah 3 cell batss. and its as fast vertical as the brushed setup was in forward flight.

Thanks for the reply. I am looking to get a brushless set up just not sure what to get. I know there is alot of different set ups to buy and looking for the best in performance and value.

4100kV w/ 8T pinion is good for aerobatics since it will give very high headspeeds. if you're not in to aerobatics, you'll want more like 3600kV w/ 8T pinion for more flight time. i am not an expert on brand differences, but i haven't had any problems with himax motors and many ppl have used them for years on all kinds of rc vehicles. unless you buy a cheapo no-brand brushless motor, you should be just fine as long as you buy the right kV and pinion.

if you plan on staying with rc for a while, do yourself a favor now and get a pheonix 10 esc. they're a little more expensive than the rest, but features (esp. castle link) make up for it. even if you decide not to get a phx10, at least make sure you get an esc with governor mode. you'll kill for governor mode once you own a programmable tx, and the price difference between esc's with governor mode and without is very small.

also, esc's over 10Amps are overkill & added weight. my heli draws no more than 7A at the battery at 2800rpm 12degrees pitch. i'd bet around 2A of that is going towards my powerful tail motor, which puts my main at about 5A max. remember, if you buy a 10A esc, that means it can handle 10A continuously, and more for a short period of time (as opposed to 10A peak, 5A continuous, which would actually be a 5A rated esc). so a 10A esc gives plenty of headroom for the inevitable chicken dance, and weighs in at less than half of a 20A esc.

you're also going to want at least a DD tail to handle all the rotor torque when you have a brushless main. if you use heading hold (ie g90), you'll absolutely need DD, otherwise you'll burn out motors at a dizzying rate. i run a geared long can brushless tail on my pro, but that's only cause i'm crazy when it comes to tail performance.

another concern when going brushless that i rarely see anyone mention is blades. imo wood blades are way too flexible for the high rpm you get with a 4100kV motor. it feels wrong when i slam +12degrees at 2800rpm with woodies. i feel like i'm asking way too much and they're going to snap midflight. i use cf blades now, and they track well no matter what i ask them to do.

We run the E-flite 370/4100kv, with 8 tooth pinion and another one with an 11 tooth pinion. Kyle prefers the performance of the 11 tooth but the battery takes a beating. Although the 8 tooth is OK, I think we will settle on the 10 tooth.
We run the E-flite 20 amp esc for main, and a gws ICS50 2 amp esc and G90 gyro for the direct drive tail setup.

Here is a video of the 8 tooth
http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/bladecp172007.wmv

Here is the 11 tooth
http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/kbcpp.wmv

Impressive flying by Kyle! How much total time on the sticks does he have? Looking at those videos I can see that my evelution with my blade CP will be going brushless also. Thanks for sharing those, very inspiring.


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Of all the things I ever lost........................................... I miss my mind the most!

Can someone please link me up with part numbers for this tail conversion!

Also, Mr Stacy, could you possibly list the dx7 program settings for the blade cpp.
I'd like to buy this radio and would appreciate a hand with the settings!

Thanks for all the input. Both the Himax and the Parflyer are motors that I am looking at. How is the prices?

Are you using the same motor as spec'd at [link=http://www.bladecprepair.com/man_tr_dd_conversion.html]bladecprepair.com[/link] for your dd tail setup?

Truglodite, which motor exactly are you running for your brushless tail?


Thanks,
Ed G

Yes that is our set up.

Part Name: Tail Motor
Mfg Part Number: GW/EDP-50H
Vendor part number: GWSEDP50H
Purchased from: Horizon Hobby
Purchase link: link
Cost: $10.49 USD

I'm running the same setup. However, I've noticed that even in idle up mode, when I advance the throttle hard to full collective, my BCPP's tail spins out at least 90 - 120 degrees. I know this is an issue in non-idle up mode, but did not think this was a factor in idle up.

Is this normal behavior?

It isn't normal our machines.
We just did this video yesterday. The longer flybar made a nice difference. Kyle did not mention the tail ever kicking out and the pirouetting flips were working well.

http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/bladecppro31107.wmv

I know guys are running the orange prop with success. I could never get it to work right and admittedly I gave up with out much of an effort. The black prop works very well.

rstacy can you explane the ( gws ICS50 2 amp esc ) .
I'm new to this and I have cpp and want to upgrade sometime to brushless..
Thanks

That is the speed controller that connects to the output of the gyro and drives the DD tail motor
Ray

Thank you

i'm using a 5300kV "long can" feigao (12mmx30mm can), with the stock geared tail rotor. still like it a bunch, but i'd like to see what kyle & nick think about it.

seriously kyle & nick, if you guys are going to be in the sacramento area pm me ahead of time if you're up to meeting me somewhere to wring out my pro for all it's worth.

rstacy, orange worse than black? are you talking about two different colored gws 4030's or two different pitches? i have both color 4030's and they appear identical. is there different stiffness or something i can't see?

What I am really referring to is two different sizes. The black prop is a 4.5X3. The orange prop was a 3X2
We just picked up a 3X3 to try.

thanks rstacy.

correction, i meant 4530, not 4030. you'll probably find similar results using the 3x3 vs the 3x2. the motor will still be cool, and you'll get an insignificant increase in holding power. a 3x3 is still no comparison to a 4.5x3 with gws dd.