Hi, I just got a cp pro and installed training gear, added an extra set of weights to the fly bar and was given some advice to move in the rods on the servo arms. I was wondering what adjustments I would need to make if I move the arms on the bell hiller head in on the servo arms? how far should I move them in? Also I read a thread about putting a 7amp fuse inline on the main motor and a 2 amp fuse on the tail motor. Does anyone have pics of this mod? I'm not sure what they look like. Where would you pick them up?

I haven't done the main motor mod yet, but here is a pic of my mod. I got all the parts I needed, including the spade connectors at the local car stereo shop. They were like what are you using this for anyways, I said an RC heli. They were pretty impressed and talked to me about it for a few min.

I use a 7.5A for the main and a 3A for the tail, although a 2A on the tail might be better. Som people just solder it in, so that there is less chance for failure, but I like the quick disconnect because I can change it out at the feild, and usually I don't have the ability to run a soldering iron where I fly... I have a pdf on it written by SSG Scott... if you want it PM me with your e-mail and I'll send it to you

Whatever you do... do not put the resistor that alot of people talk about in-line with the fuse and tail motor. If you want to know why I can explain it... but it's just a bad idea that's been implaced by people who don't know enough about electronics.

I would move it in about 2 holes. All you need to do is make sure that your swash doesn't bind. You may have to turn down the servo linkages and make them shorter (like 1/2 to 1 turn... do all of them the same amount).

You can also add super skids for a lower CG which makes it so the heli balances a bit better. www.super-skids.com

I have ordered a set of super skids, can't wait to install them. I'll be heading to stereo shop tomorrow to find the parts for the mod. How important do you consider this mod? explain? I haven't moved in the servo rods yet as a friend that flys says I should try it out first I might not need to move them. Thanks.

Rick

This mod is as important to you as having to spend $70 bucks on an extra 3 or 4 in 1 that you didn't need =). For some people it's not that big of a deal, but for most it is pretty nice. As far as the mods go, I would rate it in the top 2 or 3 for sure.

Also about the servo links... yeah just try it out... don't try to get up in the air... just get light on the training gear and see if it is too "twitchy" or responsive to you. If it is, go ahead and move them in... be sure to re-center the swash on the main shaft, and also level the swash.

Hopefully that is what you were asking for. If you have more q's just ask =)

I haven't even flown yet and I want to do a bunch of mods.I will do the ones that are cheap and save money on repairs like this mod, the skids and the fly bar weights. I'll have to hold off on dd tail, hh gyro, century main gear with auto rotation, brushless motor (and esc), carbon fiber blades, cnc head and TX upgrades until I learn how to fly. If I did upgrade further, in which order should I do them? or which order would you do them in? Have I missed any? I hope to get through this radd flight school soon so I can try to get this thing off the ground. Thanks for your advice.

Rick

yeah, I would do just what you are thinking, wait for the performance mods and bling until you can fly it confidently without crashing. Otherwise you could just be frustrated and spending alot in repairs.

The only other thing you might consider that I can think of right now is flat bottomed blades. I personally don't think they make all that much difference, but they do provide more lift.

Some people like to do the auto rotation gear right away because the shaft is harder and less likely to bend, but probably the first mod I would do is the dual tail (or DD tail see http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5553620), then you will need the hh gro before you get the brushless, and CF blades would be right about the same time. A CNC head looks aweosme, but doesn't add any performance, but does add quite a bit of weight, yso you'll have to decide if it is worth the money for what it does for you. I would get a computer Tx before I got a CNC head, but probably after the brushless. Futaba's 72mhz radios are a straight swap, and don't require you to change out the receiver, which can be nice. You'll want to take off the super skids by the time you get to full aerobatics because they add quite a bit of weight.

I think those are pretty much the main mods. Some people also upgrade to like a hdx cnc or carbon fiber frame, but they don't really fly all tht well, and are really just for the bling. You can see this site for videos on the setup. http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=17482

The other thing you might want to think about is some sort of flight sim, even FMS is better than nothing, especially for getting orientation down.
check out this for more info
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5633484

Hi mrasmm , You have been alot of help and its much appreciated. I have been using the clearview sim I got online as I couldn't afford to buy an expensive sim and a helicopter. I thought I was getting real good on the sim that this was going to be easier, then I picked up the Tx and I 'm like a kid all excited and nervous, I haven't even been off the floor yet. One more perhaps silly question if you don't mind is I notice that when I rudder right the tail rotor pushs the heli in that direction but when I rudder left it stops spinning, is this normal? Thanks

Rick

You're welcome, and that sim will be just fine for orientation, which is the main thing anyways.

It sounds like it. When you rudder right the tail motor should spin up, rudder all the way left and the motor should stop. When you are on the ground if you rudder right, you might find yourself drifting to the left. This is called ground effect or GE, and once you get the diameter of your blades off of the ground it wont be a problem.

You might want to double check the polarity of your tail motor though, because when you rudder right, it should turn the nose to the right, and the tail should go left. From what you were saying, it sounds opposite.

If you are using a stock transmitter, and not sure, you can move them to the inside holes on the servo arms, and adjust the other linkages to give the correct pitch (get a pitch gauge) - a couple of flybar weights also and the Pro will settle right down. This will help you.

Dennis