BCPP upgraded tail speed controller
#1
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From: Pittsburgh,
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Hello all.
I'd like to circumvent the 3-in-1. I have an AR6000 receiver for my DX6. So I'd like to get a speed controller for the tail. I understand that GWS makes a 2 amp version. Has anyone used a separate speed controller for the tail, and if so, which one, and how did you install it?
Cheers
I'd like to circumvent the 3-in-1. I have an AR6000 receiver for my DX6. So I'd like to get a speed controller for the tail. I understand that GWS makes a 2 amp version. Has anyone used a separate speed controller for the tail, and if so, which one, and how did you install it?
Cheers
#4
ORIGINAL: zooman
Does this remove the 3 in 1 ? or do you still need it ?
Does this remove the 3 in 1 ? or do you still need it ?
#5
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From: Pittsburgh,
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Thanks for the feedback. However, I'm still a little new to these terms. Would you be willing offer some more detail, or perhaps you have a link to this mod? I've tried a few sources but have not found anything yet.
Cheers
Cheers
ORIGINAL: orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
GWS ICS 300 Li for the tail, BEC _disabled_ rudder channel to gyro, gyro to esc, esc power to t. motor.
orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
GWS ICS 300 Li for the tail, BEC _disabled_ rudder channel to gyro, gyro to esc, esc power to t. motor.
orlbuzz
#6
taylorcoleman,
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
#7
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From: Pittsburgh,
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Orlbuzz:
Excellent description, thank you!
Cheers
Excellent description, thank you!
Cheers
ORIGINAL: orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
#8
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From: Pittsburgh,
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Orlbuzz:
If you're still checking this thread...here is my situation:
I puchased the Castle Creations Pixie-7P Speed Control for the tail (GWS brushed direct drive)--mostly because that's all my LHS had, plus it seems to be a nice device.
Since the speed controller must sense no throttle (and since the channel is on the rudder), that means I must give the rudder full left before the speed controller will arm. Further, the tail will spin once armed, even if the main throttle is all the way down. I presume this is normal behavior now that this is a separate control.
So assuming this is normal, I still have another issue, which is, when I give hard collective in non idle-up mode, the tail spins right quite a bit. Further, when I put the bird in idle-up, it will spin at least 180 degrees, sometimes a full 360 and it takes a while to control it. Note: I'm using the G90 gyro and the brushless E-flite 370. I did check the gyro behavior and it seems to work when I hold and twist the helicopter (engaging the HH gyro).
And, using my DX6, I have to give the sub-trim on the rudder quite a bit of value...maybe 35 or so.
I guess my primary question is why since I upgraded to the brushless 370, has my tail control via gryo been so out of whack. This hapened even with the old 3-in-1 I was using. When I had the DD tail with the stock main motor, everything was fine.
Cheers.
If you're still checking this thread...here is my situation:
I puchased the Castle Creations Pixie-7P Speed Control for the tail (GWS brushed direct drive)--mostly because that's all my LHS had, plus it seems to be a nice device.
Since the speed controller must sense no throttle (and since the channel is on the rudder), that means I must give the rudder full left before the speed controller will arm. Further, the tail will spin once armed, even if the main throttle is all the way down. I presume this is normal behavior now that this is a separate control.
So assuming this is normal, I still have another issue, which is, when I give hard collective in non idle-up mode, the tail spins right quite a bit. Further, when I put the bird in idle-up, it will spin at least 180 degrees, sometimes a full 360 and it takes a while to control it. Note: I'm using the G90 gyro and the brushless E-flite 370. I did check the gyro behavior and it seems to work when I hold and twist the helicopter (engaging the HH gyro).
And, using my DX6, I have to give the sub-trim on the rudder quite a bit of value...maybe 35 or so.
I guess my primary question is why since I upgraded to the brushless 370, has my tail control via gryo been so out of whack. This hapened even with the old 3-in-1 I was using. When I had the DD tail with the stock main motor, everything was fine.
Cheers.
ORIGINAL: orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
taylorcoleman,
Ok, I thought you wanted to eliminate the 3n1 completely, right? I did that and have all separate components now. I'm using a DX7 with an AR6100 Rx. I'm using the recommended e-flite BL motor and esc. Instrutions for that are in the manual, EXCEPT, you NEED to leave the BEC, RED wire connected on that esc to supply the power for the Rx. and servos (If you and not going to use the 3n1).
I'm using the GWS esc for brushed motors and the BEC, RED wire is removed (disconnected and taped at one end.) You don't want two bec wires connected. The Rx. gets it's power thru the BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) in the ESC. Ok, so you supply power to the GWS esc and to the e-flite BL esc from the lipo., use the y-connector or make up one. The power leads on the GWS esc are next to the three wire lead. The three wire lead of the GWS esc goes to the gyro, and the gyro goes to the rudder channel, and if using remote setting, the single wire from the gyro goes to the channel you are using to set the gain remotely, probably channel five. The two wires on the other end of the GWS esc goes to the t. motor. There are instructions online for the GWS esc, and you will get some with it.
Hope this helps,
orlbuzz
#9
I plan on going with a setup like this. The moving the stick to the left a right to arm the esc is normal with this esc its a safety feature..
Not sure if this is a feature in the GWS.. Also do you have REVO turned off on in the RADIO since you are using Heading Hold..
#10
taylorcoleman,
Seriously, you are at a point here that you may just have to figure it out, but, I will make some suggestions.
As los08 said, the esc has to be off to arm, and you do not use revo with a HH gyro. I put my Dx7 throttle hold on after I turn it on and before I plug in the Rx. (The 3n1 takes care of this automatically, turning the throttle and built in esc for the t. motor to off when the throttle/collective is at off.) Once the Rx., gyro, and both escs. have armed, I take throttle hold off. Sometimes the t. rotor spins a little, sometimes it doesn't.
I am not a good enough flier to use idle up yet, so I have no idea about that. Just curious, are you putting it in idle up on the ground?
You might want to go to HeliHarry's set-up for the Dx6. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4935101
That page MAY take you directly to where he is setting up the gyro.
Edit: Ok, it didn't take you directlly there. It's a long thread, read though it from the beginning.
Good luck, and keep us informed so everyone can benefit.
orlbuzz
Seriously, you are at a point here that you may just have to figure it out, but, I will make some suggestions.
As los08 said, the esc has to be off to arm, and you do not use revo with a HH gyro. I put my Dx7 throttle hold on after I turn it on and before I plug in the Rx. (The 3n1 takes care of this automatically, turning the throttle and built in esc for the t. motor to off when the throttle/collective is at off.) Once the Rx., gyro, and both escs. have armed, I take throttle hold off. Sometimes the t. rotor spins a little, sometimes it doesn't.
I am not a good enough flier to use idle up yet, so I have no idea about that. Just curious, are you putting it in idle up on the ground?
You might want to go to HeliHarry's set-up for the Dx6. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4935101
That page MAY take you directly to where he is setting up the gyro.
Edit: Ok, it didn't take you directlly there. It's a long thread, read though it from the beginning.
Good luck, and keep us informed so everyone can benefit.
orlbuzz
#11
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From: motueka, NEW ZEALAND
hi all
i see things like this but it dosn't say what mhz its set to take?
GWS 4 Channel Receiver
4 Channel Pico Type FM Receiver for Futaba w/Horizontal Pins ; GWSR4PHF
mfg Part # GWSSR4PHF
http://cgi.ebay.com/GWS-4-Channel-mi...QQcmdZViewItem
i have the esky 004 tx 35.040 mhz
any help??
thanks
kris
i see things like this but it dosn't say what mhz its set to take?
GWS 4 Channel Receiver
4 Channel Pico Type FM Receiver for Futaba w/Horizontal Pins ; GWSR4PHF
mfg Part # GWSSR4PHF
http://cgi.ebay.com/GWS-4-Channel-mi...QQcmdZViewItem
i have the esky 004 tx 35.040 mhz
any help??
thanks
kris



